freddy333

Daywear Eveningwear C'est si bon.

I hate to upset the apple cart, but the watches in the picture only reflect a portion of Zane's Daytona collection. He has a number of current and vintage models in addition to those. As far as I know, there are no exact duplicates. Each watch has a minor difference. Maybe one day, he will use them as stocking stuffers (and still have too many to wear).

Alot of the levers in these movements may appear bent, but are in fact not. So be careful about what you point the finger at. You could end up putting another movement in the watch & end up with the same problems after you install it in the case. Always test the movement OUT of the case to see if the movement itself is the problem. Most of the chrono problems I have run across with these movements are related to the case/caseback or to something I bent/damaged while modding. Always test the movement OUT of the case before taking steps to correct or replace anything. I fit a gen crown/tube, folded link 7835/357 bracelet & Ofrei pushers onto this (de-rotored) 7750 (I decided not to replace the crystal (yet) as the original actually looks quite like the early T21s that came on the gens) I do not have the right type of scale to do any accurate measurements, but I am sure the DW V72 with gen bracelet, crown/tube & crystal is equal or very close to the weight of the gen. Unless you want to advertise your watch as a franken or fake, I would not put a caseback sticker on the caseback. It is nearly impossible that a 20+ year old watch would still have a sticker on it. But if you do, it would have to be a gen sticker since I have never seen an accurate vintage sticker of the type that originally came on gen 62xx Daytonas.

Meguiar's

2 likely possibilities - either the chrono gearing is out of alignment (difficult to diagnose without having the movement in front of me to play with) or the small 'U' shaped spring that retards the reset clutch has slipped out of place. For the former, you may be able to figure out what the problem is by gently pressing the start/stop (top) pusher to see where the problem is. For the latter, you will need to remove the dial and top 2 cover plates (the uppermost plate screws into the lower plate and some of the extra secs at 6 gears are contained within the 'sandwich') and then reconnect the 'U' spring around the clutch lever. While there, you should also check the condition of the white nylon brake that presses against the hour totalizer gear as this is what ultimately holds the hour totalizer hand stationary when the chrono is OFF. I included some clear pictures of the assembly in 1 of my previous posts regarding the 7750 Daytona. This may help.

If it did not contain a gen 1575, I would definitely have thought it was a rep or franken. As it is, you might consider posting pics on TZ to get some more knowledgeable second opinions. The 1675 is not one of my strong areas.

I think he said the movement is a 7750 with the rotor removed.

The last set of (used 703s, but very good condition) Triplocks I bought on the bay cost $120 for a baker's dozen (13 crowns). I do not remember the seller's name, but he pops up from time to time with similar deals. He has a history of over 2,000 sales of watch related items. And before anyone asks, they have all either been used in watches or parted out. I do not have any extras at this time. Sorry.

A Patek-a-day makes the meetings ok

So then I guess you will not be needed another one........ And, anyhow, I thought we were finally rid of the likes of you once and for all. Seriously, RG, you are one of the pillars of this community & I hope the 'break' will bring you back to your senses and allow you to renew your energy stores for the future battles with watches (& nit-wits) to come. A safe & happy one to you and yours. D

The caseback is probably coming into contact with either the pusher assembly or the arm that controls the lower pusher. To verify, remove the movement from the case and be sure the chrono is OFF. The hour subdial hand should then be fine. If it is, then reinstall the movement into the case without the caseback & see how it is then. If it stays put, then the problem is the caseback coming into contact with the sides of the movement and either you installed the caseback too tightly (if you are using a caseback press/wrench, just make it snug, do not tighten it with the tool) or you will need to file or dremel the caseback a bit at the point of contact. Be careful not to damage the caseback threads, or you will have trouble reassembling the caseback. If the hour sub dial starts moving with the caseback removed, then either the lower pusher is pressing on the pusher lever when the pusher is off or the movement is not sitting in the case properly. Any or all of the above have been problems that I have found with these cases. There seems to be a bit of inconsistency of painting techniques used on the chrono hands on the gens. The center chrono seconds hand is usually (though not always) painted a contrasting color to the background color of the dial. If the background color of the dial is black, the chrono seconds is usually white. Sometimes, only the tip is painted & the rest of the hand is left unpainted. And then there are those very rare red-painted center chrono seconds hands.........but best not open that can of worms here. Remember, these things require ALOT of patience -- even the fully-assembled units (which share the same case components with the V72 kits) can make a grown man cry.

