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I have been searching Google and ebay for about a week. I am looking for a Nylon strap with Velcro similar to the Bell & Ross straps. I can not find a decent source for one. This IS NOT going on a Bell & Ross so buying a rep B&R strap is out. Anyone know of a decent source??

Well it seems the concensus is its worthless and does not add or take away from the watch so I guess I might as well live without one. Thanks for the help guys.

I openend up my UPO a few weeks ago and noticed that the anti-mag cover is not there. How much does the anti-mag cover weigh, IOW would having it vs not having it make it feel any heavier / lighter in the hand? How does the anti-mag cover stay in place? Since my watch did not come with one if I was able to source one would I be able to make it stay in place?

Yeah can't judge a book by its cover. I was at the AD last week and a kid maybe 20 at the most was picking up a white gold Daytona with the black and red face after they had done some work to it. He was wearing cargo shorts, a t shirt, and a pair of Crocs.

I got one from Josh and it does not attract dust.

IIRC the lug width on the Link is 22mm. I can measure it tonight when I get home and let you know for sure. The problem I have found with metal bracelets is that even thought the lug size is 22mm or whatever you don't have the room to make them work because the metal band will not bend so to speak the same way rubber or leather will. Sometimes you have to use a 20mm springbar which will still fit but give you a bit of extra play. I am wearing my link chrono right now and looking at the springbar they seem to be the type that are bent on the ends rather than straight. I am not quite sure where to get thoes. If you need straight springbars you can order them from a million places online and they are not that expensive. You can probably get 4 or so 20mm and 4 or so 22mm for less than $10.00 which would be enough to keep some for spares to use in the future.

How does the dial on the V5 compare to gen in terms of sheen i.e. matte, gloss, semi-gloss??

Update: Results: Job done and everything is looking good again, sorry no pics as my battery was dead. I got the screwdrivers and GS Hypo from Ofrei. Took the caseback off, unscrewed the movement retainer ring, used the smallest screwdriver to release the stem, got the movement out and the loose marker out of the case. Ran into a slight problem as once I pulled the stem out the movement started running. I tried to put the stem back in to hack the seconds hand but it did not feel like it wanted to go in so rather than risk it I let it run during the repair. automatico was right the GS is just like model cement and spiderwebs. I put some GS on a piece of wax paper and used a toothpick to put the glue on the dial. I usea a pair of surgical tweezers to hold and place the marker on the dial and got it into position. I then used the toothpick to gently push the marker onto the dial. There was a bit of gs on the dial so I used the toothpick very carefully to get it off. putting it back together was the reverse but I didn't realize how the retainer ring held the movement in until I already had 2 of the 3 screwed down. When I was working on the third one I realized that it was still pretty loose. By luck when I was putting the third tab on it went under the metal lip where it is supposed to, then I realized that the two I put on first were not under the lip. I went back and redid the original 2 to get the tabs under the lip and the job was done. I guess now I will see how the marker holds up. I am planning on swapping in a gen dial anyways so as long as the marker holds for a little while I will be ok. Watchdog....I have always admired your work, and always thought working on watches has to be hard but after dealing with the very few small parts and the little bit of finess and carefulness it took to put the marker back on I have a new found respect for what you do every day. On a side note I did damage one of my springbars. The plunger part on one side is stuck in the tube. Does anyone know where I can obtain a new springbar? They are not the standard ones the ends are bent forward rather than straight. If anyone has a line on them please let me know.

This is the way to go. It is D4M's group buy which is where I purchased my UPO from. I ordered it on a Friday, had a tracking number on Monday, and the watch arived on Thursday.

How does the yobo lume compare to the original Seiko lume? Also for the dial, I have seen Yobo's photobucket page but does he have a webstore or something that shows his dials? For the strap, was that a 24mm strap you cut a bit to fit the lugs on the Seiko?

You are 100% correct. If putting the marker on the dial required removing the hands and dial and all of that I would certianly be sending it out to someone with both the skill and tools to do the job. I have steady hands and have done a fair amount of model car/plane building so I think I can handle gluing a marker to a dial without too big of a problem. Worst case I mess up the dial or the marker somehow which means I will just give myself an excuse to purchase the gen dial sooner. Thanks for all of your help guys. I will post back my results when the job is done.

