freddy333

Wearing The Golden Cuckoo today

The Big Kahuna's time was last set (to our company's email server, which is linked to an atomic clock) a little more than 1 month ago. I just checked it for the 1st time since then -- it lost 5 seconds! That is less than 2 secs/week! Of the 4 quartz watches I have, only 1 maintains more accurate time than that! Although The Kahuna does contain some gen (movement) parts, it is technically a fake Rolex, whose total financial outlay was less than $3,500 -- & without the games, waiting lists & various other issues that are part of today's 'gen buying experience'. The Golden Cuckoo, fitted with the same contingent of gen parts (&, likewise, w/o any timing adjustments!), continues to run within gen specs, +/- 2secs/day. I will say it again -- these 1165xx clones are 1 of the best buys in rep watch history. As further evidence of their accuracy, I just returned the gen gold 23-704 crown/tube I had purchased for The Cuckoo back into storage because they are nearly indistinguishable from the clone parts these 2 watches came with from the factory. Yes, these fake Rolexes are so good that it is not worth my time to swap gen parts for these fakes.

The best way I found to naturally patina a tropical dial is to add a tiny bit of black shoe polish to some of the brown/blank areas & then bake it -- carefully -- until the desired effect is achieved! Done properly, you should not see where the polish was applied & some of the shininess will be reduced. You did great work on the Explorer & I look forward to seeing the outcome of your tropical Sub. In the meantime, here is some inspiration --

Both dials are knockouts, so you win either way. But I would always give the nod to well done (ie, believable from an arm's length away) tropical dials.

$1,300 for a few vintage Rolex parts. Crazy -- but this time next year, crazy will have been a bargain.

I have not forgotten about that. It just takes alot of time to remove the curtains from the rod, pull together all the contestants & then set everything up, which I have not had. But I plan to do an update as soon as time permits.

Another interesting project. A couple of random thoughts -- Have you considered using another dial? The print of the Yuki dial pictured is pretty poor. I think even most standard rep dials today might be a better option, let alone 1 from 1 of the better franken parts sellers. Also, will you be removing the corrosion on the metal before finishing? It looks like mostly surface rust that could easily be removed. I know it is not seen once everything is cased up, but I think it would be worth the time/effort to deal with the rust before assembly.

Working @ home & wearing The Golden Cuckoo (which continues to encourage copious amounts of slobber to seep from my oral cavity). I have been bewitched by this watch.

Free market & beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Update -- The Golden Cuckoo is now fitted with gen hands, balance/bridge, reversers & various screws to replace those that were either damaged or of poor quality. Although I had planned to swap the coronet for a gen, once I had the dial off & compared the clone to the gen -- & you are not going to believe this -- but the coronet on the clone dial is a clone of the gen 116508-0009 in the 2020-2021 Rolex catalog, page 141 if you have 1. Had I swapped the coronet, it would not match the catalog, so it had to stay. Some of the details, like the coronet on this particular model, seem to be unique to the 116508-0009. Another of these unique attributes are the 3 subdial hands, which are not only GLOSS black, but the paint is applied to the entire hand & is so THICK that it forms a cone around the center rivet. It is quite a distinctive look & something I have never seen before on a Rolex, especially when the light is reflected on an angle from the center of the hands. This is the only Daytona model I have seen that is painted this way (the subdial hands on all other Daytonas are painted with flat paint &/or have bare center rivet sections). Really, the only remaining tell -- & you have to know about it in the 1st place -- is the lack of an 'intense black' dial color. The 'intense black' of the gen is achieved much like many high-end black car finishes, which are often composed of a combination of deep purple & blue applied as a fine mist so it appears nearly matte from a distance. The clone is more of a semi-flat black, which, from an arm's length, looks like the gen. But this is the only detail that is missing as you view the dial close-up or through a loupe. If the case was solid 18kt, I would probably finish her off with a gen dial. But because gold plating is never permanent, I decided to draw the line there. Unfortunately, once again, because the clone's original parts are so good, the external gen parts swaps are subtle, so it may be difficult to see the improvements. But, like the gen, the macro viewer is well rewarded for their close attention with a stunningly beautiful handset. Also, because the watch sits about 3/4 mm lower on the wrist with the solid caseback, I may not fit this 1 with a display caseback. 3/4 mm may seem like a tiny difference, but it is quite noticeable when the watch is on the wrist. Still deciding -- gen auto-wind bridge & crown. The clone parts are so good (greatly exceeding Trustytime's pics of those parts on his website) that I am still ambivalent as to whether they are needed. So these are to be determined. This watch is incredibly beautiful. The more I look at her (yes, she's so striking that she's a she -- &, yes, I know what a she is when I see 1), the more I fall under her spell. How John Mayer could make a fuss over a mundane gold & green Daytona & miss this 1 entirely is beyond me. They are not even in the same galaxy & I say that as someone who -- up until now -- thought (most) yellow gold watches look needlessly ostentatious & silly.

I will try to shoot an updated SOTDC after the work has been completed on The Golden Cuckoo. Until then, I hope these will do --

The Golden Cuckoo Just in case --

In the video, because they included large pics of the watch in good light (which I have never seen before), it also became clear that the crown was steel while the rest of the watch was white gold. Always demand good, clear macros when buying anything of value (including sellers ), especially those things that are known to be faked.

