RWG Technical

Well if there are members here that kiss my ass, that would be news to me. Why are you getting so bend out of shape anyway, your the one who's doing the poor work, by your own admission. If you consider helping others here with their technical questions, or posting a detailed review of a new movement as not being modest or "letting it be known that I know" then that is your opinion. Members ask a question, I answer it if I can, do you want me to get all fluffy and touchy feely so I am not "abrasive" to sensitive members like you? French is my first language, not ENGLISH, text does not convey emotion if you can't take the heat, get out of the kitchen. And since no one else is complaining, it seems as if your trying to deflect the issue. I really could care less if this person went to you or anyone else to have the work done. You don't know what your doing, now everyone knows this fact and can make informed decisions. It's obvious you don't only care about stilty or the help he has given you, you don't care about your customer either. The amount of money you collect is irrelevant if your doing poor work. And if your suggesting I am in it for the $, get real. Do I work for free, of course not, no one should. How much do you give to the forum? according to you - nothing anymore... Sit down and contribute a couple of detailed posts such as I have and continue to do, on my time, at my expense, etc, and you'll soon find out how much time I give to the forum. As for my work prices, wake up to reality, have a look at the prices for the other modders:, $85 to replace datewheels, $50 for silicone in a CG, $200 for a normal lume, $50 to "oil" your movement without taking it apart...please, get real...where have you been. Enough of wasting my time on someone like you, I have seen your type before...same MO and ethics...and excuses...and personality, and getting upset at me, for your failings.

I have only ordered for Rollies and Omega's so not sure how they are ordered for this model... RG

I would say the only long term fix, is to replace the rep parts with genuine ones as we have done on the Omega's... RG

Well that's not like any stem I have ever seen, there are no threads on it...so it would seem that you have to pull it out of the crown, not twist it out... RG

Well then the crown sprung part that the stem is attached to, must be slipping. A sprung crown should lock when it's pulled out, and turn free when the crown is pressed in. Look with your loupe where the stem inserts into the crown, as you turn it, to see if it's turning or not... RG

Are you gripping the end of the stem where it's square with a pin vice to prevent it from turning? RG

No crapping going on, I am only highlighting your standards of workmanship. I spend my childhood sitting next to a watchmaker extraordinaire, and learnt all I could...as an adult, I took the time zone school course, practiced, practiced, and read and practiced some more. I taught and did everything on my own watches, UNTIL I could do it perfect before I offered my service to others. This is the difference between you and I. I never said I was a Jet Jock, I said I rode in the backseat. There is no RIO on a F-18 (in case you didn't know), you just go along for the ride... Google "421 Tac F Sqn" and see what the moto was...you'll have your answer and proof really fast... and for the record, I don't lie or make things up. I can't imagine that anyone would approve of your work standards or ethics. This is a public forum, I repeated what you stated. Doing it for fun ends when you offer to do watch work for MONEY, for others, you better do it right, or the members here need to know the difference. So no, I wont' keep my comments to myself... So let me see if I understand this... your calling me an a$$hole because you don't know what your doing when it comes to watchsmithing. You have posted here that you bend hands instead of buying the correct parts for the job, you not only install movements in cases where the stems dont' line up with the case, you go so far as to actually grind down the inside of the tube to make the crown thread on...you have done this before and the stem has broken off...and I'm the one with a bad attitude who's an a$$hole?? Your a hack and don't have a clue what your doing. Offering to do it for money you had better do it perfect, or don't offer or do it at all. Screwing up your own watch is one thing, doing all the things you yourself have described in detail here, on someone else's watch - for money - is unaceptable in my book and I am not alone... RG

That is the correct way to do watchsmith work. The right way. That stem is where is should be - CENTERED and Parellel to the center line. Shortcuts or hack jobs don't work on watches anymore than they do on any other precise mechanical equipment. Not doing it the right way is a sign of someone who either doesnt' care, or doesnt' know better, or both. Certainly stems that go in at an angle, (not a slight angle but one sharp enough to require filling down the inside of the crown tube for it to work) are sure to lead to problems with the keyless works (you would think that when you resort to filling away at the case tube, you should realize you have a problem). The movement is not designed to take a side load in this area and precise alignment is mandatory. The stem is either going to break off (just like it did on UB7's and will continue to do...), or the keyless works is going to jam up during use. Bending hands for the want of $30 worth of correct parts...come on... Hopefully the customer is reading this and realizes what he's getting for his money. To each their own, hackjobs always lead to one thing, disapointment and problems for the customer and end user. At least everyone knows what to expect from watchbuff's workbench, everything I have commented on are his words and workmanship standards. RG

