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Ephry73

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Everything posted by Ephry73

  1. Ofrei's does too. More flat topped, or more like a service crystal. E
  2. YUP E
  3. 30.33mm normally, but make sure you use the same gasket, or get a crystal with the gasket and measure the rehaut. E
  4. This dial(Tudor Rose dial) I got from Chiman. It started life as a gloss dial and he did some Matte treatment to it. I removed that, relumed(with diluted lume for vintage effect) and made the dial look like it has been in this case for decades. The case is a Josh case with the "slimming" effect as well as the reshaping of the CGs. On the 1665 dial, it is a service dial(Gen) wth feet clipped and I added lume in a vintage concoction color I made to match the aged hands I already had. I am quite pleased with the end result, but wish I had a 1665 case and bezel to slap it in, as this will be a very nice DRSD with the faded red. Thanks for the compliments guys. Trevor is not responding to messages, but if they do, I will for sure order more of the cases for the 5514. I think for a 1665(even early thin one) the bezel is wrong, but for an early 5513 comex or 5514, it is just dead on. E
  5. Ok, so I faded the bezel, and polished the case. Aged the dial further and this is what I have. Thanks for looking. E
  6. Thanks Justin. I'm telling you, broken t-39s have a second wind with this. E
  7. It should accept either. The clarks may be a bit on the thick side. If you go to Ofrei, they have a t-19(their house brand) that is pretty decent for less than $9 bucks The SK/KS actually looks like the right crystal to use. Its more like a service crystal and very clear. E
  8. That will be a great thing and simple. E
  9. A few questions about this model: Best way to ensure water "tightness" and things to look for. What are the first things I should look for/Do? Spares, where to get? Best improvement to make on this model? Pictures of the post are not showing up, but it is quite old. I would love to see the comparison shots if you still have them Balti. Thanks. E
  10. Sorry clicked on add reply before picture was loaded. Strap and picture courtesy of MEISTERWERK MACHINE E
  11. I'm thinking of something like this perhaps lighter, perhaps darker oil stained. Strap and picture courtesy of Meisterwerk Machine E
  12. Working on finishing the watch tonight or tomorrow. Update: Sterile dial with date window from an Invicta 8926c and champagne date wheel. Dome crystal has been swapped for flat one with cyclops. Black NATO Fat font bezel insert Pics when complete E
  13. I see it there. Look just at 5 o'clock of the hour marker and right at 7 o'clock of the cyclops. E
  14. That's what holds the endlink to the bracelet-to the spingbar. The rivet bracelets I sourced have those. E
  15. No worries man. We all do that. I want something I can use for the Speedy and the Daytona. The PN is definitely a choice for the Daytona, but not sure how the bigger speedy will look on it. I have a few nice quality NATOs to use for sure. E
  16. Definitely. Of course, also, who paid for all of this? Tax payers, or company share holders? E
  17. Ah, yes, it is in the original post. I have NATO and G-10 straps already, but the Speedmaster has a different look than a sub. I am finishing a Daytona as well, so this is more for both of these chrono watches. E
  18. I like that. Donerix got some nice bund straps too E
  19. I wanted to know what everyone is using for Leather NATOs or Bund straps on their Speedmaster Omegas. The metal band is fine for the watch, but I'm looking for something like the NASA strap in leather. Thanks in advance. E
  20. That is one lovely strap. E
  21. Sent PM(late I know. Real late) E
  22. Now in need of a correct 1665 bezel. Anyone want to trade thin bezel for thick bezel? E
  23. If you're selling, I'm buying. It will be nice to put an explorer from some spares I have. E
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