RWG Technical

You don't screw these out to remove the movement, you screw them in... They are screwed out to tension against the case and hold it securly in place, they are screwed in to release the tension. To remove: Tighten (Righty tighty) the screws down fully, then rotate the complete ring until one of the screws lines up with the notch where the stem is located, turn upside down, movement falls out. Damn, you beat me to it again.....

Agree fully, unaceptable response to a very senior and respected member who was trying to help.

Starting price for the HAAS VF2 is only $49,999.00 USD...you have to sell a lot of watches to pay that machine off...and that's only a small part of what you need to fabricate a watch. Something isn't right...

Looks like an Invicta with a blank dial that's all.. Really, why go to all the trouble, simply pick up some Invicta's, redial them, make up some big write up about blah blah blah...google some pictures of some CNC machines, do a few CAD drawings, and sell the watches at 5X the cost. Reminds me or that other company that does something similar, starts with an "R"... RMC watches or something like that... I think it's all smoke and mirrors, he's even using Sellita's like Invicta, how convenient.

Click here to see what handwinding does...Handwinding damage

Understood on all points, good move replacing the center wheel, it saves a lot of problems. I have never had an issue with the zenith minute wheel meshing with the rolex cannon and hour wheels. If you only feel resistance when setting the time, it is probably not a concern. You could remove the pallets, then with the cannon and hour in place, wind slightly and see how well it turns and how smooth it spins, then remove the cannon and hour and wind again and compare. I belive that you won't find any problems or variation with the parts in place or removed, meaning that the issue is restricted to time setting, not running... The friction is most likely the cannon gear turning on the center wheel. Not sure what you lubed the cannon with, try PML or some K22 stem grease, it makes it feel silkier than D5.

At least let me recover and finish this round of therapy before you send it in...

The minute wheel is the same, it isn't the source of the roughness or the problem. The problem is the incompatibility of the rollie cannon pinion and the zenith center wheel. Rolex replaces the center wheel (along with a bunch of other stuff) when the modify the zenith. The center wheel is the one that the cannon pinion fits onto, the one with the post sticking out. The reason you need a new center wheel, is that the rollie cannon pinion has a smaller diameter hole than the zenith, and the only fix is to remove the center wheel, mount it in a lathe, and turn down the post for the cannon pinion until it fits correctly. There are many other issues and problems you are going to run into as soon as you start to change the parts, too many problems to mention and try and explain. The old rule applies, you change 1 thing, you affect 12 others... I have build a number of these and they are extremely time consuming as soon as you start to install rollie parts. If you are doing the upgrade, or if you have someone doing it for you, I hope they are very very skilled watchmakers, otherwise your in for a rough ride, I still have the scars and emotional trauma from doing it myself...

I answered your PM within hours...you opened and read my reply...I waited, and waited, and waited some more, days went by and I didn't get a response from you, not even a "Thanks but no thanks, not interested...". It's called courtesy, simple - do unto others...

I believe the one on the left is my recent handiwork, dial and hands vintage tritium lume, pearl lume, crown and tube install, assembly, etc...

Common problem as well, the quickset date change gear is not switching over, can be fixed during servicing. Ok, quickset and time setting for date change are two separate gears. Could be a number of things causing the chrono problem. You need a servicing...and repair of these issues...

I only know the answer because it's a common problem. Feedback will confirm what is going on... You are very welcome, as always.

Your cannon gear is slipping, it needs a complete servicing, and restoring of the cannon gear friction. Slipping cannon gears is a normal problem on all A7750's. Quick test to confirm: Wind the watch manually, very slowly 30 turns on the crown Set the time and as you move the crown note how much friction there is, does it feel loose (probably) or can you feel some friction, compare the friction to the quickdate set position feel Synchronize the seconds subdial to a known clock, push the crown it and monitor what happens Start and run the chrono at the same time, note if there is a difference between the main hour and minute hands and the elapsed time on the chrono Report back on the above and you will have your answer...

ETA hands down, as long as it's genuine and not a copy. Sellita is a better choice than a clone copy, but should not be your first choice.

DLC is totally wrong for any vintage piece. PVD is the correct coating to use.

I have to say that this one was the most "challenging" I have ever had. We were lucky to be able to save the movement, since spare parts are mostly impossible to find...

You have been on the forums long enough to know the answer to this question. I have seen many of these, for years...no surprise... The turning point for me the one where the Rolex 616 was completely rusted solid, and was sold knowing it was rusted. Bad workmanship is one thing, selling a RUSTED SEIZED solid movement in a watch is something else... No one wants to know the truth, you need a flame proof suit if you dare speak up. This is not an isolated incident, there are others making vintage PAM's who's workmanship is as bad or worse... Exactly. I did the same and was flamed like you were. It's sad, but that's the way it is...now I keep my mouth shut and watch..

Happy New Year to you also. I have seen a couple of variations, some are simply held in by the crystal, others have a notch to line them up, others are glued to the bezel, mostly the slide rule ring falls out when the crystal is removed.

You really need a good set of preferably Delrin dies for removal. The edge of the bezel is very narrow and you should have a die that is slightly larger than the crystal, but still small enough to capture the complete bezel. Removal of the crystal is like any other, the big issue is the bezel and supporting it while the crystal is pressed out...

Looks great, glad I was able to help with your project.

How about ziggy closer to the gen... Did you not read bikermike's post or are you simply ignoring what he wrote... Please give credit where it's due.

As you handle the case, the oils from your hands and fingers will absorb into the PVD coating and the colour will turn darker and have the correct tint. Looks great overall, wonderful job.

Hmm... interesting results. If the hairsping is not touching anything and has the same contact with the regulator pins in all positions, I am not sure what is causing the problem. The balance should swing very close to the same rate, so that leaves only the hairspring changing length or maybe a coil is touching or not touching...you will find the answer, let me know when you do...

Your a "home-taught watchmaker"...well had I know that that it would have changed everything...that's the last time I help you out...snob... I have one in my city as well, a SNOB watchmaker, but he prefers to call himself a "Horologist"...he's a dumbass and snob and knows squat about watches...his life is one of replacing watch batteries in quartz. I called once and asked him if he had a stem for an ETA 2671, and he had no clue what type of movement that was...other than to say it was such a low quality movement that he wouldn't even work on it, or have a stem that would fit...so much for being an expert...