freddy333

Thanks, Alli. That IS definitely an exception, which shows 1 of the holes in my modern Rolex knowledgebase. I stand corrected.

So much for Hyperbole.

Hewlio - Get the New Style Tube to Fit 6 mm Rolex. These fit the current gen 7mm Triplock crowns (Rolex part 25-703), which you can usually source on ebay for $100-$250, depending on condition & seller. (Triplock crown prices are, once again, heading skyward. A couple of years ago, I was able to buy a dozen used (mint condition) Triplocks for $100. Now, that same set would probably cost me nearly 10 times that. Like I always say with Rolex parts - if you think it is too expensive now, just wait. ) Depending on the source of your rep, the gen tube may screw right into the existing case threads (after you have removed the existing rep tube, assuming you do not break it off in the case or damage the case threading during removal). You can use a 3-sided hobby file to remove the existing rep tube. After decasing the movement, insert the end of the file into the tube so it lodges inside & then, with the teeth of the file grabbing the inside walls of the tube, simply unscrew the tube. Be sure to clean out the hole before installing the new gen tube. If the threads are damaged or the gen tube does not fit, you may need to tap the hole with the larger of the 2 taps in Ofrei's Generic tapping set (part FB-3C-969 - Ofrei used to sell each tap separately, but I no longer see them listed that way) Before installing the new tube, put a small amount of GC crystal cement or Loctite 'Blue' (semi-permanent) on the tube's threads (the threads that go into the case, not the threads the crown screws onto) to help seal out dust/moisture (part FB-2202 or similar) If you are real careful (& lucky), you can use the same 3-sided file you used to remove the old tube to install the new 1. But you may damage either the inner walls of the tube or the splines that line that opening. To avoid damaging the tube, or if you plan to install more Rolex tubes in the future, invest in a case tube tool, which fits into the inner splines in the tube (part 3C-964) Finally, do not overtighten the tube or you WILL break it off. Just finger snug.

Most of the threads that reference Cubic's datewheels contain disclaimers (from those who purchased them) warning that, contrary to the pics on their website, the date wheels they are shipping out have closed 6s & 9s. However, as others have said, the Noob is a copy of a current model, which uses closed 6/9 fonts on its datewheel, so you should be fine. Guidelines for Rolex Datewheel colors Steel watches always have datewheels with a white background Yellow gold & two-tone watches always have datewheels with a champagne (tan/yellowish) background If you are looking at a gen & it does not follow these guidelines, then it is either not a gen or the movement has been recased. This is 1 of the few rules for which I have yet to see an (proven) exception.

Finding floral flora fitting a foto in fall is a formidable feat (but I did)

Kudos to Josh.

Since the watch just became available yesterday, I doubt that anyone here has 1. There are also 3 or 4 existing threads about this, so instead of beginning yet another 1, you ought to search out the previous threads.

Yes, that is 1 of the problems with Josh's new DRSD (wrong metal color) & 1 of the great things about Yuki's bracelet (right metal color).

Good sighting, Nanuq. But I have to admit that this rep has so many other inaccuracies (the most salient of which, to me, is its too-silvery, cheap-looking metal) that I never even bothered to look at the crown position.

Remember the adage - If you want it done right, do it yourself. Phong's (J&W), NDtrading & Yuki all use essentially the same component sources in their watches. The primary difference is price (Yuki is often cheapest). If you are unable to build a watch yourself, then these assembled frankens are a great alternative. However, you should beware that, like rep watches themselves, QC, from what I have seen (& I am sure Ziggy will concur), is next to non-existent from any of these commercial franken builders. Further, whenever a corner can be cut during assembly, it usually is......& not in ways that a proper watchmaker (or knowledgeable watch collector) would exactly appreciate. With this in mind, I would recommend that if you plan to buy an assembled franken, also plan to have it fully serviced by a professional watchmaker as soon as it arrives. This will allow you to catch most potential disasters before they occur (or before the seller's guarantee runs out) & help to insure a long, serviceable life.

Thanks All.

GMT for Wednesday (forgot to reset the date, which should read '21')

In this pic, you can just about make out the side-ways 's' (in the lower/reflected image) in the bottom opening of the coronet For anyone else who is considering swapping crystals in these reps, let me add that the rep gasket, which I had to re-use, deforms a bit when the crystal is reinstalled. So its already limited moisture retardant abilities will be further reduced afterward. This is definitely NOT a watch that I would swim or shower with.

No. Mine is a chs from the initial run that was released in mid-2008. Swiss 2836-2. Read this - I paid cost.

