TeeJay

If I was in your position, I'd go back, politely point out the problems, and ask them to clean inside the crystal and to put the crown guard back on the right way. I've never handled a Panerai, so I can't comment on how easy they are to disassemble compared to an Omega or a Rolex, but those are very easy watches to open up and clean the crystal. As long as you don't go in calling them incompetant morons, I'm sure they'd be prepared to correct things (which where, afterall, their mistakes) Best of luck

Another option you might like to consider, is ordering a very cheap rep of a Rolex Daytona with a leather strap. Throw the Daytona in the trash, and put the Submariner on the leather strap. That gives the watch a much more elegant look than either the SS Bracelet or a NATO strap. Best of luck

Man oh man............ not to be too blunt, but you can work your fingers to the bone with the mods you're proposing and the end result will not look like a 6200. Sorry.

- The case will be way too big, and way too thick

- The crystal MUST be domed acrylic for a vintage

- The dial must be yellowed or gilt

- The bezel must have a "coin" edge

If you want the contemporary look, you can't make a vintage 6200. Those two just don't go together. A contemporary 6200?? I guess it might have a fluted bezel and flat crystal, but then it's becoming more of a Turn-O-Graph or Thunderbird. It sure won't be a Sub.

That's cool, I'm not going for a 100% accurate 6200 look, and certainly not a vintaged one. If anything, my intention was to do a modern homage to the 6200, a kind of how one might look if Rolex were to make one today with contemporary parts. Knowing what Rolex is like, they (as a company) probably wouldn't hesitate to use the bezel and insert that is used today rather than the original design. As for it not being a Sub, that's no problem, as the 1953 6200 wasn't a sub... It wasn't called that for another 2 years :wink: My other criteria for the project, was it couldn't involve too many part replacements (bezel, crown, crystal etc) as the Submariner I'm going to be buying will likely be less than accurate, so it was more a case of fitting a new dial, and then manipulating the existing case/crystal into something visually similar to the 6200 One thing's for sure, I'm likely going to put the watch on my bleached leather strap rather than keeping it on the SS Bracelet.

This has become a planned project to utilise the 'left over' Submariner watch from when I make my planned GMT Submariner (which will involve transplanting a Submariner dial into a GMT Master II) Initially, I considered simply getting a Tudor dial and installing it, but felt that that wouldn't be much of a challenge or project, then I thought of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6200. The watch Ian Flemming originally wrote for Bond to wear in On Her Majesty's Secret Service (Watch is identified by name, and described as having 'large, luminous numbers', and the 6200 circa 1953 is the only Rolex that meets these descriptions)

This is what the watch looks like:

I've managed to find someone who will produce the dial, and also sells vintage watch parts, so obtaining the correct bezel insert will not be a problem. However, I am making a minor change in the dial. Rather than the aged yellow, I am having the dial printed in the white/grey the Rolex uses on its contemporary watches. Essentially, I want this to look like a watch that has just been manufactured, not one that is 54 years old. Bearing this in mind, I recalled reading on another watch forum how when people sent their Rolexes back for servicing, the policy is to make them look 'as new', so any faulty (or simply outdated) parts get replaced, and the watch gets re-finished. This made me wonder, if Rolex were to manufacture a 6200 today, would they still use the same design bezel and insert, or would they simply use the ones from the contemporary Submariner? And that is essentially what I would like people's opinion on. Should I order an insert which is like those used on the original 6200s, or should I just keep the existing insert in place?

Other planned aspects of the project, will be to remove the cyclops from the crystal (bearing in mind that the flat crystal is what Rolex now installs on it's dateless watches) and to totally remove the crown guards (yes, the modern Oyster case has crown guards, but the original did not, and I think that will be a nice homage to the original cases)

What do folks think? Any advice, tips or questions are always welcomed

Here's the pic in question:

That's the one, awesome find, Dario The one I saw was grainy B&W, that's much better. Still a bit hard to identify definite model features. What's the likelihood he's had another model made like the Slytech?

Nice pictures! What movement is in the seamaster, is it the quartz or the auto version?

It's the quartz version. The tell is that the 3 marker is larger than it is on the automatic

Rep

Nice to see another Submariner on a Daytona strap

I saw in a newspapaer today an article half ridiculing, half praising Stalone for doing another Rambo film. One of the photos, showed him (presumeably on set) with a Panerai strapped to his left wrist. It was a black and white photo, and pretty grainy, so no idea as to dial or strap details, but the D-Shape of the crown guard was unmistakeable. The watch was definitely black (so PVD) and on 'a black strap' (could've been fabric, leather or rubber but impossible to tell) Has anyone else got any info on this watch, or is this an exclusive announcement?

@teejay

The only possible reason is that you moved the beat arm instead of the regulator one. If the beat arm is moved, and the beat is out (only way to check beat is with an analyzer) then the movement will stop running.

RG

Ahh, assuming that's the case, would getting it running again be classed as 'regulation', or 'a service', in your opinion? I'm going to drop the watch into a the watchsmiths who were prepared to work on my Planet Oceans tomorrow, and if I can point them in the right direction, then that could help with the cost of the repair...

TJ.......you've got to start leaving well enough alone. You remind me of me!!!!

My wife bought me a beautiful 1909 Hamilton Railroad pocket watch on the bay that gained about 30 seconds a day. Any other moron would have been very happy with that performance. This is a 98 year old watch. I couldn't stop fiddling with it and in the course of several days, a watch that had survived almost a century had a broken crystal and a cross-threaded caseback. The eventual service and restoration cost $330. It runs + 5 sec/day crown up and -5 seconds a day dial up. I wind it daily, alternate in each of the two positions every other day....and leave it the hell alone!!!!

I would, but I have a habit of fiddling with something if it's something I think I can do myself (the above mentioned watchsmith even told me to give it a try myself before definitley booking the watch in for regulation) It was gaining a minute a day, which to me, is unnacceptable. My other Omega reps have never gained more than 10 seconds a day, one was even at -2 a day, so for this one to be so far off COSC standard, (and given it was a consistent gain) was too much to ignore, and it didn't seem too tricky to attempt myself. Mental note to self: Do not attempt to regulate watches anymore. Part swapping is one thing, regulation is something that needs a professional's touch.

Repaustria -- Thank you for the quick reply. Can I also ask what the difference is between the 9315 & 93150 bracelets? I have a box full of rep bracelets and they are all labeled 93150, but some have diver's extensions and some do not. I am wondering which would be correct for the DRSD? I also have a couple of end pieces labeled 501B, but I have a feeling that is wrong for this model. I have seen these with 280, 380, 580 or 585 end pieces. The Patent Pending page of doubleredseadweller shows 380s, but I have seen all of the others fitted to DRSDs on Timezone. Could all of these end pieces be correct (fitted either originally or during servicing)?

Freddy, would you be prepared to sell one of the bracelets? If so, how much would you be asking?

PM's not working, so I'll post the question here...

I was trying to regulate my SMP, and it suddenly died on me. All I touched was the regulating arm of the movement, and it simply stopped (the same problem I had with trying to regulate my other Omegas) I can't think of anything I've done that would have damaged the movement, and the spring still seems in place. I'm not going to let this put me off learning more about mechanical watches, and, although I'm annoyed at myself that it has also died, I just wish I knew what I had actually done, so I could be sure not to repeat the mistake, but all I've done, is moved the regulating arm... Can you make any suggestions? Thanks in advance

Would I be right in thinking that this watch was something else that the Cartel have mis-represented?

PMing you on another issue

I suspect the dealer I got my SMP from does personal QC, as her sales site says the items are shipped from China, however, the envelope that arrived was British, with UK post marks, so I suspect she orders them in from China, then sends them on from her own address. The dealer I got my Planet Ocean's from also orders from suppliers and then forwards the products on themself.

Is there a easy way to remving straps. I see you have done it often over a short period, I always have difficulty in removing spring bars when they're on a strap as you can't actually see them? I always scuff the inside of the strap?

I just use a 1.5mm jeweller's screwdriver for bracelet or straps. With a strap, I just slide the tip between the strap and lug so it touches on the springbar, and then make minute 'scratching' motions untill it catches on the bar's ridges, then just press down fully and pop the springbar out

Now THAT looks nice

Thanks I just wish the watch itself would consistently work... What was supposed to be an upgrade project, is now going to require so many different parts, it would be as easy to simply buy a new watch and swap the dial over, which makes the idea of the project pretty redundant...

You wouldn't say that if it was strapped to your wrist and you could see just how bad (and loose) the gape was

I just tried putting the strap on my 2531.80 project watch (which has mysteriously started working again (in a somewhat erratic fashion) and the strap goes great with the black 'vintaged' dial.

