freddy333

Thank you & I think you are right.........at least I hope so.

A fine collection, Corgi.

This is a fairly common problem that affects alot of rep and non-high end movements. You will probably find that there is a bit of 'play' in the stem/keyless words and this is the source for the apparent non movement of the hand sometimes right after you set the time. Generally, you may find that if the last movement you made to adjust the hand was in a clockwise direction and you did not have to do any back-and-forth fine-tuning, the hand should run normally after you press the stem back in. Actually, I may have that backwards -- it may be counter-clockwise -- but I think you get the idea.

After ruminating for some time over the idea of upgrading the dial in my 116520 Daytona with one of the dials that comes in some of the newer reps (these have more accurate fonts & subdials), I finally broke down & ordered a new 116520 from Josh about 10 days ago. The watch arrived yesterday and after an uneventful dial swap, I think my 3.5 year old 116520 (with low profile case, modded CGs & gen crown/tube/pushers) now lacks all the obvious rep sins & I could not be happier with the results. So unless someone spots something that I missed, I think I may be pretty close to done. Opinions? For its coming out, the 2 of us attended a Christmas party last night

Yeah, me too, but for a different reason -- I have to get one of those cameras. Canons new point and shoots take truly amazing pictures.

From last night's Christmas party

What happens when someone hands you a camera at a Christmas party & asks you to take a picture (of them)? You take 1 picture of the person that handed you the camera & another couple of your watch (which just underwent a dialectomy (installed new dial) hours before)

Merry Christmas everyone

The additional gearing required for the secs at 6 Daytonas causes additional drag on the movement whenever the watch is running - with or without the chronos. My oldest is about 3.5 years and still runs great, but I think the key to its longevity is that it is rarely worn. I wind it fully (40 turns) once/month or so just to keep the lubricants from gumming up and that seems to have worked since none of my secs at 6 Daytonas have stopped running

A Datejust day

I hope the sudden silence (and lack of pictures) from the original poster is due to the holiday weekend & not because of a sudden realization that the coveted watch has been found to be less than what it may at first have seemed.

I meant to chime in on this when it was originally posted, but I ran into computer problems & then forgot about it. I think having that gen riveted bracelet on the watch overshadows/masks its other inaccuracies (rehaut, etc.) & gives it alot more credibility. It is similar to having the correct pusher arrangement on the 7750-powered DW 6263 on the right in this picture. The odd asymmetry of the pushers on this watch (like the odd (by today's standards) riveting of the bracelet on your watch) tends to draw the eye away from the watch's more mundane inaccuracies

That is not a mistake, Predfan, it looks like you hit the bullseye to me. You might spend some time going through the TZ Rolex archives.......you will see alot of gen Subs that look similar.

Good, that is encouraging.

If you can provide the following 2 items, I can probably direct you to a reliable pricing guide: 1. A good, clear picture of the watch viewed directly from the front, to include the entire dial and the winding stem and 2 pushers. Fuzzy or dark pictures taken with phones or unfamiliar cameras will result in, at best, an equally imprecise value for your watch. 2. Answer this question (without any assistance from other members please): Is your father's watch self-winding, battery-operated or does it need to be wound manually to run?

The hands not resetting may be due to the wands being loose on the hand tubes -- a very common problem -- I have had to epoxy several loose Daytona hands to get them to reset properly.

Daywear Eveningwear C'est si bon.

I hate to upset the apple cart, but the watches in the picture only reflect a portion of Zane's Daytona collection. He has a number of current and vintage models in addition to those. As far as I know, there are no exact duplicates. Each watch has a minor difference. Maybe one day, he will use them as stocking stuffers (and still have too many to wear).

Alot of the levers in these movements may appear bent, but are in fact not. So be careful about what you point the finger at. You could end up putting another movement in the watch & end up with the same problems after you install it in the case. Always test the movement OUT of the case to see if the movement itself is the problem. Most of the chrono problems I have run across with these movements are related to the case/caseback or to something I bent/damaged while modding. Always test the movement OUT of the case before taking steps to correct or replace anything. I fit a gen crown/tube, folded link 7835/357 bracelet & Ofrei pushers onto this (de-rotored) 7750 (I decided not to replace the crystal (yet) as the original actually looks quite like the early T21s that came on the gens) I do not have the right type of scale to do any accurate measurements, but I am sure the DW V72 with gen bracelet, crown/tube & crystal is equal or very close to the weight of the gen. Unless you want to advertise your watch as a franken or fake, I would not put a caseback sticker on the caseback. It is nearly impossible that a 20+ year old watch would still have a sticker on it. But if you do, it would have to be a gen sticker since I have never seen an accurate vintage sticker of the type that originally came on gen 62xx Daytonas.

Meguiar's

2 likely possibilities - either the chrono gearing is out of alignment (difficult to diagnose without having the movement in front of me to play with) or the small 'U' shaped spring that retards the reset clutch has slipped out of place. For the former, you may be able to figure out what the problem is by gently pressing the start/stop (top) pusher to see where the problem is. For the latter, you will need to remove the dial and top 2 cover plates (the uppermost plate screws into the lower plate and some of the extra secs at 6 gears are contained within the 'sandwich') and then reconnect the 'U' spring around the clutch lever. While there, you should also check the condition of the white nylon brake that presses against the hour totalizer gear as this is what ultimately holds the hour totalizer hand stationary when the chrono is OFF. I included some clear pictures of the assembly in 1 of my previous posts regarding the 7750 Daytona. This may help.

If it did not contain a gen 1575, I would definitely have thought it was a rep or franken. As it is, you might consider posting pics on TZ to get some more knowledgeable second opinions. The 1675 is not one of my strong areas.

I think he said the movement is a 7750 with the rotor removed.

The last set of (used 703s, but very good condition) Triplocks I bought on the bay cost $120 for a baker's dozen (13 crowns). I do not remember the seller's name, but he pops up from time to time with similar deals. He has a history of over 2,000 sales of watch related items. And before anyone asks, they have all either been used in watches or parted out. I do not have any extras at this time. Sorry.