Still Tuesday night here, but tomorrow will be either my chs or beater

Nice review, Lani, but I am far from impressed with the new rep. Of course, the pics may be at fault, but, to me, the steel looks cheap (not more dense), the crystal refracts light in an odd (non-gen) way & the dial is poor. All in all, since you still need to swap out the crystal & crown, if you cannot justify MBW prices, I think I like Josh's old rep better.

This is a continuation of Case Closed Yet again, contrary to advertised claims, the GMTIIC was not designed as a 1:1 copy of a gen GMTIIC. As you can see from this pic, the crystal gaskets differ significantly & it was impossible to fit the gen gasket. The gen gasket material is nearly 3 times taller & about twice as thick, which should provide a good watertight seal when installed properly. On the other hand, the rep gasket is puny & only just seals the crystal into the case. Fortunately, both crystals were the same size, so I was able to reuse the rep gasket & press the crystal into place without incident The gen xtal fitted along with gen Triplock & tube. The 'black hole' effect, while variable (it is much more profound when the watch is viewed (at the right angle) below a white halogen light source, which is what many ADs use above their watch cases), can be quite striking under optimum conditions. I shot the watch under some halogen ceiling lights to mimic the way the gen looks in ADs when I have auditioned it. As you can see, under the right circumstances, the effect is quite nice Crystal (& cyclops) height & latitude match the gen watch. As is often the case, the gen crystal has a slightly purer/clearer appearance vs the rep crystal Unfortunately, since Dell continues to delay shipment of my Canon macro lens, I cannot get a real tight shot of the laser etching to show you the tiny 's' that denotes a service crystal. But I was able to get a good shot of the laser etching itself A couple random thoughts - To pick up on 1 of Lani's comments, you would have to be crazy to swim with these watches due to the tiny crystal gaskets & ease with which they can be removed & installed (installing this crystal turned out to be child's play compared to most plastic crystals). The other thing I would say is that due to the fact that the 'black hole' effect requires a bit of work to achieve (most of the time, my 'new' watch looks just like the 'old' watch) & lack of awareness of the existence of the AR within the Rolex service community, I do not think GMTIIC owners should fret over their rep's missing AR. The too-wide rep crown & inaccurate ROLEXROLEXROLEX etchings that run around the circumference of the inner case flange (rehaut) are more significant give-aways than is the missing AR on the cyclops since the AR only really reveals itself under the right type of light & when the crystal is at just the right angle to that light. Still, & before anyone asks, I plan to keep the gen crystal right where it is. I would also like to thank everyone who has contributed to the wealth of information we have gathered for this truly Super Rep. Lani & Chief, especially, deserve kudos for all of their hard work on the original AR project. Hopefully, a scheme will be worked out to replicate the gen crystal without alot of fuss or pain.

Nanuq is right. 1 of the biggest inaccuracies with many reps of vintage Rolex watches is the too-fast beat of their modern movements (the other big inaccuracy is the bright glow of lume that would have long-ago dimmed to darkness on a gen watch). The 157x used in many vintage Subs & SDs beats at 19.8k bph versus 28.8k bph of modern Subs & SDs (& the ETAs used in reps). So, if anything, you would want to swap the movement out for the slower ETA 2846, which beats at a more leisurely 21.6k bph. Because they were discontinued some time ago, you will probably need to buy it used (ebay or some watch parts suppliers).

Thanks for posting this. There was no 'Clamping ring' in the package with the crystal & 2 gaskets. I have not taken my watch apart yet, so I do not know if there is a Clamping ring or exactly what it is 'clamping' (the bezel or the crystal)? But, from the picture, it looks like the Clamping ring is part of the bezel & not the crystal. But, again, since I have not removed the bezel on my watch (& do not plan to), I am not sure?

I got 1 of Andrew's drsds a couple of years ago & it came with a silver (not brushed) dw (lower left). But, more importantly, it was 1 of the few aftermarket dials that got the shape of the date window correct

Nice watch, but I do not think it is accurate enough (in stock form, few reps ever are) to worry about the movement. If/when the movement dies, then you might consider replacing with an ETA. But as many of the ETAs (in reps) are now Asian copies, the jury is still out as to whether the Asian ETAs are upgrades or just lateral moves.

Ditto Lani. Eurotimez is an honest seller.

Sorry, Lani, you lost me? I do not have a gasket in my pic (I am only holding the crystal) & who is ZM?

To paraphrase Microsoft - How deep do you wanna go today? I went very deep.

The flange is slightly different (more angular), but the basic shape is the same so I am certain that it installs the same way (with its narrower lower flange fitting within the gasket) Unfortunately, the watchmaker I received the crystal from wanted me to send the watch to him for installation. He agreed to let me install it with the understanding that I have experience installing Rolex sapphire crystals.