I think it'll probably be safe to go on the Aqua Terra I'm planning on ordering, and likely also the X-33 I'm going to order (I wanted a watch that would be 'Corporate Smart' just in case, and another that just wouldn't look expensive at all)

Am I right in thinking you have a rubber strap for an Omega? Would be interesting to see what it looked ike on that if you did! (the PO type one where the strap covers the end link gap)

Indeed I do have the Omega rubber strap. I tried fitting it, but it has a really bad gape. For it to fit properly, I would need a second set of holes drilled in the lugs.

Here's how it looked though...

If the wrist shot is more preresentative of the colour then it looks quite classy! Bracelet is the one that clinches it for me though

Indeed, thw wrist shot was the more accurate representation of the color, as the second, the flas made the color of the strap much more intense. To describe it visually, I would classify the primary color as dark chocolate, and the color of the 'cracks' and stitching as a dark toffee color. I know what you mean, it did look classy, and as mentioned by chrgod, gives a look of, if not 'aged vintage', certainly 'inherited'. I think folks are indeed right, the SMP looks best on it's bracelet, and that's how I'll be keeping it. The strap will find a new watch to support though, so nothing has gone to waste

i work in an office, and after using the computer all day the bottom of the watch bracelet, normally by the clasp gets all scuffed up......how do you guys deal with this? or does it not happen to others? or does it not bother you?

If I'm wearing a watch with an SS Bracelet while using the computer (or drawing) I take it off and put it on the desk. That said, I don't work in an office, and don't know how trustworthy your co-workers are. A leather bracelet might be a safer option

i just got a sub and explorer II delivered today, havent had the chance to really look at them, but how do i resize them?

With a very small jeweller's screwdriver (I think 1.5mm is the correct size) All you need to do is unscrew a few pins, take the links out, and then re-screw them in. Don't forget, that the inside of your Submariner clasp is taken up by the diver's extension, so should be left in the position it is in. Look on the inside of the bracelet, at the links directly around the end of the clasp. One should have a small ring, about 2mm wide engraved/stamped into the middle section of the link. That is the link you use to operate the diver's extension, so that one has to stay in place. Anything between that link and the end of the strap, is fair game though Best of luck

No offense, but that is not my cup of tea.

None taken. I was in two minds about it, but it just wasn't working, so the watch went straight back on the SS Bracelet. The strap should go fine with an X-33 or Aqua Terra though, so not a total waste of time and money

I think the bracelet for the SMP is the best looking option available for these SMP's. I think the right colour leather strap could work, I think maybe the grain of the strap makes it look a little out of place.

The second picture wasn't really showing the true colors, as they aren't really as bright as that. The wrist shot is the more accurate coloring.

Just to update and put minds at ease...

How about an Omega Aqua Terra with a white dial, and either black or brown strap, depending on the color of your shoes and belt?

The SMP is back on it's bracelet

I can see Neil's point about dodgy tattoo parlors and mid-life crisis. But one must keep in mind that there is another end of the tattoo spectrum. Good tattoos from masters are not cheap! And even if you can afford it, it doesn't mean you will be able to get one. A good friend of mine, who happens to be a VP for a HR firm, waited over 1 year for an appointment. He got a piece done on his calf. $3500 pricetag. Even here in Vancouver there is a master tattooist called the Dutchmen. Try and get an appointment with him. No chance.

Look at what Kat from Miami Ink charges an hour. $400.

My point entirely. To be honest, full body suits are not the normal fare of the 'dodgy tattoo parlors'

NBA players, NFL payers are into watches mostly as a sign of wealth and the whole bling thing.

Any NBA or NFL player could wear the worst fake and i would think it is real. They like to waste money on anything that makes them look rich.

Most "bikers" spend most of there income on a bike which is cool. People should spend money on what they want to.

And get tattoos if they want to.

I do not see many people yachting with sleeve tattoos or enjoying a day at the polo matches. Never seen any visible tattoos on fifth ave. here in NYC at the watch stores.

It is just an unlikely pair.

I would except some tattooed guy to walk up to me while I wearing my IWC and say "cute watch sissy boy, get the *** out of my way!" not "hey is that the power reserve?, beautiful!!"

Geniune high end time pieces are kind of a snooty little hobby and tattoos are on the opposite end of the spectrum.

Do you know how much money a full Japanese sleeve (let alone a full body suit) would actually cost? A good sleeve alone would easily cost as much, if not more, than a gen Omega...