freddy333

Local jeweler.

Most obvious tells (to me) - case looks new (I would give it some patina) & dial looks new/aftermarket. Depending on the price being charged, I would either figure in the cost of a better (ie, more realistic for its age) dial or, if your goal is accuracy over cost, look for a better watch.

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aliyarana - Good 1st post! You might introduce yourself (in the Introduction forum) and tell us a little about your experience with watches &/or reps. Sounds like you have some knowledge.

Since this type of work is neither high speed nor high torque, any oil will do. Just be sure to keep the tap straight (ie, be careful not to misthread) & work easy, steady & slow.

You might find it easier to purchase an entire gen (or gen-spec, aftermarket) case rather than just a case back, which would also eliminate the question of whether the back would fit the case. & -- as a bonus -- you would end up with 1 less potential tell in the process.

Considering the beautiful locale, who cares whether the build passes the test. But nice watch.

59 is high, but I do not know what lift angle is spec'd for these clone movements? You might ask the seller why his timegrapher is set to such a high lift angle (norm is between 48-52, with 52 being the most common). The other specs look fine.

Most use whatever works -- a combination of files, sandpaper, Dremel, polishing compounds etc. The tools are less important than your ability to see what mods are required, your knowledge of what is needed to make a new/rep case appear to have naturally lived through years/decades of wear/polishing & skill in wielding whatever tools used to achieve the end you seek. Like most skills, your knowledge, experience & abilities are what counts, not the tools used to achieve a result.

I am not on instagram, so you are on your own there. I would avoid buying Rolex/Tudor on sites that do not post both seller history & buyer ratings (eg, ebay). Unless a seller has a long , documented history of Rolex/Tudor sales & a long documented list of satisfied Rolex/Tudor buyers, you are playing Russian Roulette.

I have more experience with Rose Tudor Sub dials & based on the Timegrapher output, it needs an overhaul. But other than that, based on the pics, it looks gen to me. As always, buy the seller BEFORE you buy the watch!

Been wearing the double red all week --

Sub today --

Yes. Most of my watches have Rolex movements, so I am generally more familiar with them. However, these days, the cost & difficulty in sourcing Rolex replacement parts make Rolex movements especially challenging to work on. With the exception of the 775xs, once you acquire the skills & tools, I would say that servicing ETAs are no different than servicing Rolexes. They all work essentially the same way. It is more a matter of which movements you spend more time working on, so the process becomes more instinctive. Parts availability aside, if you have successfully overhauled ETAs, you should be able to do the same with a basic Rolex. But before attempting a Rolex, I would seriously consider whether you have the time, patience & funds for Rolex parts. If you lose or break a rotor spring or cap jewel or whatever, it will likely take alot of time, effort & money to find a suitable replacement.

Check with your local jeweler. Many either offer the service or have a plating company they use.

The exception to this is the 16800 Sub, which 1st appeared with a matte dial in 1979. The 16800's dial was changed to gloss in the mid 1980s I believe.

No idea on any Vietnam crackdowns, but MQ's site is still online.

I believe the last gilt Subs were produced in 1966. But, as with all things Rolex, I do not think anyone (outside Rolex) knows for certain.

There should be a few threads detailing my Bond Sub build from 2008-9 (including macros of the finished dial/handset before casing & the process I used to add 'patina'), but I cannot seem to find them. However, I found these pics in my archives from that build that may help as a guide --

if you are looking for an honest recommendation, I would begin by tossing the bezel insert & starting over with a new 1. The 'wear' is much too inconsistent in placement (natural wear generally affects the entire part & looks even) & TOO consistent in direction. It looks more sandpaper & bleach than patina. Even a new insert would improve the overall presentation. Also, like many inexperienced modders, your lume 'patina' looks too manufactured. Like the insert, the patina should be more subtle & consistent. The lighter part of the lume looks better than the darker parts. If the lume was originally that lighter color, I think I would have left it alone & just given the dial a thin coat of matte shellac to give it a bit of texture ('patina') & to tone down the newness. I have found that a bit of edge burnishing (to remove the sharp edges of a new case) with a Dremel & some green rouge adds to that 'years of polishing' look that gives a vintage watch that vintage look. Taking into account that they are different Sub models, compare your dial to the lume & texture of 1 of my gen Sub dials --

My hands-on experience with clones is limited to A4130s (see my Big Kahuna & Golden Cuckoo threads for details). Sorry.

Looks good! Have you peered into the case to view the movement? I would love to see some macros of that.