thewightstuff

haha, i always assume that with a gen, its to be expected somehow. though the only people that have commented have been somewhat annoying or lacking upstairs anyways. perhaps its more to do with their lack of social skills that they assume and stare loudly that it was bought in a holiday resort from a seller with "special gold" chains for sale also. wearing vintage avoids this quite spectacularly strangely enough. i cant decide if its also having no date mag but it always seems to just pass under everyones radar. i actually think that to those who do notice, it seems like its so fake that a comment is entirely wasted i had a fun chat outside the rolex AD yesterday with another gen owner on his lunch break. i was looking in before going in to try on a new SD when two guys stopped beside me and started commenting on the various models adding that i should buy the £65k gold and diamond DJ. i laughed about the look on my bank managers face when i went with a business plan for money that involved me just buying a hugely expensive watch. one then stated that it didnt look like it was worth the money then added, that one does though and pulled up his friends sleeve, who was wearing the same watch but with diamonds on the face too, and very real. he just laughed and joked that his had only been £10 from a market stall even though it was definately gen. i winked at him and asked him how many beetles he had had to replace to keep it going, adding that i was fed up putting them into my 40 year old 5512 and showed him. we all had a good chuckle and then discussed him wanting to buy one for his son but figuring it was best to keep the money for when the son tried to put him into a home later in life. all good fun. i really think that regardless of brand, many gen owners buy them for their own satisfaction and dont really care whether anyone notices or not, or whether they think they are fake or real. i know i love the character and more importantly the mechanics and engineering of mine. thats where my pleasure comes from and so a comment regarding its authenticity just gives me a smile. theres always going to be a section who want them for show and so this would have a great bearing on them and cause them to get hot under the collar however i very much think this is definately a small minority. IMHO having a rep called out when it was somehow smarts more. there would be, due to human nature, a feeling slightly of embarrasment irrespective of whether you actually cared or not, some mixed emotions if you have worked hard on it to get it close and no personal satisfaction about it actually being genuine regardless. the frustrating thing is that 90% of th time, this question regarding gen or not comes in the main, not from any actual insight into the small details the show it up but a more widely held scepticism of expensive watches from brands people have heard of. with this in mind, i always just completely ignore the question or make a joke about it unless it was a close friend regardless of whats on my wrist

easy mate, get a CWC quartz divers watch. they are the current issue watch for royal navy divers and replaced the rolex submariner. tritium dial and hands and a great watch with an ETA movement. they do a PVD finish SBS watch (uk water borne special forces, brother regiment to the SAS) also but it may be out of your budget its genuine, quite special/unique and a proper watch. if your in the US, you may try to grab a marathon SAR as used by the us coastguard etc. IMHO the CWC is superior. http://www.silvermans.co.uk/Silver/docs/pr...diverswatch.htm look here for specs, you can get nice gens on ebay though

i love that IWC, dead centre in the bottom row with the black rubber strap and yellow first 1/4

i know its a small detail and yet at the same time its for me at least, it sums up quite nicely why theres still so many flaws in these watches such as the sub and SD. its such a disappointment to see that the rubber oring continues to be housed in the case and not in the caseback as per the original. while it make no real difference, do you think they will ever change it? is this just symptomatic of the lack of real attention to detail used when making these. i dont assume its too much of a stretch to think that regardless of genuine accuracy the sub is probably still the biggest selling model. perhaps this is holding it back from getting fully there by removing the necessity

should have been this but no sign with the post yet....grrrrrrrrrr

you should have gone along george street and look at the lovely watches in the jewellers along there on the right hand side as you head towards the opposite end from harvey nichols. was in at the weekend and they had some nice pams including a gorgeous radiomir i was very tempted on despite clearing out my panerais.. also a nice collection of patek and rolex to name but a few.

ubi for me, though his seconds hand is too short and the hour one looks on the small side though it could be the spokes are too thick and creating this illusion. the print on the dial looks to be not white enough either. i would also have added hour hand curvature but its really hard to gauge from the pics. it feels off but who can say. the others have these plus which nudges ubi in front. edited as others posted while i was typing. are you sure thats a gen dial in gioarmanis?

just to add in, though not that its too important but the 580 was for the subs, 585 for the seadwellers and ive no idea what the 593 was from older subs used 280 or 380 before the jump to 580. who knows where 480 went

ubi, that seamaster 300 is beautiful with a capital B.

the ones in the link provided are exactly the same as the generic ones i decided were about the best around. these are nice quality but certainly not the same as gen ones. the gen ones are made better, its readily noticeable when you have them in your hand as they are just more solid, thicker metal and they are vastly longer, especially with regards to the retractable portion. it goes in with a smoother motion and sticks out further. whether the gens are worth the cost is a personal choice. to my mind its similar to the gen bracelets, once youve tried you cant go back. gen spring bars can be picked up used for $5-$10 a pair. at this price its crazy not to pick them up however getting a pair similar to those linked above are definately a step in the right direction. be prepared for a fight getting them to work with your bracelet though too.

