freddy333

I always peg-out ALL holes/jewels BEFORE cleaning. Also, I likewise generally polish pinions BEFORE cleaning. That way, the ultrasonic agents have an easier time removing debris since most of it is surface contaminants & not burnished into the metal by friction, as in the case of holes/jewels. I generally do not directly oil the balance staff pinions, since they are lubricated (by the oil within the end stones) once fitted back onto the movement. Keep in mind that if you ask 10 watchmakers their procedures, you are likely to get at least 6 variations back. Over time, most tend to learn what works best for their needs & level of perfectionism.

Looking forward to seeing what CTime & theonewatches has to offer. Based on my experience with CTime's Daytonas, the future should be very interesting.

Moonraker Daytonas

My GMT with JoeyB's NON-lexan insert -- if you look carefully, you may be able to see 2 of the 3 broken segments (at 7 & 10 on the bezel's 24-hour scale). Sometimes, lemons make their own lemonade --

Many mistakenly refer to the original Rolex GMT's bezel material as being Bakelite, which is incorrect. Here is a bit of that forgotten history.

The Big Kahuna (116520) & The Golden Cuckoo (116508-0009).

CTime -- Thanks for the great photo layout. I have a Clean 116508 with the v1 A4130 & replaced many of the parts with gen parts (including balance & balance bridge), so I know the movement is an accurate clone. The V2 version looks better, but it would be nice if you could improve the pallets & bridges with stampings on them. I believe those are the weakest points, even in the V2. Otherwise, I have previously sung the praises of Clean in my recent Something, this way comes 1165xx Daytona threads.

Stem should be in winding position.

Under the right light, if you compare 904L to the steel most reps use, some people claim they can see the difference. I cannot.

Took a break from the Big Kahuna since I am just knocking around the house today

Of the 3 factory offerings on Andrew's site, I selected the 1 that contained the fewest & least objectionable sins to my eye. As always, others sensitivities may differ from mine, so you should carefully research each factory's offering & make your selection. Of course, if you are frankening your watch, everything but the case can be corrected with gen parts. But, as I said, out of the box, these are all so accurate that it is difficult to call them fakes, at least in the way we have traditionally classified non-Rolex-built Rolexes. 1 month ago, I set my franken 116520's time to our server's clock &, as of today, it is still within 1 sec of the server's clock. I continue to be amazed at the technical brilliance of the 4130's design & the Chinese ability to clone it for a fraction of the original's cost.

Followers of this thread may appreciate this (model number is actually 116508-0009) --

Never good to hear of others misfortune, but at least it resulted in RWG falling back into its proper hands. Hopefully, you are able to work things out in a way that is beneficial for both you & RWG.

Heading into the weekend with the Big Kahuna

I think either the AD was misinformed or you may have misunderstood them. Any certified Rolex watchmaker with a parts account should be able to work on your watch. Generally, only for vintage pieces, where a certified watchmaker is unable to verify a Rolex's provenance, might the watch have to be returned to a service centre. However, these days, due to cost-cutting, many ADs no longer maintain an in-house watchmaker of any level. In those cases, the watch would need to go the service centre.

There is some seriously heavy metal on this page, gentlemen.

Welcome back, Luca. I do not know the details of your experience with the other member, but it is too bad your return was spoiled by an apparent deception. I know in the old days (when I was a member of the mod team), reports of abuse or questionable trades would come up from time to time & were ALWAYS taken seriously. But, unfortunately, you have to remember that private transactions between members are just that -- private. So there is really little RWG staff can or, really, should do other than to listen to both sides, if both sides are willing to accept a mediator. But, in the end, it is ultimately up to the 2 parties to sort things out, either between themselves or with the help of the payment agent (eg bank, paypal, etc). Good to hear you did finally acquire your grail.

Sorry to hear you have had to deal with so many health issues, but glad to hear they have finally begun to abate. Get well soon.

Update -- After nearly 4 months of nearly daily driving, the Big Kahuna continues to exceed Rolex's specs -- running within +/- 1 sec/day! On my Timegrapher, in all positions, it returns no more than 2 secs deviation with 0.1% beat error and an amplitude of between 285-310. Typical rates for a modern, well-regulated 4130-powered Daytona. Because the fashionistas are now fixated on the latest, ceramic-bezeled models, these more understated, all-steel classics tend to fly below the-radar, which is more my style. & values for white, APH-dialed Daytonas (not counting the racy chrono sweep hand) are once again heading for the stratosphere.

This is the kind of creative spirit that made RWG famous.

I am not accepting any new work, but if this is a gen, why not have a local watchmaker with a Rolex parts account handle this?

Since a few people have messaged me asking about the rubber strap, here is a link to Horus rubber straps.

Yes, it looks like they installed a 16520 dial in a steel-surrounded, ceracrom bezeled 116500LN. That dial was never my cup of tea.