Update -- The Next Big Thing (aka The Golden Cuckoo) is scheduled to arrive by this weekend. If all goes well, I will post 1st pics then. Stay tuned --

The Biggest Rolex Scandal in History Just Happened

It was that dirty 'test' insert you made that put my '42 over the top. It was too bad you were not able to reproduce that insert, with the dirt/shipping damage (that resulted in the insert arriving in 5 or 6 pieces), for the actual production run. Comparing the 'test' insert to the finished version, the 'test' insert won hands-down. Sometimes, our mistakes turn out to be strokes of genius. That 'test' insert was a prime example.

No one can estimate the value of aftermarket parts. Their value is what you, as buyer, are willing to pay. Also, their value is greatly dependent upon what watch you intend to use them on. For an early 62xx Daytona, the bezels in this pic look most like the gen (note the swan-neck 2s). You or others may view them differently.

I do not follow reddit for anything, so I cannot comment directly. What I do know is that rwg.cc, like many of the gen watch sites, is like a ghost town today, which I think is due to a combination of watch burnout & poor management/misdirection of the sites/forums. Like some of the other mods, I lost interest in rwg after the site steered away from the more technical aspects of watches/collecting & into games/contests. There were other issues that some of us Mods took exception with, but that is not relevant here. Not looking to start a debate with anyone (that is for another thread), just expressing why some of us old-timers lost interest. Today, for better or worse, the games appear to have gone away, but, as was predicted, so has the membership. On the other hand, RWI (forum.replica-watch.info/ -- which is where I 1st learned about the amazing 4130-based Daytona clones), is like Grand Central Station. RWI today is what rwg.cc was up to a dozen years ago -- active & breaking new ground with many knowledgeable members leading/running a very busy forum. Although I hate to add to the member leakage here, I would recommend checking RWI out if you have not yet done so. I think you will find it quite educational. As to TDs, I think the concept of verifying rep sellers & applying clear rules for them to market to a large pool of eager buyers was more or less pioneered by us in the early 2000s. Others (like RWI) then copied our success because it was so effective for both buyers & sellers. Unfortunately, as the membership here dwindled, so did the TDs, as I see that some no longer list current/working contact & site addresses. I am guessing rwg.cc's mods are no longer actively overseeing or maintaining these TD relationships. However, based on what I am seeing, it looks like RWI is. Not sure why rwg.cc is not referenced on reddit, but I suspect it has to do with simple lack of traffic draw. Rwg.cc just does not draw much traffic now, so reddit does not view us as a major player in the rep field. Not sure how or what rwg.cc can do to regain its prominence without restructuring in a way that provides something for watch collectors that cannot be found elsewhere, as was the case back in rwg.cc's early days. & lacking both Ziggy & Bob, I think it will be difficult (but not impossible) to attract the kind of talent required to achieve that. That is my 2 cents.

That is a VERY pretty watch. Love the numbers.

A funny thing just happened when I caught a glimpse of my watch out the corner of my eye -- I thought I had installed 1 of the lumeless gen Daytona handsets, because I saw only black lines on the hour & minute hands. No lume! Fortunately, after shifting my wrist in the light, the lume sections came back into view & all was right with the world again. But that initial scare got me thinking, which got me experimenting -- Viewed through a loupe, if you position a gen Rolex watch so that a straight (ie, non-Mercedes) hand containing lume catches the light in exactly the right angle (so the light obscures the separation between the lume & paint), the combination of black paint & lume forms a perfectly straight line down the entire length of the hand. Although they do not do justice to what is seen with the naked eye, these modified pics should give you a good idea of the general effect. On the other hand, with (almost) ANY aftermarket Rolex hand (the hands included with The Big Kahuna are almost gen-like), because the painted black lines on the hand are both narrower & slightly offset relative to the lume section, the effect is that of a broken line with the lume appearing wider & slightly askew of the thinner black line. This straight line effect affects all of the gen Daytona & Datejust hands I have checked. It is kind of interesting to discover these tiny details as you look closer rather than seeing more imperfections, which is the case with reps. I thought others might appreciate this --

Great thread topic, auto! Best would have to be my (white dialed) Phase II 6542. A notable second would be 1st (black dialed) 6542 franken, which was 1 of the most complicated watch construction projects I have participated in. I say participated because it took several of the most knowledgeable RWG regulars, including Bob, to get everything worked out at a time when there were no 6542 reps & the final watch was a franken -- a concatenation of 4 different & heavily modified watches & a number of 1 of a kind, hand-made parts -- in the truest sense of the word.

Still wearing my freddy333 Daytona (aka The Big Kahuna) while awaiting arrival of The Next Big Thing (aka The Big Gold Dot) --

As long as your chrono hand has a good rivet, you should be able to tighten it with your staking tool. After centering the staking table with the centering stake, place the hand -- tube up -- into a stump that allows the face of the rivet to sit inside it. You want the face of the hand wand sitting flat against the stump. Install a convex stake that allows the tube to fit into the hole at the end of the stake with as little play as possible, but so that it slides in easily. You want the round face of the stake to fit around the tube & sit against the back side of the rivet. 1 or 2 LIGHT taps with a brass hammer should tighten the rivet joint. DO NOT BANG ON THE STAKE OR YOU WILL DAMAGE/DEFORM/DESTROY THE HAND! Remove & check for tightness. If still loose, repeat. Once you try it, you will be surprised at how simple the process is (& why you did not do it sooner). Good luck.