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Ronin

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Posts posted by Ronin

  1. Shipping: Like most internet shopping, if you need to return something it is usually on the returner, not the seller. Shipping is one of those "cost of doing business" kind of things for both parties if the situation arises. IMHO shipping costs is a "shared" responsibility.

    I have always viewed purchasing reps a lot like gambling. You win some, you loose some (in terms of expectations of the product).

    I think Panerai153 had some great ideas. Photo/Video the whole process going into the package. It is a two-way street. If I sold something, and the buyer opened it to regulate or something and screws it up, it is on them. Maybe as sellers we need little "void if removed" stickers on the caseback. That way the buyer can wear it for a week, and once he removes that sticker there is no recourse against the seller.

    I have had one DOA arrival, most likely damaged in shipping. The seller refunded me. In mutual respect, you could follow the timestamps of the tracking, and notifications (this happened to be UPS). The watch was in my possession for less than 10 minutes. (Delivered at 3:00, new shipping label for its return processed at 3:10). I ate the shipping costs.

    Back to the COSC thing. IMHO, if the watch is within ONE minute per day (5 minutes by the end of a work week) that is OKAY and probably doesn't require a disclaimer. If the watch is running worse than that, a nice "heads up" in the sales thread would be nice. i.e. watch is running 90 seconds fast per day.

  2. There should NEVER be an expectation of COSC time keeping. (Although, I have had my share of reps that are close enough).

    Heck, my Gen Seikos, and Gen Ball (non-COSC) all run 'significantly' fast.

    If I have a movement serviced, or water tested, I will forward along the receipt. (from a verifiable source)

  3. I picked one up from Andrew. It functions like gen, and overall is very good.

    The one word of warning: when CLOSING the clasp on your wrist, keep the buttons PRESSED IN. If you don't and let simply press it in and let it CLICK it can/will jam on you.

    HTH

  4. I agree with your assessment, and you are probably wise to stick with the Rep if you are happy with it and its limitations.

    However to answer your question, "Why buy a gen for thousands more?". Specifically a DSSD.

    1.) COSC Certified

    2.) Waterproof beyond all human limits (great if you are into water sports)

    3.) Knowing you can't be called out and thus embarrassed (if you are the type to worry about this sort of thing)

    4.) A warranty (all be it limited time)

    I do agree, if you are not planning to go diving with it and are not self-conscious, stick with the rep, and your Gen SD (a great watch!!!)

  5. Not to single out any brands, but watches with too many screws, nuts, bolt like things all over the bezel. Especially if they are "decorative" and serve no real purpose.

    It reminds of "Pop-up" headlights on cars (unreliable, prone to breaking, etc). Sooner or later, especially in the rep world these things are going to fall off and get lost.

  6. Ditto what Pug said above, but on a serious note...

    I knew someone who was punched by someone with a roll of quarters. It literally caved in the side of his face. Multiple plastic surgery's later, and lawsuits against the guy who punched him, the guy with the quarters LOST.

    Using something like this will invoke devastating damage. Your LIFE better be at real risk here, and not just a testosterone based bar fight.

    As a martial artist for over 25 years, and instructor at times, lesson #1 is to avoid a physical altercation. So be a Pussy and run. Then if push comes to shove, use what you have at your disposal.

    Also, by the time you reach into your pocket to pull out your roll of coins you have 'telegraphed' your move so badly you might just loose anyway. (I know if I saw someone reach into their pocket and pull out the coins, their ass would be knocked out (with one proper blow) before they could raise their fist)

  7. I have a few budget late model Daytona's that I figured I would experiment on.

    There seems to be 3 common types available from a movement perspective:

    1.) The A7750 versions with working Chrono

    2.) A "21J" type with faux chrono's that perform, date @ 3, 24hr @ 6, week day @ 9 and an ALWAYS sweeping center seconds

    3.) A "21J" type with faux chrono's that perform, date @ 3, "Jeweled" SECONDS @ 6, week day @ 9 and an ALWAYS sweeping center seconds

    It is that 3rd one that got me curious. I am more after the "look" or should I say eliminating the huge "tell" (faux chrono, always running center seconds) from these cheap 21J versions. I am also NOT concerned about a working chrono. If I need a "working chrono" for the day, I grab my Ebel, Swiss Army, etc, since I am leery to even "use" an A7750.

    Ok, here are some photos. The plan is simple: Freeze everything except for the Hour, Minute and Seconds @ 6. So far freezing the 3 & 9 look easy. The real question becomes the center seconds. (Please chime in experts, since I am NOT).

    10p1000209.jpg

    8p1000206.jpg

    Thoughts, questions, comments, snide remarks welcome... :D

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