ubiquitous

Maciek, How does the phone hold up to everyday wear and tear (i.e. scratches, etc)?

Agreed This is probably one of the more cost effective frankens that one could do... Start with a gen 16200 case set: Pop the cyclops: Add a gen 14270 or 114270 dial: Plus an ETA 2824: Finish with hands: All for less than $700US, which is one of the less expensive frankensteins out there.

Thanks for the kind words, gang! I'm no photographer, but a buddy of mine says that the effect is 'vignetting', which I've come to understand is not necessarily a desired effect. So... It looks like more practice for me! However, I've got to say that the macro achieved by reversing a lens is really quite neat and very effective. I may have to get one of those reversal rings that Pug was talking about...

Thanks for the direction on this, guys! This definitely has my interest piqued!

Hmmmm... Methinks I will have to do some research!

So, am I under the correct impression that the U.S. gets no love? I've been happily living cellular free for many years now; this one would have been the phone to pull me back in...

Thanks, fellers! @Corgi Which ones would you like? I have larger resolution files available...

Definitely looks like a secs @ 6:00 7750; the case has the slim profile with low rehaut. As a result, the crown sits pretty low in the CG's. Here's the one I just built for a relative... Same issue with the crown position...

Giving Pugwash's suggestion of reversing the lens for macro functionality Can you see the service etch? Nice, close pics achieved but with a slight 'tunnel effect' going on; I suspect this is because I was holding one lens inverse to the lens on my camera. Thoughts? Cheers, R

Looks great, T! That's one hell of a Port! Very elegant...

Not a huge surprise, since IWC and Panerai are both under the Richemont umbrella Cross pollination between IWC and Panerai seems to be a sort of regular thing these days, no?

Oh wow... I didn't even notice the original post's date!! Just saw it as a current post and assumed as much...

My personal preference is more form follows function. Or rather, make that comfort. A couple of examples- I love my 42mm Patek Nautilus. It's thin profile, comfortable bracelet and light weight makes it a perfect choice for me. To contrast, the 42mm AP ROO (secs at 12:00) I owned briefly was thick, heavy, bulky and the bracelet was not easy to size to a reasonable fit; it was either too loose or too tight (perhaps a half link would have worked well to adjust a bit). Regardless, it weighed a ton, and always felt clumsy; I had to consciously keep from knocking it into walls, door frames etc. For me, a 40mm Oyster case is a nice inbetween- Nicely proportioned, not too thick, easy to adjust the bracelet; very organic feeling. Panerai is okay at 44mm, as the case is rather low profile, and the lugs help stabilize the case on the wrist. So to summarize, the acceptable size of the watch in my case really depends on the watch itself; it has to be comfortable first and foremost. That said, I don't think a 53mm watch is going to fit well, nor very comfortaby on my 6.75 in. wrist

No rhyme or reason; I usually just build what interests me. Since I do frankensteins, my attention is less focused on new releases in the rep market (though I do my best to keep current with what's new); rather, my interest is in what the market for gen parts is doing and how current trends fit into my personal schedule of projects

Past few weeks have been non-stop go, go, go, and this week is shaping up to be a continuing trend... That said, my rotation is roughly the same as it has been- Mon: Tues: Weds: Thurs: Have a great week! Cheers, R

B- Here's one that I did recently- Bleach, 100% strength and for 4 minutes. BTW... If this is on one of those inserts I sold you some time back, I'd recommend maybe considering against the idea Those inserts look great as new; if you want to go with a faded insert, grab a cheap aftermarket piece and fade that instead. You'd be able to alternate between the two that way with each giving a very distinct appearance and change to your watch as you see fit. Just my $0.02...

T- While I agree, it would be nice to keep such items at home, I just like the idea of keeping things in the bank vault (I also keep other important items, documents etc in the SD box). A visit to the bank is just a few minutes away, and it's nice to know that should anything happen to our house, the items are secured offsite. Plus, it's not terribly expensive...

The honpo site states 40mm, but man... Not exactly a great example of this watch.

I'm sure I have a spare somewhere. Send me a PM; I'll see if I have one and if I do, I'll send one off...

Friday- Morning: Evening: Saturday: Sunday:

And, if vintage counts... Here's my 9411 snowflake Tudor Sub based on an MBW 1680...

wm9- -Genuine retaining ring Genuine washer/click -Genuine bezel -Genuine (old) insert -Genuine crystal gasket -Genuine 295c crystal -Genuine crown/tube -old TW Best SELs modified -wm9 outer first links -noobmariner hollow links -wm9 clasp Preliminary pics (I need to do some final adjusting still)

Thanks, gang! One of my favorite pieces! But sadly, it spends more time in the safe deposit box instead these days...

Mineral vs. sapphire... If necessary, I have a gen cyclops removed from a 295c (used for my old 14270 project) that you guys can test with. That would eliminate the cyclops material theory at least

Not sure if they'll be up for sale or not just yet; I was planning on holding onto all the left over parts to keep with the watch; if I ever decided to sell, I'd sell as the entire, complete and all original parts inclusive package. Who knows... Thanks Rob and JoJo. Much appreciated and thanks for the kind words. R- I hope that eye is getting better! To split the links, you need a very sharp, very thin and very rigid blade to fit between the 'seams'. A razorblade is definitely not the right item to use as it's not strong enough to wedge in and spread the links apart you risk having bits of the blade snapping off, or flying into the air. But the blade has to be sharp or thin enough to penetrate the almost non-existant gap.