freddy333

I meant to chime in on this when it was originally posted, but I ran into computer problems & then forgot about it. I think having that gen riveted bracelet on the watch overshadows/masks its other inaccuracies (rehaut, etc.) & gives it alot more credibility. It is similar to having the correct pusher arrangement on the 7750-powered DW 6263 on the right in this picture. The odd asymmetry of the pushers on this watch (like the odd (by today's standards) riveting of the bracelet on your watch) tends to draw the eye away from the watch's more mundane inaccuracies

That is not a mistake, Predfan, it looks like you hit the bullseye to me. You might spend some time going through the TZ Rolex archives.......you will see alot of gen Subs that look similar.

Good, that is encouraging.

If you can provide the following 2 items, I can probably direct you to a reliable pricing guide: 1. A good, clear picture of the watch viewed directly from the front, to include the entire dial and the winding stem and 2 pushers. Fuzzy or dark pictures taken with phones or unfamiliar cameras will result in, at best, an equally imprecise value for your watch. 2. Answer this question (without any assistance from other members please): Is your father's watch self-winding, battery-operated or does it need to be wound manually to run?

The hands not resetting may be due to the wands being loose on the hand tubes -- a very common problem -- I have had to epoxy several loose Daytona hands to get them to reset properly.

Daywear Eveningwear C'est si bon.

I hate to upset the apple cart, but the watches in the picture only reflect a portion of Zane's Daytona collection. He has a number of current and vintage models in addition to those. As far as I know, there are no exact duplicates. Each watch has a minor difference. Maybe one day, he will use them as stocking stuffers (and still have too many to wear).

Alot of the levers in these movements may appear bent, but are in fact not. So be careful about what you point the finger at. You could end up putting another movement in the watch & end up with the same problems after you install it in the case. Always test the movement OUT of the case to see if the movement itself is the problem. Most of the chrono problems I have run across with these movements are related to the case/caseback or to something I bent/damaged while modding. Always test the movement OUT of the case before taking steps to correct or replace anything. I fit a gen crown/tube, folded link 7835/357 bracelet & Ofrei pushers onto this (de-rotored) 7750 (I decided not to replace the crystal (yet) as the original actually looks quite like the early T21s that came on the gens) I do not have the right type of scale to do any accurate measurements, but I am sure the DW V72 with gen bracelet, crown/tube & crystal is equal or very close to the weight of the gen. Unless you want to advertise your watch as a franken or fake, I would not put a caseback sticker on the caseback. It is nearly impossible that a 20+ year old watch would still have a sticker on it. But if you do, it would have to be a gen sticker since I have never seen an accurate vintage sticker of the type that originally came on gen 62xx Daytonas.

Meguiar's

2 likely possibilities - either the chrono gearing is out of alignment (difficult to diagnose without having the movement in front of me to play with) or the small 'U' shaped spring that retards the reset clutch has slipped out of place. For the former, you may be able to figure out what the problem is by gently pressing the start/stop (top) pusher to see where the problem is. For the latter, you will need to remove the dial and top 2 cover plates (the uppermost plate screws into the lower plate and some of the extra secs at 6 gears are contained within the 'sandwich') and then reconnect the 'U' spring around the clutch lever. While there, you should also check the condition of the white nylon brake that presses against the hour totalizer gear as this is what ultimately holds the hour totalizer hand stationary when the chrono is OFF. I included some clear pictures of the assembly in 1 of my previous posts regarding the 7750 Daytona. This may help.

If it did not contain a gen 1575, I would definitely have thought it was a rep or franken. As it is, you might consider posting pics on TZ to get some more knowledgeable second opinions. The 1675 is not one of my strong areas.

I think he said the movement is a 7750 with the rotor removed.

The last set of (used 703s, but very good condition) Triplocks I bought on the bay cost $120 for a baker's dozen (13 crowns). I do not remember the seller's name, but he pops up from time to time with similar deals. He has a history of over 2,000 sales of watch related items. And before anyone asks, they have all either been used in watches or parted out. I do not have any extras at this time. Sorry.

A Patek-a-day makes the meetings ok

So then I guess you will not be needed another one........ And, anyhow, I thought we were finally rid of the likes of you once and for all. Seriously, RG, you are one of the pillars of this community & I hope the 'break' will bring you back to your senses and allow you to renew your energy stores for the future battles with watches (& nit-wits) to come. A safe & happy one to you and yours. D

The caseback is probably coming into contact with either the pusher assembly or the arm that controls the lower pusher. To verify, remove the movement from the case and be sure the chrono is OFF. The hour subdial hand should then be fine. If it is, then reinstall the movement into the case without the caseback & see how it is then. If it stays put, then the problem is the caseback coming into contact with the sides of the movement and either you installed the caseback too tightly (if you are using a caseback press/wrench, just make it snug, do not tighten it with the tool) or you will need to file or dremel the caseback a bit at the point of contact. Be careful not to damage the caseback threads, or you will have trouble reassembling the caseback. If the hour sub dial starts moving with the caseback removed, then either the lower pusher is pressing on the pusher lever when the pusher is off or the movement is not sitting in the case properly. Any or all of the above have been problems that I have found with these cases. There seems to be a bit of inconsistency of painting techniques used on the chrono hands on the gens. The center chrono seconds hand is usually (though not always) painted a contrasting color to the background color of the dial. If the background color of the dial is black, the chrono seconds is usually white. Sometimes, only the tip is painted & the rest of the hand is left unpainted. And then there are those very rare red-painted center chrono seconds hands.........but best not open that can of worms here. Remember, these things require ALOT of patience -- even the fully-assembled units (which share the same case components with the V72 kits) can make a grown man cry.

The large, centrally-located second hand is part of the chrono and should only start moving when the top (start/stop) pusher is pressed. Press the (top) pusher to stop the chrono second hand. Once the chrono is stopped, the bottom pusher resets all 3 chrono hands (the large centrally-located seconds hand & the minute & hour totalizer subdials at 3 & 6, respectively). Between the 2 dials, I think the 7750 is the more accurate, color wise. The subdial placement is obviously more accurate on the V72 dial, but, overall, I think the 7750 dial is the better of the 2. The loose pusher is a known problem with some of these cases. I had to replace the pushers in 1 of my DW cases with Ofrei's pushers, which are slightly larger (the portion of the pusher body that screws into the case) and better built. The stuck pusher could be due to the pusher being misaligned or the chrono gears being out of alignment. It could also be due to the fact that the chrono is in operation. Press the top pusher and be sure the center chrono seconds hand has stopped, then press the bottom pusher, which should reset all of the chrono hands back to their null (12 o'clock) position. _________ UPDATE -- I just noticed that the "A"s in DAYTONA on the 7750 dial are wrong (too pointy), which is a bit odd since the factory got them correct on my 7750's 6263 dial

No, I need alot of mass. I want to sink the White House

Hell yeah, get them in the mail asap.

And to answer the next likely question, the tracking info will probably remain at its current status until the day (or day before) the watch arrives on your doorstep. Apparently, incoming tracking of packages from some countries does not update in real time in the US.

Did anyone notice that the watch is backward? For an extra mil, I should probably shoot the photographer too (if I can find him)

Deal. Please send them to: 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue Washington, DC 20500 Attn: Barney

I Will Shoot This Watch

Link is not working. Can you post the auction number?

I suppose these watches could be repaints, but I doubt it