jmb

We could mount the case up in the lathe and shave a bit from the rehaut

Thanks for the comments, I had not thought of the weight aspect but I doubt if would be more than a couple of grams difference...

I have seen movement spacers/rings/adapters made from stainless steel and brass can anybody think of a good reason why one couldn't be machined from aluminum? I need to make one for a sub I'm sticking together and working with aluminum is soo much easier than stainless!

I agree that it should be repped, all the parts are "off-the-shelf" except for the dial and that should be rather easy...

My wife quite likes her Ladies Datejust with silver dial and stick markers - very simple and understated but looks classy without being too "in your face".

red, Cool! I found a crystal in the junkbox that had the cyclops a lot closer to the edge and was going to put it on the Tudor until I was cleaning it and found a "coronet" etched on it! Does anybody know if these A7750 Daytona cases will take a gen (or aftermarket sapphire as gen replacement) crystal? I routinely see them on flea-bay for not a whole lot of money...

As soon as "we" come up with a diameter I'll drill 'em. Are y'all saying that even though there are holes a "standard" spring bar is used? If that's the deal I can just poke some holes about half way through the lug since the ends of the spring bars won't be showing and that way I won't disturb the holes on the inside of the lug where the spring bars actually locates into. This is sounding almost too easy...

That is great news! I think I can afford that one.

shultz, yes, I do need to do that but I may wait until I can find a source for end-links that have a "tube" that will accommodate the larger spring bars. When I drill these out at least every other one will become unsoldered from the link. gpl, no problem - I like reading what kind of things people run into as well.

Thanks, BT. Yeah, I love his blue one. I saw a blue dial w/hands on flea-bay the other day and it didn't last very long - I was very tempted but it cost more than I have paid for any complete watch and while I waffled about it somebody snagged it...

Ho-lee crap! I could buy a brand new BMW R1200RT motorcycle and have enough left over for a gen Sub! Glad y'all think it's reasonable, I just can't see it...

I have loved my "community" Prince Date Chrono since I got it put together and I've found myself wearing it more and more. Kurt went above and beyond the call and mailed me a gen Tudor Trip-Lock crown and tube set! After helping my youngest finish the 24k mile service on his BMW R1200ST this evening I wandered out to the shop and proceeded to tear apart my "pride and joy". After I de-cased the movement and removed the old tube I tried the gen tube and it would not even start so I dug the proper tap out of the toolbox. The amount of chips produced by the tap indicated to me that the original hole had a completely different thread, smaller diameter, or both. After running the tap through a few times, and cleaning out the swarf, I trial fitted the tube and found it stood rather proud of the case. Looking at the tube under magnification revealed a tapered portion at the top of the threaded portion so I put a shallow countersink on the crown tube hole in the case. After doing this I could screw the tube all the way in so I then applied thread locker, screwed in the new tube, and then greased all of the O-rings and installed them into the tube. The final thing was to install the new crown onto the stem after removing the old crown. I tried to unscrew it but it wouldn't budge and I didn't want to risk snapping the stem. I had originally installed the crown using blue Loc-Tite so I can verify it does it's job well! I had to heat the stem to break the thread-locker bond then I was able to unscrew the two pieces. I then screwed the gen crown onto the existing stem and, to my surprise, found the stem length did not have to be altered as it fit perfectly. Below are a few pics of the finished product with a "before" pic for comparison. Before, with rep Rolex crown: After, with gen Tudor crown: I didn't realize that such a small detail would be noticeable but I can now see why people always seem to want to change to a gen crown. Thanks for looking and thanks go again to Kurt, Ubi, and Lani for making this project a reality.

Fox just indicated all tsunami warnings have been canceled except for Japan and Russia. Looking at pictures from Chile remind me of the last big CA quake as far as what it looks like happened to freeways/bridges. Probably a good thing it hit early morning - hopefully the death toll remains relatively low due to the better building standards there.

It should be the same as mine except for the insert...

I bought the "Coke" model from idolreplicas ($20 less) and I think it's a fine looking watch. All I've done to it is open up the lug holes and put in correct spring bars but it really needs to have the insert faded a bit and I don't think the crystal "profile" is quite right. But, for the price I think you'd be hard pressed to find a significantly better deal.

I had bid on one of his "loose" movements but I fear the price is starting to get carried away. I'm around FTW, I try to avoid Dallas - too much traffic!

Well, it's all academic - I snoozed so I loosed.

I can machine whatever spacer I need and I'll stick on the old dial with "dial dots" and I should have a set of hands in the "assortment" I bought from Cousins a while back.

I want to "upgrade" my wifes favorite a21j Datejust with an ETA movement but at ofrei's price it wouldn't be worth it. Maybe if I can get the 4 for $200 (buy-it-now is $220 or make offer) I can use one then flog the rest...

Just curious what a lot of 4 "NOS condition" Tudor marked ETA 2671 movements would be worth? Need one to upgrade my wifes Datejust...

Ubi, it would cause a great disturbance in the Force if you were to part with your Snowflake - DON'T DO IT! I decided to get vintage today...

Here's a couple... a21j version: a7750 version:

The more I wear this the more I feel I need to dump everything else and just keep this one! Contemplating putting up with freezing temps on two wheels when I get off work in the morning...

I think the major issue with the PT crystal is the compression ring has an ID which is considerably larger than the OD of the crystal although the ID of the crystal and the case appear to be compatible. This requires the use of the nylon/plastic "spacer" or a custom machined compression ring to secure the crystal. I have no idea why they did it this way unless to use up some mis-machined parts or maybe the use of a compliant spacer makes manufacturing tolerances on the ring less relevant in order to reduce scrappage.

I was thinking I read somewhere that the 2836 is a drop-in other than different hands.