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Ronin

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Posts posted by Ronin

  1. A few comments.

    The so called Base 1 Homage features a MAXI-Dial/Hands combo. This is not correct for a 16610 homage. Also $775, and it is a "synthetic-sapphire crystal".

    Someone else pointed out the heavy photoshoping of the pics.

    On the plus side, CG's look nice, and if the case is gen 1:1 construction it might have potential for mods.

    base-module-1.jpg

    I have a feeling the crowd here would rather just go for a BK TW, or find a WM9.

  2. That is excellent. Anyone know if there is a USA reseller of these?

    Also, how are the pillows? I am quickly finding some of these put too much stress on the bracelet/clasp for 7" and smaller wrists. My wife can not use her AceTimer winder for this exact reason. A 6" bracelet is under too much tension on his pillows. Thoughts?

    ETA movements should be set on the lowest setting. Here is Orbita's guide to TPD: http://www.orbita.net/NEW/Database-E.htm

  3. man that's nice....I'm in the same boat with my 1570 movement and trying to look for a decent 1680 midcase (see that Yuki's recent offering is not working)

    1. where did you source the GEN bezel assembly and retaining ring?

    2. the crown looks "REP"...the coronet doesn't look right for the period?....wouldn't a 700 or 702 be better suited?

    Parts were collected over the last 2+ years.

    The crown is a correct gen 'service/replacement' part. All crowns these days are 703's from a new/service perspective. Remember, my MO is 'freshly serviced look from RSC'. I am not a period-purist, as I feel it is unrealistic for a 'regularly worn' watch. So the hands and insert are lumi for example, and crown is modern 703. (True, it might be a little too clean/pristine for a late 70's rendition, but I like the idea of letting it age up naturally starting now)

    (edit, went back and looked at photos above -vs- in person, crown has a 'ding' in it that is reflecting/blurring, also either silicon smudge or finger oil-- so I see why you said that. In person the detail is sharp, crisp, and GEN 703.)

  4. Remove the screw & plate adjacent to the arrow in your 2nd pic, then the datewheel will come off. Reverse to reinstall.

    Exactly, having done this with an overlay many times here are some additional tips for re-installation:

    *Rodico is your friend. Since you will be finessing it in, one side will want to pop back out. Use a little Rodico on the opposite side to hold everything in place.

    *ONLY unscrew the side you have the arrow pointing at.

    *When seating it, slightly rotating and pressing in against the spring tension will help.

    The mechanism is pretty robust, so don't worry. It may take a couple of attempts, but you should be fine.

  5. Vlydog and Zigmeister can confirm the "new/current generation" Yuki case is problematic. I used an "old" Yuki for my 1680 build and it was perfect. So if you go Yuki, you need vintage Yuki for lack of a better explanation. His new case has the glued tube also.

    edit to add: You can always inquire with Yuki and get some sort of "return" option, and do a dry run/build. His stock changes. Getting around the language barrier might be tough in trying to communicate you want the SAME case he sold 3 years ago.

  6. The DSSD has a similar presence if not more because it is shiny and says Rolex on the dial.

    I would ask yourself this. Would a broke student be wearing a $9000 DSSD? Your Brietling SOSF, has much more plausibility.

    Finally, and this is just a personal pet peeve / opinion, but be ready for the "Gas Escape Valve" Jokes. (Why did Rolex have to put that on the FRONT of the DSSD? :bangin:)

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