freddy333

(I see the text formatting functions have returned to the edit screen today) Welcome Craig. If you want a good (looks like the real thing for a reasonable cost) out-of-the-box Sub, get the Noob. If you have some watchmakers tools, time, experience (or are willing to pay someone else who has these things) & plan to modify the watch beyond its original state, then I would get the MBW. The Noob looks more like the real thing, but does not easily accept genuine Rolex parts, so what you see (when it arrives) is mostly what you will remain with. The MBW has a technically more reliable movement (the ETA) and will accept many genuine Rolex parts (crystal, crown, crown tube), so you can improve many of its shortcomings and, having done all of this, you can end up with an even more accurate watch than the Noob. But, depending on who does the work & how much work you have done, you could end up spending double or triple the original cost of the watch. The choice is yours.

Thanks Avitt. I used Devcon 2-part 'Plastic Steel' epoxy with a similar procedure on this But I got glue in the tube hole and had to broach it out (not an easy task broaching through epoxy). I was hoping there might be another (easier to apply) glue out there. I guess I will just have to improve my gluing methods.

Funny, because all of the stats I have seen seem to suggest just the opposite -- that relatively few professional divers, these days, wear a Rolex (or other luxury diving watch) when diving. Most wear a cheap digital because they offer more features & functions, are able to work under similar pressures, are more accurate & cheap/easy to replace when they get scratched/dented/damaged during work. It is different today than it was back in the 1960's or 1970's, when Subs & Seadwellers were about the only option for reliable time keeping under extreme conditions.

I must not have fully acclimated to it yet, because I find it hard to ignore. It is like the advertisements that broadcasters put in the corners of our tv screens during all programming (except for the commercials, which remain 100% clutter free). They do not seem to bother some people, but they drive me nuts.

I agree with Pug. Whenever you are doing anything that involves the removal of metal, you should completely disassemble the case. Remove the movement, crystal and crown tube. Otherwise, you risk either damaging one of these other parts or they will throw off your mods because they get in the way of your tools.

Is it just me or have some of the functions (bold, italics, add link, add photo, etc.) vanished from the post/reply screen? And the Edit button no longer offers Full and Quick edit options -- clicking it just goes to a blank edit screen. I added these bold & italics manually As to the question of loose hands and repairs, I have not had much luck with glue or fingernail polish. At some point, it comes apart again. So I have been going the staking route, even though I have destroyed 2 hands that way (1 of which is the chrono seconds hand on my 116520). What type of glue are you all using?

My daily Daytona on a friend's wrist And here it is on mine _________ Is it me, or are some of the functions missing from the post/reply screen?

Took a friend to see 'Enchanted' this evening, but she wanted to stop for a picture before the movie started. I told her I wanted to get a picture of the 6263. So, without batting an eye, she grabs the watch, puts it on her wrist (the wrong way..........women) & told me to snap the pic For a while, I was not sure whether I would get it back or not. Good movie.

Yes, that looked about right.

Correct (mono).

I think a smaller & simpler Patek or VC would be considered de rigueur even for black tie. I am no authority on the formalities of formality, but I think the general convention for black tie (or any formal dress event) is that 'they should see you & not your watch'. I read somewhere that, technically, when wearing a tux (black tie), a gentleman should limit his jewelry to a wedding band, cufflinks, studs & a pocketwatch 'of simple design', discreetly tucked into a waistcoat pocket so as not to be seen. I think I got this from one of Alan Flusser's books (he provided the wardrobes for the movie, 'Wall Street'). Whatever you wear, be careful not to get your stem stuck in Paltrow's jewels.

1st & read this.

Actually, it IS her post count that is partly the issue here, but I have hit my limit on this stuff. I trust the moderators will moderate the situation in an equitable manner so we can all get back to winding our mainsprings. Yes?

Was it discussed with VB via PM as a 1st step?

And speaking of straps.........I just received this nearly new 7835/357 folded link from Andy for the 6263 Yes, it has subdial issues, but all of the criticisms I have received so far (during my travels in the wild) related either to the crystal (which I thought looked at least passable.....it looks similar to the original semi-superdome fitted to early 62xx Daytonas.....but it will soon be replaced with a beveled gen T21) or the cheesy rep bracelet (which, as you can see, has been replaced with a gen).

I cannot really disagree, in principle, with the gist of Andrew's initial post. I have been thinking much along the same lines myself -- the fluff factor has been pegging the meters a bit & it is difficult to have to repeatedly scroll half way through so many threads just to get to the watch talk. However, in VB's defense, I think most would agree that VB's watch-related input is insightful and useful. She is quick-witted, intelligent, gets the watch 'thing' & brings a much-needed female perspective to this hobby. Where I do take exception with Andrew's post is the post itself. Were it me, I would have voiced my concerns privately & respectfully via PM. Or, at least, I would have made the attempt to work things out privately through a moderator before taking things public. My guess is that the problem would have been solved, invisibly & without any friction.

I have found that some rep crowns come into contact with the case before they screw all the way down onto the tube. This, of course, allows moisture & dust to enter the case. And if you do not specifically check for this, it is hard to tell just by looking at the watch. After discovering this on the 2nd rep I tested, I started installing tubes a bit further out from the case than you would normally see on a new watch (but I have alot of pictures of vintage gens from TZ & Antiquorum that appear this way)

Phong has some great stuff (and not so great stuff), but most of it is way overpriced. I have gotten a few gen crystals from him that were reasonable & promptly delivered.

Whenever you see pictures that cannot be seen (too blurry, too small, etc.), especially of a movement (the most expensive part of a gen watch), the red flags should go up. This watch may be many things, but genuine is not one of them. Stay away.

Less an endorsement & more an answer to your question. The book is pretty good, but a bit dated since it has not been updated for a few years. But I think it is good reading since it covers a number of popular brands/models & provides basic guides and recommendations that are still useful. The author even references some of the content in RWG (reviews, tech guides, etc.) on his website.

In need of an update, but here is the link

Daytona beater today

Stephane - So where were you when I sold the rest of them? But it is not just Beatle vinyls that are collectible. This (still sealed) CD is considerably rarer than any Butcher Cover vinyl Here is the story of this CD

Yes, 2 of them (at one time, many years ago, I had a baker's dozen). But the other one is a much rarer (and better condition) Stereo version, which I keep in the bank.

Yes and I was hoping the 2 pictures of rare LPs (I have more) would spark a General Discussion of some of the other things members collect in addition to watches (like LPs), but one of the quick-fingered moderators apparently decided the pictures trumped the conversation & moved my thread before I finished the text.