freddy333

Ubi -- Are you sourcing the genuine vintage Sub and Sea-Dweller bezel inserts on ebay? If not, can you provide some info on a source (you can PM me if you want). Ofrei used to sell very gen looking vintage style pearls for about $13. With a bit of aging, they could be made to look exactly like a 30-40 year old gen pearl would look. But I do not see them listed on their site today.

He recently posted that he has a large backlog of email and is responding to as much as he can.

Beautiful watch. I wish I could track down the non-Oyster version of one of these. Attention Modders -- I think the case on this watch is the same one that is used for some of the current Pre Daytona reps. See my post earlier today about swapping Daytona bezels. I included a link to another watch with the same case.

Two part question -- 1. a. Will the bezel FROM this Daytona 6263 rep (case is 40mm dia x 10mm height) fit ON this Pre Daytona (case is 37mm dia x 12.5 height)? If not, anyone know where I can source one that will? b. Will the manual wind Venus chrono in the 6263 (which is installed with a plastic retaining ring around it) fit into the smaller Pre Daytona case? 2. How do you remove the bezels on both of these watches? I am considering getting one of those $175 Rolex bezel removers, but it is a bit expensive and I do not want to purchase it if it does not remove these two bezels. Until I can source a good DW Paul Newman with non-screw pushers, I decided to put a bit more effort into correcting a few of the remaining issues on my existing Venus based Paul Newman Currently, this watch has one of the larger 6263 style of cases, which is incorrect for the PN. That is (excluding the case back and bezel), it is both wider and taller than the gen Paul Newman case. Viewed from the side, the lugs are much too tall and do not come to narrow points as on the gen PN. However, I found that the case (excluding the bezel and case back) used on these Pre Daytona reps is almost exactly the same dimensions as the gen PNs. If I can swap bezel and transplant my Venus movement into the case, it will be a nice improvement. So I was wondering if anyone has tried this before? And what tool is required to r&r both bezels?

I will add my congratulations as well. I am always in awe of people who can justify the effort and high cost to source and purchase the parts required to produce such a brilliant result. Like Ubi has said, these watches are even better than the gens because you have built them yourself instead of buying something off-the-shelf.

If you can remove the case back -- It is easy. Just get a can of paint remover from your local hardware or auto parts shop. Lay the case back on a flat, non-painted surface (I used my stainless steel kitchen sink) and spray a good coat of paint remover all over the case back. Let it sit for several minutes and repeat if necessary. Then just rinse the paint remover off (along with the paint on the case back) and you are done. Simple, quick, easy and works every time. And great work kingkitesurf. Ofrei.com sells good inserts for about $35.

I have never repaired or disassembled a jubilee bracelet, but I know that alot of watchmakers and jewelers will work on them. As for a replacement, I have purchased 4 or 5 of thewatchprince.com's Milano Italian Oyster bracelets and had no trouble fitting the rep clasp to the Milano bracelet. The Milanos are excellent quality. However, instead of separating the clasp from the last link, I left the last link on both ends of the rep clasp and just connected the links to the end of the Milano bracelet. Alot easier than removing the pins between the clasp and links and then trying to refit them. I do not know if you can separate the jubilee links quite as easily, so you may have to remove the pins and move the clasp to the Milano bracelet without the links.

It is too bad he is so unreliable (for purchasers in the US), because 2 or 3 of his $300 vintage Daytonas have what appear to be correctly spaced pushers (asymmetrical) and I have not seen these offered by anyone else for that price and in an off-the-shelf watch (so you do not have to scout around for a dial here and a hand there, etc.).

I agree with edge, repaustria and sherrington. Looks like a standard MBW (which is nothing to sneeze at), but it definitely needs a better bezel insert. I would also lose the polish (looks great, but the watch is too clean & shiny for a 30-40 year old watch) and add a bit of wear for starters.

If the stem fell out, the movement will probably need to be looked at. The last time I tried to return a defective watch back to China, the post office told me that US customs will no longer permit a 'watch' (or anything with the word 'watch' in it) to be exported to China. The person at the post office even showed me in the customs regulations book where it states that the export of 'watches' are prohibited. I then asked the person at the post office if I could declare the watch as 'cuckoo clock parts' and she looked at me funny (since we both knew it was a watch) and then sent the package without any complaint. But you should probably check with the seller first if possible.

Great read Pho. I never came across this during my early searches around the archives, so I am glad it was pinned.

Thanks again, Euno. I guess the search for a DW continues.

Thank you. The lizard strap is vintage (and correct for a late 60's or early 70's watch) with a Rolex buckle. I have seen these types of lizard straps used in old Rolex advertisements and it just looks right for this watch. I have been debating whether to replace the original rep Triplock crown on this watch with a gen Twinlock, but since it does not have the correct asymmetrical pusher layout and the dial is a bit off (the lower subdial is too low and bleeds into the outer surround of the dial), I was not sure it made sense to put too much more time and money into it since I am still looking for a DW non-Oyster Daytona.

Yes, I think that was it. I would love to know more details about the engraving bit and the tool you used to re-engrave the case back. Whatever you did, it was a work of art. I remember looking at it and comparing to gen DRSD case backs and it looked absolutely flawless.

Beautiful trio Euno. Here is my non-Oyster Daytona in all of its Oysterless glory

I have had dealers (including 1 that is a watchmaker himself) tell me the same thing about the Asian 7750s that Ziggy said. Unless you just want a Swiss movement in your watch, there is no reason to replace the Asian movement. After proper servicing, the Asian movement usually runs just like the Swiss movement.

TJ -- Did you remove the movement from the case at any point? If so, remove the movement again and see if it runs ok out of the case.

Well done Fred.

But now that you mention it, I sure would like to track down a DW 6239 (steel bezel, black dial, no 'Daytona') since I got this Twinlock crown & tube specifically for it.

I was a bit confused, but I meant the Twinlock info for Euno and his 5513.

I may have lost track of which crown & tube are at the center of discussion here (apologies up front), but 6mm Twinlocks and tubes are available Watcher -- I do not know if this makes any difference in fitting a Triplock to your Daytona case, but in case it does -- I think the original Triplock was the 701 (the 702 was second generation). And I think Avitt is right about filing down the top end of the tube. If you have a tap, you should be able to repair any damaged threads from filing. This sounds like the best and easiest way to get the crown to fit closer to the case.

hahahahaha Please let us know how it goes if you do. Should be worth a chuckle or two.

Archi -- Are the initials of that store L&B and they sell Rolex? Not too long ago, I was visiting a friend in town that worked near the big Tysons mall there.

I am very sorry to hear that it did not work out, but I really appreciate the warning. Too bad, I really thought we may be onto something there. Back to the drawing board and the search for another DW I guess.

Euno -- I have a Venus/Lemania version, which I thought was the same as the Seagull and it has symmetrical (evenly spaced) pushers. Do you know of a source for a Seagull-based non-Oyster 6239 Daytona with asymmetrical (non-evenly spaced) pushers? And for less than $300? For me at least, the big selling point for the vintage Daytonas on this Japanese site is the fact that these watches DO have an asymmetrical pusher arrangement. And if you compare the $300 price to the cost (and time involved to locate all the parts) for a DW or EE, I do not see how you can say these are overpriced. Of course, this assumes that the watches on the Japanese site are what we think they are. Hopefully someone can provide more info or I will finally receive more from the site operator.