RWG Technical

Your welcome, hoepefully it makes sense... Isn't that a children's song "...old Macdonald had a farm...with a Hack Hack here, and a Hack Hack there..." he must have had a 7750 as well...

After servicing, all movements are adjusted to +6 to +8 seconds a day on the analyzer. This setting is the one that typically produces accurate timekeeping while being worn, the problem of course is that not everyone wears their watches the same way, not everyone moves enough while wearing the watch to have it fully wound, different temperatures are encountered while wearing the watch, and if that wasn't enough, the factory specs on the A7750 are probably no better than + - 30 seconds or more a day...so while 30 seconds sounds bad, it's actually within the design specs of the movement. A partially wound movement will run fast, so this may be the cause. You can always handwind it carefully and slowly 25+ turns and see if the rate improves, this will confirm partial winding while being worn. The key is consistancy in the rate, in other words does the watch run 30 fast each and every day it's being worn, if this is true, then slowing it down by the 30 seconds should solve the problem. It is very normal for a watch to gain, and loose, or run even, during different times of the day. The only true test is to adjust the time to an atomic standard, check it 24 hours later, and see what you get, do this a few times and if your getting the same readings, make the fine adjustment. Without an analyzer it's hard to know how much to move the adjuster, so it's hit and miss. A regularly serviced movement shouldn't wear out, since the pivots are turning in a film of oil. If the movement is serviced, then I would say the winder is a good choice, but it most likely won't keep accurate time on the winder, your wrist is not a winder, and vice versa. If you don't want it running all the time, you could always hack it at the time you normally switch watches, say every morning, that way you don't have to move the hands a lot to get it synchronized when you put it back on, leaving it hacked won't hurt anything. As for start up, a few slow easy turns of the crown to give it a charge and then wear it, being uni-directional winding, it takes a lot of wrist movement to keep it charged, most times the rotor spins the other way instead of winding it. Lume looks great, good picture quality.

Freddy has got it right. The reason for this (and it's common on the ETA's as well) is due to the offset cannon pinion location. In most movements the cannon pinion, which carries the minute hand, is attached directly to the center wheel pinion, when the center wheel moves so do the cannon and the minute hand. This is not the case on the 7750. On the 7750, the center wheel is not actually in the center, it's off to one side. To the center wheel is attached the cannon pinion gear, this gear drives the minute wheel, which in turn drives the gear that the minute hand attaches to. So instead of direct drive for the minute hand, you now have 3 gears between the driving gear, and the hand, which means there is slack and therefore play. I have had success with setting the time backwards to take up the slack. Just remember that everytime you set the time, you are ever so slightly wearing out the cannon gear clutch, on all watches, not only the 7750, so do it as little as possible.

Sounds like your cannon pinion gear is defective... If when you set the time you feel very little friction (best done with the movement out of the case) then the cannon pinion is defective and has to be replaced/repaired, common issue on un-serviced A7750's, not a DIY repair unfortunately.

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I am back...and PM should be working again.

It looks great, enjoy.

Glad to see that you like the results, and thanks for the great feedback. I still have mine from when they first came out, it's powered by a genuine Tudor 7750 and is a great watch. Wear it well.

I am not really sure what I did to deserve such harsh, misleading, and completely false comments. Especially disturbing since you never had any work done by me. Good luck in finding someone to help you out.

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I don't think ETA makes a non-chrono minute wheel for the 7750. The only solution I have seen is the cap, as Babola says, the original cap is brass, given how hard it is to source most parts, the odds of getting this cap is probably nil. I have made these in the past on the lathe, with solid silver steel and polished. If you can't source one Z3k0, let me know on email...

Well...one of us has to enjoy the garden

@panerai153 I am sitting in the garden, first thing in the morning and I just read your comments to J. Her comment is "Well said sir" and I have to agree. She's grinning ear to ear.

Looks great... As I was looking at the close ups of the dial lume, my first though was that I really screwed up the lume application on this one, it looks terrible, the lume is not centered on the white background markers and everyone is going to comment on what a terrible lume job I did...then I went back up and re-read your description, which says that it's a gen dial and untouched. Ok, that explains it... Guess I have to re-adjust my application technique to match the misalignment from the factory. Well done R, enjoy.

Oh great, just great...I can hear the lawyers rubbing their hands together... Now I am going to have to include a disclamer with each lume, stating that I am not responsible for any accidents caused by staring at the lume while driving in dark places...

Thanks for the further information. These bezel rings are very hard metal and a real challenge to machine, even on a lathe. I am amazed that you got the results you did by doing it freehand. With all reps, there are always accurate parts, and not so accurate parts, it's too bad they just can't make one model totally correct. Well done, looking forward to more of your handiwork.

Understood. Very difficult to achieve an even round circle on something like this, without putting it in a lathe to do the cutting. There are limits to the accuracy you can achieve freehand.

And in some cases, the improvement is impressive. Here's some recent lume work I did. This looks so much better than it did when it arrived, like night and day...not only does it glow a beautiful blue, it looks better in daylight because of the lume dots and their shape and finish.

I do all my work by hand, as does probably everyone else. Typically you don't modify the actual bezel, but instead modify the insert, thin it down, and cut the outer edge as required for a snug fit. I have not had any problems getting inserts to fit tight up against the sides of the bezel with no gap, and to get it to sit below the bezel edge. So something needs to be looked at and corrected on this one. The insert should "snap" into place like the gen, and then only needs a bit of glue to hold it securely. We all know how picky our members are about this stuff...

All the best, thank you for our friendship, and being able to work together on various projects.

But his watch is radio controlled and he's within a milisecond of atomic time, all the time... I still think he's nuts as well... I'll take my un-accurate mechanical movement any day...

To each their own...be it lume, servicing, waterproofing, AR, whatever...just cause you don't like it, doesn't mean it's not appreciated by others. They have been applying lume to watches for over 70 years, and Super Luminova has been around for almost 50 years. If it was overrated, wouldn't you think that Rolex, Omega, Breitling, and all the other genuine manufacturer's, would stop putting "L Swiss L" on their dials and save money by omitting the lume. History proves that lume is here to stay, not everyone can appreciate it, that's all. Just like not everyone appreciates mechanical watches vs quartz watches. A friend has an atomic linked LCD watch, thinks I am crazy, I think he's nuts...to each their own...

The overall look is really nice, I especially like the dial markers, texture and colour. After reading the details of the work that was done, I have to admit I was disapointed to see the bezel insert fitment. Picture number 2 you can see completely under the insert, and in picture 3, there is a large side gap between the insert and bezel. I was expecting to see the insert sitting below the bezel lip, not above it, and no gap on the outer edge. It almost looks as if the glue either expanded as it dried and lifted the insert up, or that the insert and bezel seat needs to be scraped clean, and the insert re-glued.

I have given this a try in the past, and it did help, I think it comes down to simple "I want it, and I want it NOW" attitude. There is probably no real solution, sometimes I just need to vent a bit like everyone else. For all the jerks, I remind myself of all the friends I have made, those who have invited me into their homes, those that have stayed at my home, and those I will meet in the near future. The good certainly outweights the bad, and the great members will always overshadow the others, it's like the annoying drunk with the atomic finger poking your chest at the party, after a while you just want him to go to pass out somewhere... @eton Heading East this year, maybe West next year