17J in the 5513 on its way here, 26J in the 5512.

i wish the post would hurry up so i can put up pics of mine to keep it company..... i cant wait for my pair to be completed, SCOC and non SCOC

im finding it hard to go back to my stainless bracelet after getting a nato. found the plain black just too plain but have been readily enjoying the bond style. its often maligned but i do like it at the moment. as for the original post, i find the rivets too much for my own tastes but straps are a very personal thing. if you like it thats all that matters

are your holes drilled right the way through then? if so i'd really recommend trying to get some gens though ive had a few pairs from ebay that have been better than any ive gotten from stores, though the retractable portion was still shorter then the originals. gen bars go through and almost pop out the outside edge of the case, while all rep ones havent done this, leaving the holes empty and hollow. maybe someone will chime in with a good place for some. $6 or so will probably get you some good ones from ebay that will do the job other than the length part. have you drilled out your bracelet to fit the new thicker bars too? the main part is 2mm thick

id guess it would be very much a case of suck it and see. bezel inserts on subs should be pressure fit anyways requiring no adhesive. as such if you want to keep in there just a little better it can work well. i prefer some clear nail varnish on the underside if it needs something. for something requiring the glue to be the only source of securing then you could be right

definately hypo cement, strong enough to hold but wont permanently bond things for eternity if you try to remove them. loctite is for threads and secures for when you dont want something to unscrew itself, such as a crown tube.

you definately need a case back opener to make life easier. also if you are needing to heat it to free it, a hairdrier isnt going to give you enough. you will need to use a kitchen torch or the stove. just put the case back against the tip of the flame for a while while holding it with pliers or similar, drop it face down onto an oven mit and then use the opener to unscrew. im guessing the proper tool will see it come off relatively simply. though only reason for heat would be if someone had been kind enough to threadlock it. you will know when youve heated enough as you will smell the thread lock once it gives

rolex ones seem to be stornger and longer than regular rolex copy type spring bars and way more beefier than general watchmaker spring bars. they also dont have end stops to catch against the watch casing as they are instead designed to go right inside the lug holes. ive found copy rolex ones to be of varying quality in general terms and more importantly not long enough to go anything more than just slightly into the lug holes. if you arent bothered about the aesthetic side of things, or have a case without drilled through lug holes then generic version will be fine if you get ones of a decent quality and made out of stainless. they will certainly be more sturdy than the ones the reps come with from the dealers and that can only be a good thing

heres my monday......was hoping it would be a 5513 this week but its not appeared yet had a stainless 93150 on over the weekend but im enjoying the feel of a nato too much just now not the best pics but its the taking part that counts and they are passable under the conditions lol

ive yet to find any other than gen rolex items that cut it and ive tried many sources. theres plenty of rolex parts people who deal with bits and pieces and have spring bars readily available, your local AD may also have some if you can convince him. try posting an ad on timezone for some and you should get some readily.

ETA have a nice quartz readily available that should go in. the hands will be a bit tight but should be easily opened up a little. its the same as the gens use for the smaller model, with the larger ones having an automatic eta version. seriously though, WTF!!!!. given the price tag of these, standard ETAs really just dont cut it for me. maybe im too used to seeing the inhouse movements in my rolex but since getting into watches im left bewildered at what goes on with many "quality" brands. high end needs to have inhouse and unique movement IMHO....(rant over lol)

does anyone know how to remove the stem on a S.Epson VX12E quartz movement. i cant get it out no matter what i try and cant seem to see any release anywhere. i got a small data sheet off the web but it has everything except this

received a chanel J12 today to give as a present and depsite being assured of its swiss internals buy a trusted seller the function of the crown gave me some suspicions that this was not the case. opened it up to find it was a seiko epson vx12e quartz inside. given the short times left im trying to ge ahead of myself and consider what options i have to install a different movement, this time of swiss origin. do you know what options for quartz i have available? im not clued up on my non mechanical movements at all. what does the genuine chanel use inside it, this would be the best starting point but i cant find any info on it at all. while i'm on, how does the stem release on this movement, cant see anything obvious

not sure if it helps any but the recess in the gens for the crown tube isnt sloped but the sides run perfectly straight down. this allows the hole for the tube to be smaller than the size needed to drill for a countersunk. i have no idea how they do this but if you can think of a way it may limit overhang. if its going to overhang by quite a bit though. id use a regular countersunk hole. the crown tube will nestle into this snuggly and you wont notice much in the way of anything, even with the crown unscrewed except a little nick in the straight line of the case edge

great little tutorial and great pics. the flat top of the gen is something many people miss when changing out their pinions