jmb

Just to let everybody know, the care package from Bro. Lani got here today and I have made one retention ring and made a dimensioned drawing of the ring that I have attached to this thread as a .pdf file. Didn't figure many of you would be able to look at a .dxf file. ;-) mbw5513 retention ring.pdf

I used an O-ring (like on a case back) under the compression ring. The inside bottom of the ring was slightly radiused and I felt this would give room for the O-ring and also compress it against the crystal/case junction. I have not been brave enough to toss it in a bucket, yet! I wouldn't think a fine bead of RTV around the crystal base would be out of line...

Are you talking glass "glass" or plexi/acrylic crystal? The acrylic crystals are secured by a compression/retention ring that is pressed down over the crystal which "squeezes" it against the case. Make sure you don't tear up your original crystal as you may need it again. I tried a Clarks and a different T-19 crystal and found my compression ring slid easily over the Clarks crystal but I had to use a crystal press to fully seat the ring on the other one. I was afraid the Clarks would fall off, or at best leak. So much for standards and interchangeability. Someday I will machine a different ring that has a few thousandths small ID and install the Clarks...

The dials I have have feet for a21j movements...

The "blue" Loctite is what I use on stuff that I may want to take apart again someday... The "red" is fairly permanent unless you put heat to it...

I love it when a plan comes together... Hmmm, where did I hear that? Lani, do you still have my address?

Would this thickness difference be like a "The ring is identical except for this dimension should be that" kind of thing or is it totally different? Avitt, be happy to.

Mmmm, Pepsi! ;-)

This looks pretty much like the one I have for about the same price: http://www.silix-prime.com/rol135-p-937.html

I'll toss in a CAD drawing of the ring if I get one to make detailed measurements from (or a detailed dimensioned sketch) so anybody else in this "pickle" will at least have access to a print to get one made from...

This one is a Datejust rep and has a vintage style band, does that make it a "vintage"? I picked it up to use in a secret project... It was about 1/3 the price of the Silix model you listed...

Not wanting to answer for kbh but the watch seems to spawn a love/hate relationship. I really think it looks fantastic but I really never wear mine as I find it a bit "chunky" for everyday wear... I loved it from afar but am growing to dislike it the more wrist time it gets...

The "Asian" movement is the faux decorated Rolex sorta wannabe clone of the Rolex movement. Been lots of reports with the faux bridge falling off, rotors falling off, etc. On mine the rotor was tight but the faux bridge attachment screw was loose so I removed it. Seems the conventional wisdom is to go with the 2836 movement...

I prefer "light vintagization" opposed to the drastic "toss it out in the driveway and run over it a few times" favored by some hard-core practitioners. I like to round/smooth off sharp well defined edges/features, polish up high spots on brushed parts like might get rubbed on with normal usage, etc. I tend to leave the crystals alone as I like to be able to actually see and read the watch! I also think that most folks would replace a crystal once it got gouged up anyway so I personally don't think a nice crystal detracts from the effect, much.

I have a couple of rep GMT Master II dials that I will probably never use...

Great craftsmanship!

Mr. Goat is very likely correct and I think the best bet would to put a rep Rolex GMT Master II dial on the Alpha along with the old crown from the Noob after you replace it.

These may be silver-soldered, but I'm not sure as I've never tried to silver-solder anything made from stainless steel. I will offer that it's possible JB-Weld might do the trick if the two pieces are cleaned/prepared and clamped tightly for the 24 hours it takes to cure. I have had JB-Weld make some unbelievable bonds! That's a last-ditch thing but at that point you have nothing to loose.

Momentous milestone, Bro. Lani! Your fingers must be tired...

Thanks!

I've been watching http://watch.1saleaday.com/ since on another forum I found that occasionally a watch will come up with a desirable movement for a fraction of what the movement retails for. Today's watch is an Invicta with a Swiss ISA 2321 Movement for $39.95. Never heard of an ISA 2321 movement so I thought I'd ask the experts...

I'll drink to that!

Yes...

Maybe they will but as far behind as they are on everything else (and as hard as it appears to be to turn out a good one) by the time they got it done it would qualify as a Vintage!

My Noob movement lasted about a day and I eventually replaced it with a DG2813 from ofrei. I first ordered one from cousins but the seconds pinion is "recessed" and the seconds hand would not reattach. The ofrei version wound up being a direct swap with no fuss...