omega1

Agreed. What I do is use about 12 dabs around the bezel (from a toothpick), and then set my 32mm socket on top of the insert to weigh it down while the Gorilla Glue expands and sets. Should also mention that I always glue inserts with the bezel off the watch, to prevent what you were talking about.

I have had nothing but good luck with Gorilla Glue on all my inserts.

If it was further south, I would be in. I am in Northern Va.

Well, I just got my 16610 in the mail today (despite still not having any communication with the seller), and overall, I must say that I a quite impressed. I will take some pics once the gorrila glue dries!

Well, if I ever get any reply from the guy that my 16610 has shipped, I will take pictures of it when (if) I get it.

Damn, thats not what I wanted to hear. The insert I just ordered was for a 16610

How has your communication been with the seller? I have sent MULTIPLE e-mails to the guy, none of which have been replied to. I went ahead and purchased an insert for my sub on 2/22/07, and still can't get a response from the guy. After you bought yours, did you get any correspondence stating that the item had shipped, or did it just show up in your mail?

That should be a pretty easy mission! Not sure where you are located, but those things are literaly all over the internet in the States. I have seen them going for as low as $30. Just google "Smith & Wesson SWW-45 S.W.A.T Watch" and you will find tons of them. Jim

It's a Smith and Wesson SWAT. The SWAT is actually made by Luminox for S&W:

Upgraded.

He’s at it again! This time he re-listed it trying to be tricky. The first picture is obviously stolen from someone else. Then he tried to mimic the background of the gen by taking pictures of the fake on a wooden desk. Report this clown! http://cgi.ebay.com/Omega-Seamaster-James-...1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...580939&rd=1 ME: That is the worst looking fake I have ever seen. I can't believe that you are even attempting to sell that as a genuine. HIM: well i bought it from bloomingdales a year ago for 3000.... its authentic, and if you dont think so... dont buy it ME: Well, there are 2 things going on here. Either you are full of it, or the pictures you posted are not of the watch you have. Actually, now that I look at your ad again, you are full of it. Care to place a wager on if this is a real Omega or not? ME: Whats the matter, you don't want to challenge me on this? You might want to speak up before I have your account suspended. HIM: i know its real... its just like all the others on here. whats your problem? ME: You know its real?? I don't even know where to start. Lets see, the bezel and dial are the wrong color. The number font on the bezel is 2x too big. The bezel pearl is wrong. The crown is too small. The HE valve is in the wrong place. The date window is too small. The date color itself is wrong (black background with white numeral is WRONG). The hour hand is too short. Want me to go on? The bracelet is too thick. The end links are incorrect. But most importantly, the biggest giveaway is the case back. It is NOT EVEN CLOSE to what the 2226.80.00 model has. The 2226.80.00 is NOT THE 40th ANNIVERSARY MODEL. It has a totally different case back. Since you clearly stated in the ad that “this is the Limited Edition James Bond 40th Anniversary model”, I now know that these pictures are indeed of the watch you are trying to pawn off as a real Omega. HIM: ................................................... What a jackass that guy is!

The part number is 064-PP-303-001, and the calibre is 1120. Sorry, don't have a case number, as I am not about to crack open my gen! Jim

It's close. Just missing some additional printing around the outside perimeter: GEN ANDREW'S

I personally believe it to be fake, though I will admit to the possibility of it being a rare first run or “experimental” dial from Omega. However, if that were the case, one would think that it would have fetched more then $78. The only 2 current “bond” dials that I have ever seen are the ones that I posted earlier. I think in this case your best bet is going to be to send the picture to the nice folks at Omega to have them confirm it’s authenticity.

You didn't by chance get this from a seller in Australia did you? If so, PM me the item number, as I have a feeling you may have gotten screwed. Jim

That dial is an interesting one indeed. It’s a cross between the 2nd version limited edition Bond 007 (reference 2226.80.00) and the regular Co-Axial SMP (reference 2220.80.00). 2226.80.00: 2220.80.00: I hope you didn't pay too much for it!

Interestingly enough, the seller has ended the auction early. Perhaps it was this e-mail that I had sent to him that made him pull it: "You may as well just go ahead and double my money now, as that watch is FAKE"

Soooooooo.........This guy will double your money back if not authentic, but then shows a shot of a 2824-2 movement! Oh the humanity! http://cgi.ebay.com/OMEGA-SEAMASTER-007-JA...1QQcmdZViewItem

I personally don’t bother with the “5 positions”. I adjust the rate (or regulate as most call it) to my wearing habits. My daily habits are fairly routine, so this is what I do: I start with a fully wound watch and sync it to the atomic clock first thing in the morning. I wear it all day long, and even go to sleep with it on. The next morning I check it against the atomic clock again and make regulation adjustments as needed, that is, if it gained 5 seconds while on my wrist, then I move the regulator back one tick mark. I continue to do this until I get +2 seconds per day. Now here is the thing. If I take that same watch that is +2 on my wrist for 24 hours, and let it sit in the watch box dial up (or any other position for that matter) for 24 hours, it could gain or lose up to 15 to 20 seconds per day. I chalk this up to the several different things; most importantly being that the mainspring is winding down so power delivery can fluctuate, changing the accuracy. If on my wrist for 24 hours, it’s a safe bet that the movement stays in a full state of wind (with the exception of when I am sleeping). So, I find that if you adjust the rate to get the watch to where you want the accuracy to be sitting on a desk, you will be surprised that when you wear it the accuracy will change. Jim

You are not the only one! I recently purchased a gen SMP, and was not happy with how the dial on my rep SMP looked. I ended up ordering a new gen dial from Ofrei. Can't wait for it to get here! Jim

LOL--just an FYI, the packet that comes with beef jerky is not silica gel, its an oxygen absorber to keep the jerky moist!

Gen is on the right. Give aways for me were: Pearl Date window (gen is rectangular, while the rep is more square) Thickness of dial minute markers Caseback (gen is more flat, while rep is more domed) Otherwise, its a pretty good rep!

This brings up an interesting point. If you have them regulated to keep perfect time with your PC clock while on a winder, do you notice any difference in time keeping when on the wrist? I don't have a winder (yet), but here is my thought on it. I would think that on the wrist, the "winder regulated" watch may run a bit slower. The reason is that your body heat warms up the parts, thus thinning out the viscosity of the oils. This allows or ensures the balance wheel to make its full swing, which would make the time keeping slower then at room temperature. Have you ever noticed anything like that? Jim