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PeteM

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Posts posted by PeteM

  1. I got loads more for the more discerning gentleman... or rather fat wristed !! :)

     

    It all depends if you can wait a few weeks and budget and style.... etc

     

    Plus then you have the strap makers that make the OEM straps for gen brands like Hirsch, Rios1931, DiModell etc etc

  2. Depends on the type but for mid range and quick delivery in EU and ready made as example

     

    http://www.watch-band-center.com/shop-watchstrap.html

     

     

    https://www.watchband24.de/1ot08c2uc31rif6q4o8mkv1mo3,3,1,1,0,0,.html

     

     

    UK one here limited but has some and low end budget price

     

    http://www.ukwatchstrap.co.uk/?oo=312

     

     

     

    But there are loads more mate..... as I have 8 and half inch I tend to have a few links but all depends on what you want, time and quality/price

     

    What are you after ? any ideas roughly?

  3. :(   just as i was about to get my first Breitling Rep. ....

     

     

    I wouldnt give up yet mate....some dealers will search wholesalers and stalls.... just because maker has no more and will make no more it doesnt mean they still cant be bought from a dealer..

     

    Its just dealers like Andrew wont do that (if maker hasnt got it then thats it for them ) but smaller dealers will look at other sources...same watch/maker just already bought from maker by A.N.Other.

     

    Or indeed some may even have one or two laying around in stock.... sometimes the last few are sold by the makers to cover costs but at reduced price to dealer so they buy them knowing they can pass them on at some stage and have a nicer margin in it...though TB and sead etc will just sell at discount/end of line etc

     

    I found that once with angus...no one had it at all... but he had one on the shelf... however he wont go searching either....you want smaller dealers for that.. :)

    • Like 1
  4. Pete's right the crystal can be a tad cloudy but I really like these smaller 1950 cases and these are great watches

     

    and that new movement cover looks the business

     

     

     

     

    Bang on mate... no comparison with ZF...

     

     

    But given a choice I would rather the crystal than the movement ..nice as it is....

     

     

    I am not sure but I get a sense that KVs makers source some of their parts from the same sources as other makers where they can and that is why some details seem the same and sometimes create confusion...

     

    Probably totally wrong given the way makers like the Noob tie their makers into exclusivity deals..... especially with movements... ;(

  5. eje8ahun.jpg

     

     

    Its funny I thought there were more than that....

     

    It doesnt mention 'riders' but mentions 'Chelsea'....

     

     

    I had a pair of Brogues made for me last century ;) and I remember this guy explaining to me what a brogue was and how it would be defined.... as the pattern of the seams gave it a regional twist.. say like London Brogue Oxford brogue...but in his opinion there was only one brogue  

     

    He explained that this had no turn downed seam at the heel and a single seam around the toecap meeting in a point and the type and size of the heel etc and of course the sole thickness and layers plus stitching.. he had a very definite definition as I recall...

     

    Would anyone else add a type to that list or would you guys say its definitive (barring variations on a theme) ?

  6. I hear hot and cold about these watches.... they certainly seem to have built up a following....

     

    The only 2 complaints I have heard of is the thickness and/or size of CB relative to gen (I guess that is to allow for plates maybe?) and the case shape at lugs plus cloudier crystal than ZF maker.... I have seen other pics of the 3 series PAMs and to me the CG always looks off in terms of the REGTM depth and thickness etc

     

    But other guys seem to think this maker that does it for KW makes gen weighty feeling reps

     

    Compared to the ZF maker you can see the main difference is in movement (painted jewels) and case and crystal plus IMHO CG

     

     

    By the way what does GMT stand for? and why does it have a large and small seconds hands... I am confused :inverted:

  7. I have bought several J12s in ceramic...pink black etc all with CZs.... never paid more than $100 for them from Reg (Narikka)...and each of them is as good on the wrist as the gen... havent even changed the batteries in them and some are 4 years old !!

     

     

    My wife had the gen at one stage but she sold it after getting the reps...  she couldnt see the point as the reps were good enough against the gen ;)

  8. Thanks for the kind words Pete, I am truly blessed to have such an awesome daughter, even apart from this she's a great kid, very loving and humble, I couldn't wish for a better daughter.

     

     

    She must have a great role model mate....  and your love is there for all to see :)

     

     

    Bump for a great cause :)

  9. Sorry guys... I realise it might sound a little strange..

     

    Basically I have been teaching myself to refurb cases and bracelets, plus jewellery etc...

     

    I have managed to get my head round using typical cutting compunds, and using different mopping wheels plus grit and polishing paper etc etc

     

    But I am now looking at improving my satin or brushed finish... so far I have been using the quality cutting compounds and/or the grit paper or polishing paper WD40 etc plus varying the mopping wheels

     

    So for example if I was redoing a watch case I would start prehaps with a sisal wheel and grey compound... then a tight stitched wheel and green compund and then a medium stitched wheel and blue compund and then a pink compound followed by a loose wheel and a white or yellow compound (though I use polinoxx) ..now that would take me up to mirror polish so if doing a satin etc I would stop at one stage during that depending on finish desired and use maybe a grit paper (aluminium oxide) or a polishing paper of a grade needed... now thsi works and you can achieve various types of brushed and satin finish

     

     

    However satin/brushed finish is defined in grades and numbered generally 1 to 8

     

     

    I would like to work on achieving each grade where relevant to watch cases and jewellery etc and maybe the odd fridge or sink ;)

     

    For example a grade 4 satin finish is typical referred to as the architectural/brushed/satin finish it has uniform hairline strokes of 120/80 grit and has a semi polished appearance.... now that finish is first polished up to a 120/180 grit then softened down using a greaseless compound wheras say a grade 6 is called a fine satin finish and is uniform hairline strokes but has a duller or less reflective finish than a grade 4 and is achieved by polishing with a 220/280 grit then softened with a 220 grit.... so basically the hairlines are softer and less reflective than a grade 4..

     

     

    I have practiced and achieved this using tools and compounds as mentioned above.... but I know that professional polishers use a greaseless compound to achieve that polish down (polish down means you basically have gone further up the smoothness to get a reflected finish but then have gone back in the process to get the final finish)

     

    Greaseless compounds are a grit compound (you can get various size grits) but unlike say rouge etc it is not binded with a wax etc but by a glue so that it doesnt leave wax residue and the grit finish is more uniform and cleaner...

     

    I have order some and was wondering if any guys had experience using it?

     

    As I hear that mopping wheel choice is more crucial in its use... and some guys suggest using a felt wheel ...I hate felt wheels ...they tend to scratch up a finish but not sure if that is better in this instance... or if another method is more advisable

     

    I am just looking to save some trail and error time if possible when it arrives :)

     

    I hope that makes sense..

  10. I have ordered some to play with and wondered if anyone had experience in working with it...

    I appreciate its a cutting compound.... although I could never find if it had a comparable normal compound (apart from the cut factor)

    I do have plenty of cases to play with and I have seen some interesting but breif comments in using it on the wonderful world of the web...

    I see most guys say to use it with a felt or medium stitched cotton wheel .. I generally hate using felt myself and prefer sisal and cotton grades up from there..


    I do have plenty of menzerna compounds and wheels of varying quality and grades and i have taught myself how to get a brush finish and a satin finish plus of course other types of finish including mirror etc and also refurbs... I have used in those cases various grades of grit or compound etc etc

    I ahve also learnt the difference between buffing, polishing and colouring metal... ( or more or less smiley.gif )

    I am trying to work my way through the various grades of satin or brushed finish and to that end I want follow the grades that define various types of satin or brushed finishes

    Basically work through #1 to #8 of the grades of satin finish and see for myself how I can create them...

    Normally using previous methods on say #4 I would polish grit through to say 180 and then polish back to 80 or 120 I generally use 3M polishing papers rather than other alumiunium oxide papers..

    However I have never tried the Sateen greaseless compound...

    Do any of you guys use this and if so what have you found it best to use?

    For example for a #4 do you polish up to 180 or say go up to 120 and then polish down to 120 or 80 and then apply sateene or say polish up to 180 say and polish down using the sateene 120 or 80 grit ?

    And in addition what wheels do you use? Felt ? Medium stitch cotton or other...can you vary the colour and finish by the choice of wheels like you can with normal buffing and polishing compounds?

    Any general pointers would be welcome... smiley.gif


    FYI = I use either a dremel or rigid drill set up

  11. It is a sad reminder that what the media see as news worthy headlines and worthy of our concern and worry on a daily basis is in reality completely overshadowed by the forces of nature across the planet as a whole...

     

     

    And even when they can be bothered the main thing that catches their attention is something involving dogs and old people...

     

    I would like to say I remember when newspaper reported the news and didnt sell fear and scaremongery or the endless list of celebrites getting drunk when out or whatever they do,,

     

    But unfortunately I cant....

     

     

    My thoughts are with everyone effected by the devestation ...

  12. It doesn't exist Pete. A gen tricompax datewheel won't fit an A7750. And nobody has made a Breitling 7750 datewheel with the first 9 numbers rotated 90 degrees. Only solution is a rep Skyland or Evo datewheel which will be accurate 22 days a month.

     

     

    I knew if anyone would know it would be you mate :) :)

     

    I remember when I had a gen DW for a MBL I couldnt make it work without stepping up the rest of the build... plus it didnt fit the rep DWw anyway !!

     

     

    But I guess 22 days aint bad if its worn in rotation !! :) :)

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