RWG Technical

Your welcome. Personally, I don't like working on the Sellita's, they tend to have balance wheel and hairspring issues, on the anaylzer it's almost impossible to get a good reading for some reason. I remember spending over 2 hours and about 10 feet of printing paper trying to adjust the beat and rate...not a good outcome...

Agreed, some impressive claims were being made. I would love to have a Sellita 500 to teardown and analyse, it should be an interesting comparison to our latest A7750's... Wonder if the rep manufacturer's will start offering them as "Upgrades" to the A7750?

Agree with the above. This version heen around for a long time, 6 years or more... Transfer gears are not an issue since they only come into play for 2 seconds each minute while the chrono is running. As with any A7750, if the watch is a keeper, you should have it serviced and cleaned and oiled and adjusted.

While Sellita movement are good, they are no where near the quality, fit and finish, or tolerances of a standard ETA. I haven't seen the 7750 clone yet, but based on the 2824 Sellita's I have seen and worked on, Sellita has a long way to go...they are no where near the quality of even cheap Japanese movements like Miyota. By comparison a Miyota 8215 at $50.00 would score a 10, is simple to adjust and rate, and is bullet proof. The Sellita 2824 copy at $125.00 would score no more than a 6, it can be a nightmare to adjust, the fitment of the parts is all over the place, and overall is a nightmare to work on. Sounds like it was an Informercial for Sellita, don't believe anything you see or read...

Wonderful photography, really well done and presented. For those not in the know, the PVD coating is supplied by me (yes PVD, not DLC) is not only done in the same factory Panerai used, the finish, colour, and prepwork is the same as the gen. NO vintage Pam's were DLC coated - ever. You can't do any better than getting the real thing, there is no comparison. My last PVD run is taking place next month, it's the end of an era. Costs have risen close to 50% in the past 12 months due to exchange rates rising and falling...the margin was just enough to cover the costs, but it's just gotten to expensive.

Unbelievable. So now we decide by comparing pictures on the internet what is genuine and what isn't, based on nothing more than the colour of a screw and the "finish" on the return spring. Guess the fact that screws can be any colour and that depending on the photographer, lighting, angle, etc, metal parts look very different. Add another to the banned list... In the 6 years I have been on RWG, this is by far the worse case of slander and abuse of a long time trusted memeber I have ever seen, I am totally appalled at this post, simply disgusting.

I still do the inner CG work with a #6 cut file, with a safe edge of course, takes a bit of time, maybe 20 minutes tops, but I can easily control the progress. For the outer CG work, well that's a different story, and is all done with tools, impossible to do by hand. Good results, but I wonder if you would save time by the hand filling method...

Thanks for this, just watched it with the significant other...she thought it was great.

Aren't there a bunch on Geek, Rex, Speedy, etc, etc....

It varies between the crystals, there is no standard that I have noticed. Typically you need a slight chamfer on the edge to be able to insert the crystal into the seat, but otherwise it's all over the place... Most critical is the diameter, anything beyond + - 0.05mm of the required dimensions and you could have problems, too loose or too tight in the compression ring.

Not a "sh*t" list, more like a "naughty" and "nice" list - just like Santa Clause. Very simple rules, like life, do unto others as you would like done to you, keep me informed, be upfront and don't waste my time. I'll bend over backwards for anyone, but I have zero time for those who don't value my time.

That is not an available choice, it could have been, but someone decided to waste my time, you only waste my time once...

Thank you very much for all the information, this is exactly what I need.

With the new AP Diver on it's way, I need some insight on the lume, namely these points: 1. What is the gen, C1 or C3? I am hoping C3 so I can use C3A+, the results will be amazing. 2. Are they all the same, ie C1 or C3 or do various models use different colours? 3. What part of the bezel is lumed, obviously the main numerals and markers, how about the small markers in the first 15 minutes, lumed or not? 4. Is it a matte finish on the bezel lume, or is it gloss like the IWC cousteau and slevin? I should have something to show in a week or so, some of this may be obvious when the watch arrives, but some is open to interpretation so feedback would be nice. Any and all feedbabck appreciated, I'll be sure to post the results when I am done. Thanks everyone.

My experience with these type of hands is that the paint is actually very tough and has a hard finish, it takes a lot to chip the paint. A number of years ago there were many of these hands that were defective and turned reddish/orange over time, this seems to have been corrected. Normal care and attention to detail should never result in those particular hands being damaged, not even the hand installer should do that type of damage. I never use any "protection" when installing the hands, that's why you use professional quality installation tools, they won't damage even the most delicate hand. Nickel or gold plated hands are the most easily scratched. If the damage wasn't enough, the actual lume application looks poor, especially the hour hand lume, it looks like it's got dirt or something imbedded in the lume paste.

No one likes to be stood up - June 10, 2009 - good luck in your search.

Very nice and well done, congrats on such a nice piece.

Reviews are gone, had some issues with the formatting and photo's and had to remove them...

Looks very familiar... "\ Please make sure you clean off as much as you can with watch tissue paper, and the remainder with Rodico, if you put it in your cleaning solution the silicone or whatever it is will contaminate and ruin your cleaning solution and you'll have to replace it.

In my case your second option, a "tweak" of sorts that restors the friction of the gear to the correct level. Trade secret you know...

If it hasn't been serviced, like all factory fresh A7750's, the cannon friction is virtually nil, no friction, means no drive to the hands... When you move the crown you also move the cannon gear and it "grabs" every now and then.

I guess he didn't find the response interesting or detailed enough to even acknowledge it... Oh well....

I would suggest you try Kent at everestwatchworks. I do have a minimum billing amount and would not accept only a set of hands for lume, the reality is that it's not worth it. Overhead is the same for all jobs, any less than the minimum and your loosing money...sorry...

Wow, looks like I need to seriously re-visit and adjust my pricing, wonder what the going rate is for a complete dial... I certainly don't want to become the "cheapest" in town, especially since my quality is so high. Not anymore I don't... You received by email, on Oct 10, 2010, my complete pricing and capability list, you never responded....

That's not a gen 5508, not even a good or close copy...