The info I was going to send you, is in the mail, it was 60MB so I decided to mail it on a DVD... PM sent with the other info you need. RG

The top picture shows a older A7750 with the non-funtional fine rate adjuster...non funtional since in my experince you move the arm, and either nothing happens, or the arm breaks off... Therefore your better to do as in picture 2 and 3, move the arm with the regulator on it. CAUTION Only do so with a loupe on your eye, trying to do this with no magnification is a disaster waiting to happen, the hairspring is right below this arm, one slip, or pressure on the spring...and you'll have more problems that you started with. Move it CW towards the other arm, I would say 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch and monitor it...very hard to do without a timing machine so it takes patience to see what effect your work did... Good luck, remember good loupe, strong light, tweezers, stay away from the hairspring and only move it slightly. Don't move the other arm as it affects beat. RG

The watch looks great, although after all the money that went into a gen case and dial, the Tudor hands, etc...I have a hard time accepting that it's better to "bend the hands to clear the markers", than to tell the customer he needs to spend $30 on a correct longer second wheel, cannon pinion and hour wheel... and pay for the 30 minutes required to replace these parts so that the hands sit parallel to the dial as they should, and are not bent. I am not a big fan of short cuts in watchmaking, or not spending another $50 to do it the right way. But to each their own I guess. RG

Glad to hear your on the way up again. We have all been there at one time or another, I am happy that things are looking up for you. RG

Well I really don't know what else I can offer...it's really hard to troubleshoot from a distance...some things don't look right, the moveable rectangle on the pusher shoudl be sitting flush with the spring, but it's off a bit...as well the chrono cam appears to be pressed to far in the CCW direction because I can't see the end of the 12 hour transfer lever in the notch for the cam, so it looks as if you have a number of problems that are causing this issue. RG

If the pusher is not able to be pressed in, then there is something out of alignment...it could be the cam, or the pusher or something else. I would remove the screw and the pusher and have a good look at the chrono cam and see if anything is out. Then I would re-install the pusher and test it again, you may want to press on the bottom pusher to make sure the cam is in the reset position. RG

With your tweezers pull on the finger shaped lever away from the movement until the finger is past the rectangular piece, once it gets past this, move it down to contact the rectangular piece and the rectangle should line up and seat back where it should be. It's not broken, just out of place. You can also try moving the rectangle towards 90 deg from the arm, and then pull on the finger piece to seat it. The finger is the spring for the rectangle, and this is what switches between start and stop when you press it. RG

What he said...doesn't make any difference running or not, all the time or not. 6 o'clock dial is a 12 hour one. RG

No it can't be fixed unless you buy the gen... RG

I have run into two broken models of this 7750. I have also serviced a number of these, including Jawo's Breitling GMT. So far I would say of those I have seen, it's 50-50, those that work fine, are fine, the others are junk and not repairable. There are more than one 7750 factory, so maybe this is why some are good and others are not? But I only have a limited experience, maybe owners can chime in... RG

Yours is the same as Jawo's, the reason the datewheel is sunken, is the addition of the GMT gears and stuff...on the ETA 7754 GMT this is not a problem. RG

There is no sunken datewheel problem on a 7750 layout, the sunken datewheel is a problem on the A7753 version with subdials at 3-6-9. @ Jawo, They look FABULOUS and I am happy your pleased with the results. Wear them well and my pleasure as always. RG

Certainly it's much easier to replace the hand with the correct one, in this case I charged for my time... RG

That sounds great to me...I'll have to pack my lume kit when I come to the EU next year. RG

I printed that info you sent the other day, so I should get it right on yours. Nice that I had someone else's to practice on first. Glad you like the results. RG

Breitling hand repair. The Asian 7750, unlike the ETA 7750, has varying thicknesses depending on the subdial layout. A 7750 has subdials at 12-9-6, whereas a 7753 has them at 3-6-9. On the ETA there is no difference in thickness between a 7750 or 7753. On the Asian movement, the transfer gears for the 30 minute subdial are above the calendar wheel, and therefore make the movement thicker. Most remember the Breitlings that came with the backwards chrono seconds hand. Well I got one of these in for a hand replacement, problem was, the new hand was made for a 7750 not a 7753 layout, and the hand tube was too short. Because the Asian 7753 is thicker, the hour and minute wheels end up further away from the mainplate, and the chrono seconds gear and hand post ends up below the top of the minute wheel, not above it as it would be on a 7750. So we had a problem, trying to source a new hand would not be easy, and the odds of it being too short were high. Getting the message across that we needed a 7753 longer tube hand vs a 7750 shorter tube hand, was also proving to be difficult. The only option that I could think of trying, was to remove the tube from the backwards