freddy333

3.5 years old & keeps nearly COSC time. Almost a year old & keeps nearly COSC time. 2 V72-powered DWs (left & right) & an Asian 7750-powered DW with asymmetrical pushers (center). And a few friends

Ziggy - I am trying to repair another secs at 6 Asian 7750 that has the same problem my secs at 9 7750 had (the hour totalizer continues to move when the chronograph is off). In this case, the problem continues when the movement is out of the case, so I know I am dealing with one of the components you mentioned above. I have removed the top plate of the movement & stopped here I know I need to remove the next plate/bridge as well as all of the gears here, but I wanted to check to see if there are any gotchas before I proceed? That is, can I just lift off each of the 8 gears and then remove the 3 screws & lift off the plate? And is reassembly just a reversal of the removal procedure? And just to be sure, am I correct that with these movements none of these gears or jewels gets any oil? ______________ As an aside - I have found that every one of these secs at 6 7750s have very 'twitchy' seconds hands. That is, instead of a 'sweeping' motion as the hand moves around the seconds subdial, the movement is quite erratic & stuttery. I know that using oil to lubricate the additional gearing for these relocated running seconds hands adds additional drag and friction, adding to the already overloaded movement. But I am wondering if you ever considered (or tried) using powdered graphite to lubricate the extra gearing since, being a dry (very fine powder) lubricant, it should not add as much (if any) additional drag as a liquid oil & might be useful in resurrecting some of the prematurely dead Daytonas?

I could have sworn I left that in my other watch.......

Wearing this today (One of the few that are still keeping near perfect time after nearly 3.5 years of strictly occasional use) But after seeing Narikaa's star-studded contribution, I think I may follow a similar suit (hold the jewels) for this evening's festivities

Nice work repaustria. Is that an ND dial? Great crown, but I am not so sure about their fonts. Some of the serifs in the small text look a little too blocky, like an American Old West font (think Bonanza) instead of what Rolex used. Sorry you need to sell the watch, Mickey. Tritium has been illegal to possess (with the exception of a limited number of highly regulated industrial applications) for years, so I would doubt there is any of it on your dial.

I started there too.

Welcome and sorry to hear things did not work out better. Like they say, so close yet so far........ What I think people forget is how civilians see watches. To the average person, a Sub is a Sub is a Sub is a Sub. Most of us, if our memories are good & we are willing to be honest, would not have been able to tell the difference between the watch your friend got and the real thing back when we started out. So the odds of your friend coming back with anything even approaching a quality Sub rep are about as remote as the odds of a non wine connoisseur picking out a rare wine from hundreds of table quality strains while blindfolded (and being pitched at constantly by people who are trying to get her to buy their particular brand of bottled sludge). Not likely. You might have improved your chances for success (a bit) if you had taken the time to educate your friend on the specific details to look for that separate the cream of the crop from the kind of thing she ended up with. Of course, that assumes that your friend would be willing to learn and remember what you tell her.

Not sure of the model, but it's a Patek.

Unusual for a workday - wearing one of the Newmans (got suckered in by my own advertising)

I think that makes more sense. But I will have to do some testing with the GC to see if it damages the paint. If not, gluing the hand directly to the dial would be alot easier.

Yes, the 'A's match, but the 'O' in ROLEX is wrong (the line should be thicker on the sides than the top/bottom), which, in my book, trumps the As. The 'O' is wrong on almost every non-gen Daytona dial I have seen (the 1 or 2 that got it close, screwed the rest of the text up even worse). Also, the part of the 'X' in ROLEX that begins at top left and draws down to bottom right should be much bolder (thicker) than the other side and most of the rep dials get this wrong as well. And here is the deal-breaker for every Newman - the bottom leg of the '3' in the minute totalizer (subdial at 3) on every gen Newman extends a bit beyond the top part. None of the rep dials get this right. Remember the rep rule - Always get at least 1 detail wrong.

Looks good, Avitt. I may end up likewise gluing the hand, but I worry that the GS might fade or damage the Fly's delicate black paint, which is already weaked with age. Of course, it will only be an issue if the hand falls off and takes some of the underlying paint on the dial with it. For that reason, I was trying to figure out a way to mount the hand to a small piece of pinion or tubing that I could then glue to the movement's pillar plate.

Do you know if he glued the hand directly to the dial face or did he fit the hand to a short piece of tube or pinion and then glue the tube/pinion to the movement below the dial? I have a V23 that I want to use to relaunch the Flytimer dial (which came with a V72 that now resides in one of the Daytonas) & I am looking at options for fitting the dummy hour totalizer hand.

Nice tmg. I never get tired of seeing these DWs, no matter what is ticking inside. Did the watch come with the hour totalizer frozen or did you have to do that? And if you did, what did you use?

It must be awfully embarrassing for your family to be seen in public with you while you are wearing that 'heap'.

A beauty. Wear it well.

Why not just visit your local AD. They should have a contact name and telephone number. And I am with Offshore....I would not use email to initiate your contact with them. Employment enquiries, even for temporary work, carry more weight if made by telephone or post.

Eek......how did I miss that??????

The bezel, but I do not see anything else that stands out?

Looks great, Kevin. And, like mine, even though the dial has issues, you still have to do a double-take to be sure it is not a gen because of those pushers. In fact, had I seen the watch in a different context and not known its source, I would still not be absolutely sure it was not a gen. The asymmetry of the pushers set these watches apart from all other reps (except for the DW/EE). As Euno pointed out to me some time ago, the black dialed versions tend to look better with the black bezel. So unless you really want the steel bezel, you might leave it as is. And these watches came (from Rolex) with any of 3 or 4 types (and variations) of chrono hands. Some were wide with pointed ends, some were narrow with pointed ends, some were narrow with flat ends & there were a smaller number that had 1 narrow flat ended hand for the running seconds and a matched pair of one of the other types for the other 2 hands. Here is an example of the latter option

Get yourself one of these Here is the link

Hope it works out. Please keep us posted.

At the risk of inflaming the already overheated passions of vintage Daytona fans, I thought I would deviate from posting a new wristie (since my camera is out of service with dead batteries anyway) and put the creative juices to work in the creation of some new (faux) Daytona advertisements instead. So, without further ado, may I present the.................... (Graphics are original, but portions of the text were pinched from a well-known auction site specializing in luxury watches) And just for fun......... If these are well-received, it might be fun to produce similar artwork for other brands & models. If nothing else, it would give members another outlet for exercising their creative & photographic skills.

When you first suggested a possible MBW connection, I went looking again. At first I thought you may be onto something, but then I noticed 2 things - first, the case looks thicker than the MBW, and second, the Hev is located a millimeter or so higher than on the MBW (and that is generally a sign of a gen case). So it may be just as the TZ gentleman claimed - a gen 1665 that was recased with gen parts in 1999, but unworn since that time.

Yes, the 7750 is auto-wind, which certainly makes the watch more user-friendly. But a manual-wind movement was specified for the 62xx Daytonas. The proposition was to swap the 7750 for a (manual-wind) 7760, which would also then allow for the shallower caseback to be fitted (your 7750 has a taller caseback to fit the auto-wind components). I removed the rotor on my 7750 to achieve a similar effect and then fit an extra DW (V72) caseback to bring the overall case height into proper spec (and match the V72 DW). But, otherwise, I think Alligoat's list is about correct.