Is this the GS Hypo Cement you are talking about? It says GS Crystal Cement?? PN FB-2202 http://www.ofrei.com/page382.html#2666 I was also going to order the High-Quality French Made Screw Driver Set of 5 PN FB-1240 http://www.ofrei.com/page238.html That should do the trick right

Thanks for the info Rob. I will get some GS Hypo ASAP. One other question, the lume did not come out of the marker. The entire marker came off of the dial. I am sure you are familiar with the UPO dial but its the 5o'clock marker the metal piece came loose lume and all. I noticed on the dial there are two holes to accept the legs on the back of the marker, should I put the GS Hypo on the two holes of the dial then place the marker on the dial or should put the GS on the legs of the marker and then put the marker on the dial? It seems that if I put the GS on the dial there would be less chance of a mess if I accidently drop the marker while trying to get it onto the dial??? Lastly I got the caseback and everything apart last night. I hit a road block when it came to getting the movement holder screws off. I did not have a screwdriver small enough. DOes anyone know what size screwdriver I will need to get the movement retaining screws out.

Begining to think I might just use some red loctite. Its thinner so it should be easier to not make a mess than the gorilla glue...

Gorilla Glue? Should I dab it in with a toothpick? How long do you think I should let it sit before I re-case the dial/movement? I know the fumes from superglue can do some damage until it is completely dry.

One of the lume markers on my UPO came off. What type of adhesive should I use to re-glue it to the dial? It looks like the dial has two holes in it to accept feet from the lume marker so I assume I should just try to get whatever the recomended adhesive is into those holes only to keep the dial clean right?

Thats where my cousin learned to do tatto's. They make their own guns using a tape deck motor, the spring out of a lighter for the needle, its amazing when you think about it. His work is better than some of the guys I have seen in the shops here that want to charge an arm and a leg for it.

Yes it is the same style Cobra that was used in the movie xXx State of the Union, incase anyone wanted to see it in action. A/C ? Really whats the point this thing is a roadster and has no way of keeping the cool air in. I think I woulg go sans A/C, Cruise Control, and traction control, throw a Ford 4.6 DOHC with either twin or single turbos, IRS rear suspension if possible and go Porsche hunting. I know my friend who built his Cobra sent the cars wiring harness off and they stripped something like 150lbs of wires out of the harness that he did not need for things like AC, Cruise, various lights, stereo, ect.. Imagine 1,000hp in a car that probably weighs less than 2,000 lbs...

Yeah I tried them but I am looking for the New Aquaracer 500m and from what I can see they don't have it...

As the title states I was wondering if anyone could point me towards a good online source for gen watches. More specificly an online dealer that sells Tag Heuer. Thanks

Thanks I kind of figured that, and really felt like an idiot asking but it was bugging me so I had no choice.

I want to mod my UPO with Gen parts.....haha j/k I was measuring one of my watches last night and decided to throw the caliper on my UPO. Now the UPO should be 45.5mm but when I put my calipers on the outside of the bezel at 9 and 3 my caliper read something in the 43.6 range. I know I zeroed it out, well I am almost positive I did but now I am confused. I also put the caliper on the case at 9 and 3 and that came out to somewhere around 45mm IIRC. So where should it be measured at the case or at the bezel? Being that it measured 43.xx it can't be the 42mm version. Anyone have a UPO and a caliper handy to get a measurement on theirs for me?

That looks like it is made for the Aussie crowd, using Ford's Holden vehicles as donors. I know a guy close to me who built an AC Cobra replica using a 95-97ish Mustang for the donor car. I think all in all he put like $20k into it over 2 years, now that $20k also takes into consideration the left over parts he sold off to get some money back. If you take your time they come out really nice and are pretty fast. I can only imagine how fast that one would be using a Boss motor and probably weighing less than 2000lbs..

I would have to go for my G Shock. Wouldn't want to think I still had 10 min only to find out my 21jewel swiss ETA clone was off by 9 min.

Silix dial has the correct logo, other than that the UPO is better in every way as far as the dial goes. I think Silix is charging $50 or so for the dial then either you have to swap the logos or pay someone to do it for you.