The large, centrally-located second hand is part of the chrono and should only start moving when the top (start/stop) pusher is pressed. Press the (top) pusher to stop the chrono second hand. Once the chrono is stopped, the bottom pusher resets all 3 chrono hands (the large centrally-located seconds hand & the minute & hour totalizer subdials at 3 & 6, respectively). Between the 2 dials, I think the 7750 is the more accurate, color wise. The subdial placement is obviously more accurate on the V72 dial, but, overall, I think the 7750 dial is the better of the 2. The loose pusher is a known problem with some of these cases. I had to replace the pushers in 1 of my DW cases with Ofrei's pushers, which are slightly larger (the portion of the pusher body that screws into the case) and better built. The stuck pusher could be due to the pusher being misaligned or the chrono gears being out of alignment. It could also be due to the fact that the chrono is in operation. Press the top pusher and be sure the center chrono seconds hand has stopped, then press the bottom pusher, which should reset all of the chrono hands back to their null (12 o'clock) position. _________ UPDATE -- I just noticed that the "A"s in DAYTONA on the 7750 dial are wrong (too pointy), which is a bit odd since the factory got them correct on my 7750's 6263 dial

No, I need alot of mass. I want to sink the White House

Hell yeah, get them in the mail asap.

And to answer the next likely question, the tracking info will probably remain at its current status until the day (or day before) the watch arrives on your doorstep. Apparently, incoming tracking of packages from some countries does not update in real time in the US.

Did anyone notice that the watch is backward? For an extra mil, I should probably shoot the photographer too (if I can find him)

Deal. Please send them to: 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue Washington, DC 20500 Attn: Barney

I Will Shoot This Watch

Link is not working. Can you post the auction number?

I suppose these watches could be repaints, but I doubt it

Based on the pictures, seller's asking price & overall story, my gut tells me there is something amiss here (you can buy rep or gen Rolex boxes & paperwork all over the web these days, so showing those in the mediocre pictures does not move me). To paraphrase Alligoat -- buy the seller before you buy the watch. If the seller has a long history of successful high end watch sales in similar or higher price ranges, that would give me more confidence. If not, then I would follow Alligoat's recommendation of basing the sale on the seller's willingness to have the watch authenticated by a knowledgeable & experienced (in Rolex watches) third party.

The watch is owned by one of the more senior & well respected TZ members and there is a good deal of documentation indicating that the Rolex factory had themselves repainted the red on top of white lettering on some of the DRSD dials. I think there is even a blurb about this on doubleredseadweller somewhere. But, to me, it looks as gen as anything can possibly look when viewed on a computer monitor.

Great pic, Nanuq. Gen (on left) vs MBW (on right).

I am not especially fond of the strap (I prefer an Oyster bracelet), but the owner of one of the most beautiful gen Double Reds just posted this shot on TZ & the image is so striking that I thought the members might appreciate seeing it here. This is a prime example of what a gen Double Red should look like & it provides a good benchmark to compare your rep or franken against since the MBW Double Red was probably based on this version I do not have a pic of a stock MBW in a similar pose, but here is an older pic of my modded MBW for comparison The 3 most obvious inaccuracies on the MBW dial are the pointy 'A' fonts & the color and spacing of SEA-DWELLER (strangely, the color of the screen font I just selected to display the words 'SEA-DWELLER' looks more like the gen than the MBW does). As you can see, the tracking is tighter on the gen font and the color contrasts considerably better against the dial's (faded) black background. I have often heard the red color used on Double Reds and Red Subs referred to as being very dark, nearly the color of blood. But I think the MBW more closely fits that color description than the gen does. The gen's brighter, almost orangey. Anyway, if the factory could improve just those 3 details (without screwing something else on the dial up), I think that would be a significant step forward. And by the sullen look on his face, it appears that Groucho came to the same conclusion......if only...........

Golfman - Nice Steinhart. Love the case & tools. It even has my number (333). For me, serious work requires a serious watch