slay

Very nice. Please upload some closeups

Nuggets

Nothing really, aside from 'oh so sorry, watchmaker send different case'. Even wanted more money when I asked how much a different reference was. I didn't ask for any compensation, but I doubt he would have given me anything. I'm handy with tools, so I just fixed it myself. Not worth arguing over this for nothing (the vibe I got was that he didn't really care if I I order again or not, he does have limited stock/capacity to make new stock that he can sell and he won't be able to sell 10s of cases or dials at a time anyways). Oh and please don't reference me in any convos with him, since I'm still waiting for a dial from him for over a month now and I am still hoping to get that dial.

Make sure you check all sides, especially the lug profile, bevels (chamfers) and lug holes! The case I received only had bevels cut on 1 lug. The lug holes were not drilled at the same height on both sides, which meant I had to re-drill them at an angle to fit spring bars. Also the lug-shape ended up being completely different in the case that I received vs the case I saw on the pictures. It's very easy to hide all this at the right angle. So make sure you get straight facing shots from the sides (check out Robert maron for example pics of how to take good shots of vintage Rollie's).

Good to know, thanks. I guess I will carefully sand down the bezel then

Do you guys have the MysteryMovement case or one of his newer cases?

I tried to replace my DW's tropic 21 and I'm having a grad time finding one that fits with the black bezel. I tried one aftermarket bezel (expensive bezel!) and the DW bezel, both are too tight for Clarks T21, Sternkreuz T21 and J&K T21. Before I start missing the bezel, does anyone have an idea why none of them fit? Are the replacement plexis too thick or is the rehaut a micrometer too thick on the DW case?

I ordered something before and received a different case than what was in the QC pictures. Had to recut the bevels and redrill the lugs myself and the date stamps were wrong/different.

Checked with a bunch dealers... The FM torby has been out for 5 years and is sold out everywhere :/

What's the going rate for a gen movement?

Very beautiful! Would be the odd one out in my watch box, but who knows

OK OK, I'm not gonna ask "who has the best sub?" or "why is there no TRL on my sub?", but I was wondering if you guys can name a few reasonably accurate Tourbillon Reps? Figuring this stuff out is pretty difficult, because Tourbys are so rare that you can't even find pictures of the genuine watch easily and if you do, it's often a rendering or heavily photoshopped, making a comparision impossible. So far I found the blue dial AP Tourby, which is pretty good if you don't care about the thickness of the case and bezel. What else? What are some of your favorite non-fantasy tourbillons? I found two genuine Lange Tourbys that look very easy to rep, since I've seen Seagull movements that have similar tourby designs, but I couldn't find an accurate rep unfortunately (the tourby reps I found have unnecessary in-accuracies on the dial, like a moonphase that doesn't exist on the gen instead of day of week, etc.): and http://www.ablogtowatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/a-lange-sohne-1815-tourbillon-11.jpg

Reminded me of this: Haha

Is there a gap between bezel insert and bezel ring? Looks to me like the insert isn't flush with the bezel ring. Hard to tell from the pics though, they are a bit blurry, but better check before the insert falls out (or worse, gets stuck somewhere). Can't tell whether there is a gap between crown and case, if there is a gap, it means there was no countersunk drilled into the case before installing the tube (which may affect water resistance, depending on how the tube was installed - with or without loctite/epoxy).

Stopped again but I figured it out and it's FIXED!! Two issues interacted with one another cause this: 1) there were some high spots on the bottom of the dial causing it to sit slightly higher than normal 2) the running seconds @9 Subdial hand's tube was a bit too large, requiring the hand to be pressed too far into the pin to 'stick'. This created friction with the dial (that was sitting slightly higher than normal, just a tiny bit that makes no difference normally, but in combination with 2, the Subdial hand pressed against the dial. This is what cause the movement to stop sporadically. I have no idea why this was made worse when there was pressure on the stem, but I suspect that pressure from the sprig losed crown caused the Subdial hand to be pressed even more against the dial. Solution was to take tweezers and make the Subdial hands tube a bit tighter. That way, I didn't have to press the hand as far onto the pin as before and now there is sufficient clearance between running seconds and the dial

I spent some time thinking about this and remembered that I cut the old dial feet pretty close to where the keyless works is. I cut the feet, but I recall that the little dial feet's base was still on the dial and I didn't want to damage the dial trying to pry it off. Fast forward, my suspicion was that the dial feet base was pressing onto the keyless, because it's protruding a little bit from the dial. I took a Dremel and sanded off various high points on the dial, assembled everything back together and it seems to be running. Not sure if that fixed it, but it's most definitely running a lot better than before!

My suspicion is that it's the pressure exerted on the stem from the spring loaded Rolex crown. For some reason the movement doesn't like the pressure. Another thing I observed is that there is some resistance ever other half turn, no idea why. Movement is aligned perfectly and doesn't move at all. Oh also: when there is no stem at all inside the movement, it also stops sometimes!!

I have a little issue with a Vj72 build: every time I screw down the crown, the movement stops sporadically. As if it doesn't like when there is just a little bit of pressure on the stem from the crown. Any idea how I can fix this? The stem is already cut as short as possible, if I cut it even shorter, I won't be able to set the watch. Even when I screw the crown in just half way, the movement stops sporadically. If I just screw it down about 1/3, it keeps running.

Yeah definitely keep both watch and dial!

Yours? Any close-ups of the dial? I think they sell for about 2-3k on VRM. Where did you get it? Let me know if you want to sell it.

Merry Christmas!

That website is to adult men what toy commercials are to children. It tricks you into buying crap you don't need

Bumping this, because I can't find any 6mm crowns at Raffles' shop with 3mm threads to go into the case... do these still exist? Or any alternatives for a non-gen 6mm crown that fits in a 6542 case?

By the way, is the dial supposed to be matte or glossy? Dlf, yours looks matte, the 6538A watches I've seen make it hard to tell from pictures whether the dial is glossy or not? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk