TeeJay

I personally like very worn and vintaged items. I have a genuine dial, but I like the aged look of this dial to. This appears to be an old refinish to me, it was advertised on eBay as a gen. The submariner below the feet and meters doesn't seem correct. I was thinking this dial in a MBW case, gen. crystal, gen. crown and stem. Vintaged/bleached insert and roughed up bracelet. Maybe even a missing pearl.

Sounds like a good plan to me. I've just got a positive for a custom vintage Rolex dial from ClassicWatchParts, so will be undertaking a similar project. I'm going to be ordering a 6200 dial, but printed in contemporary colors and with white lume, essentially how the watch would look if it was BrandSpankingNew rather than 50 years old. I'll have a spare Submariner from my planned GMT Submariner project, so thought putting the 6200 dial inside would make a good side project.

I've changed straps ...

Awesome. NATO straps go well with any watch

Today certainly seems to be a Rolex day Here's my contribution to the cause, the first wrist shot of my Submariner on the strap from my Daytona;

Would you buy just one of those expensive ones

like:

*Davidsens 036, 111h or 177h or 005

*HBB

or you'd rather have more watches by buying a couple of them:

*regular 036, 111h,177h or 005

*Tag slr chrono

*Sash ferrari pam date, gmt , chrono

* IWC amg inge

*Luminor GMT

*Luminor Arktos GMT

Please help me out here...

cant make up my mind..

shall i buy the most accurate?

davidsens have all the upgrades while big bang is very nice but asian mvt.

ferraris are great and 1:1 but again asian mvt.

i also like the new iwc custeau but i dont think its worth the money...

Are you someone who regularly changes their watch, or are you someone who tends to wear the same one for a while? If you frequently rotate them, then treat yourself to several good quality watches. If you tend to stick with one, then buy a really nice watch.

Guys:

I have 3 rep LVs and the bezel colors are all the same. This week, I saw a LV on a VERY wealthy man that I highly doubt would ever wear a rep. The problem is that it seems the watch has a much brighter, or lighter green, almost florescent.

My delima is I trust this is a gen and I have never seen one at an AD. The photos of real VS. rep on the sights don't see, to show a difference in bezel color and it is never discussed as a necessary mod (always the CGs or rehaut)

Can anyone comment if they think the rep bezel is not accurate? I have a Paul and Andrew rep and another. They all have the identical green color (dark green)

I can't really comment about the color comparison, but, is it possible that the man's watch was genuine, but the bezel insert had been replaced with an aftermarket insert following a repair?

I am lost here, are we discussing whether $95 is a good deal for a very poor looking PO with mineral glass, wrong bracelet and cheap Asian movement? Well, no it is not.

What precicely makes it 'very poor looking'? Wrong bracelet on it? If it's getting a rubber strap, what difference does it make what bracelet it comes on? Who cares what the movement costs if it keeps good time? I was not trying to compare this PO to the UPOs that the Cartel have, and that the 'detail fanatics' crave, I was just saying that the level of detail it has, for the price it costs, are acceptable.

TeeJay...Sorry to say but you sound greedy to me

Do you really expect a 95$ rep to look close to the real thing ?

A Sawtch (with genuine ETA) is costing more than that !

I think you're confusing my motives. I do not expect a $95 rep to look exact to the real thing. I am not someone who obsesses over the details of the reps available. I don't care if it's a 4th gen, 5th gen, UPO. I don't care if there are minor inaccuracies in detail to the genuine article, like the HE being a few mm lower than it should be. As I said above, it is more accurate than my Planet Ocean, and as long as it says Omega Seamaster, not Qmega Seameister, and would pass as an Omega for the average, everyday person who knows nothing about watches, then that is good enough to me

I can appreciate accuracy and details as much as the next guy, but it is not something I am desperate for in my own watches. I don't want to pass them off as gen to others (or go into ADs to try and 'get one over') As long as there are no glaring errors like spelling, totally incorrect fonts, fantasy models etc, then I'm happy

Wrong forum for you

And why's that, then?

i am with andreww on this one, that cqout just looks cheap. fair enough the bracelet will play a big part in that, but still, you are then left with a rubbish mvmt, no ar, short hands etc etc etc

more than likely a false economy, but let us know

Cheap? It looks better (in terms of accuracy) than my Planet Ocean (has 'Swiss Made' below rather than above the minute indices) Is it a Cartel Ultimate Planet Ocean? Not at all. But, in terms of 'getting what you pay for', it certainly appears acceptable. My 2531.80 project watch, for example, probably not worth the $40 I paid for it, and it had a Japanese movement in it, but, it kept better time than my $800 Submariner. Things like the position of the HE, the serifs on the fonts, the anti-mag shield, the AR, mean absolutley nothing to me. (Inside layer AR is great, but double layer AR is just asking for trouble when it gets rubbed off.) I don't want a watch that I could pass off as genuine in an AD, I want a watch that I find satisfactory. To me, as long as the dial says Omega Seamaster, and not Qmega Seameister, I'd be happy with it. Some people want their reps to have 100% perfect detail, and to people like that, I would say buy a gen, as no rep will ever satisfy. Some people (I'd count myself in this group) are only after reasonable accuracy for their own pleasure. For the cost of that Planet Ocean, if it is indeed as it appears in the picture, that would be good enough for me. Indeed, I'll be sure to let people know how I get on, although it might be a while until I have the spare cash to make the purchase.

That's looking excellent. Where was the strap from?

I forgot to say, on the sale where it says 40mm rather than 42mm, I would attribute that to clerical error rather than actual size. Also, with regards the HE placement, don't forget that the bezel is not 'zeroed', and that can 'throw the eye'. If the watch supplied is indeed as pictured, then I would say it was well worth the money, and I plan to get one as soon as possible

TeeJay, you still have not developed an eye for detail yet. The watch you posted has the incorrect bracelet (flat not curved), incorrect HE valve placement, etched buckle, likely mineral glass with lousy rehaut depth. I would guess that that it has plastic movement holder and no antimagnetic cover either. The smaller one is 40mm, not 42 as it should be. I could go on, but you get the point. Go for the ultimate lite if you want to save some coin!

On the contrary, my friend, it's more a case that I don't really care. For that kind of price, I would not expect real accuracy of detail, but it is certainly something that would pass inspection from the uneducated masses, and that's good enough for me

Hmmm.....that looks like a great watch for the money. Shame it's on a bracelet or I'd probably take a chance on it as you say. Silex has a non-Casino Royale PO latest version for

I'm constantly on the look out for watches, be it on people on the seat opposite me on the bus/train, or actors in moves/TV. Always good to see who's wearing what watch

I can't vouch for the quality of this dealer as I have never used them myself, but, they have been recommended to me by another member privately, but how does $95 sound?

Planet Ocean

Personally, for that price, I'm prepared to take the risk of trying a new dealer, I just with I had the spare cash to make the purchase. As you'll see from the link, they've answered all my questions satisfactorily, and very swiftly...

I've had a Daytona since christmas, and, although it hasn't been worn everyday, it is still working as well as the day I got it. It's not a seconds at 6 model, instead, the 6 dial makes a 24 hour sweep. The 3 and 9 dials do move independantly, but I haven't figured out precicely what they measure (haven't monitored it that closely yet) They can also be zeroed with the top and bottom pushers (24 hr @ 6 is a constant with the main hour hand) To be honest, it's not a watch I've worn much because style wise, I prefer 'plain' dials like Subs and SMPs, but, it is a nice watch, and deserves more wrist time than it's received. I got mine from a dealer on LoudFrog for $75. It's nothing special, but there are certainly worse watches out there Best of luck with your purchase

Teejay that Rolex looks really good on a strap!!

Thanks, I really don't know why I didn't try this combination sooner, as I've had my Daytona since christmas, but I'm really glad I did. It might not be 'Corporate Smart', but I like how it looks, and I think I'll be putting all my Rolexes on straps from now on as they're just so comfy.

I didn't think to do a wrist shot, but, this is what I'm wearing at the moment, and, might well stay that way till my new SMP arrives :biggrin:

You could try ClassicWatchParts, but their prices are not cheap...

Hey gang...

Yes indeed, we have a lucky winner!

GhostfaceZX, I will be contacting you for your shipping info shortly

To all who participated- Thank you for helping to make this a fun mini-event! Wish I had a watch to give to each of you...

Perhaps I will be offering more freebs in the next few weeks in the same manner (please keep an eye out for these)... Some may be watches... Some may be cases or parts... Some may be accessories (I need to see what all I have). And, perhaps this can help inspire some other generous gestures from other members as well. While it's great to receive something, it's also great to give something as well.

Have a great weekend everyone... All the best...

R

I, for one, have certainly been inspired. In the upcoming months (any time between now and the end of the year, I am going to be ordering several Daytonas, as I want the straps for other watch projects, and the Daytonas themselves will be surplus to requirement, so these will be 'up for grabs' at a later date. I might do an auction, a raffle, or maybe even just give them away to anyone interested. I've gained a hell of a lot from this community so far, and when able, I plan on giving something back in return.

Congrats to GhostfaceZX, and thansk to Ubi for making the competition available

Thanks for the advice, guys If undertaken, this is going to be a 100% hand-work project, as I don't have access to tools/clamps other than a set of small hand-files. I've gotten totally satisfactory shaping results from them before on other projects (not watch related), but it was the polishing that concerned me. This Submariner project, is not one I'd really planned as an individual project, but will be 'living off the back' of my planned GMT Submariner project, as I need to buy a Sub to provide the dial for the swap, but that will then leave me with a Sub, complete, except for the dial, so I had planned to simply install a no-date dial and remove the cyclops. Then I browsed ClassicWatchParts, and saw a 6200 dial and a no-date Tudor Submariner dial. Either would involve cyclops removal, but I figured the 6200 dial might involve a bit more 'creativity' on my part, so result in a more 'personalized' watch.

I've just been emailed a very reasonable price for a rep vintage 6200 dial, and am now just waiting to hear back on the diameter. I was planning on getting a cheap Sub to put the dial in, and thought that having the crown guards entirely removed, would be a good first step towards recreating the 6200 case. I have done some metal working in the past, so filing them down myself would not be a problem, however, I am concerned about my ability to perfectly blend the area to the 'mirror smooth' finish of the rest of the side of the case. I don't have a dremel, so this is work I would be doing by hand. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

What rep would you buy if you had $600 on your PayPal account (mods included)

Cheers

Sten

Hmm...

For a start, I'd complete my Omega 2531.80 project watch by ordering another watch as a donor,

I'd then order a Rolex GMT Master II (black bezel) a Submariner, and a Daytona so I could build the GMT Submariner project I've recently thought of. Anything left over from that, and who knows what might be on the Shopping List

No wrist shot, I'm afraid. I'm wearing my Submariner, but, with a twist I'd never tried before... It's on the light-brown deployant strap from my Daytona (which I'd been wearing most of the past week) Colors look good together and it feels comfy. My only gripe (and this is a real nit-pick here) is that when the watch is being worn, so the strap is pulled taut, the tips of the lugs extend a few mm passed the body of the strap, so it's not 'totally smooth' to the fingers. Have to admit though, I rather like it, and will likely be putting an identical strap on my GMT Submariner project watch (when I get round to building it) Have a good weekend, folks

Stop being a tight a$$ and just buy her the full ceramic version

If I thought she'd actually wear it regularly, I would My fiance has the annoying habit of insisting on getting something (bag, shoes, top, watch etc) and then seldom wearing it again, so although I don't mind buying gifts, I don't like wasting money on things that will essentially be 'single use' items

As promised, here's a photo of the modded watch. Sorry it's a bit blurry, my phone's camera isn't really suited to macro work...

Hello,

I received the Exploere II yesterday.

The dealer is a local fella I found here in Montreal, he imports from Japan, so I do not think

the watch was built by any dealer on this forum . This is my first "replica" purchase, and

I really wanted to see it before I bought it, that is why I purchased locally.

First thing I noticed is that the X in ROlex does not line up with the L of perpetual.

Second thing, the magnifier bubble is a "very little bit" offset.

I'm not crazy about the bracelet, seems a bit chinsy.. edges are sharp, and I do not

like the way is fastens (clips).

Hand stack is as follows from the face up --> GMT, hour, minute, seconds

I beleive the correct hand-stack should be hour, minute, GMT, seconds? right?

I made an attempt at pictures last night, but the did not come out so well.. (I do not have a light box)

I will make another attempt on the weekend in the sunlight, and post as soon as I have some good pics.

Oh, the other thing is that the grown seems a bit thick, it is above the crown guards by about 1.2 to 2mm.

The Bezel is the comon one io assume as the font is not as bold as the gen. The little black triangles on the bezel are

in the right location however.

The settings are as follows --> C0 wind, C1 date, C2 GMT, C3 hour- minute

Kindest regards,

Robb AKA Flamemax

The details you've mentioned not being too keen about, are the kind of things that one must expect or tollerate to a degree when purchassing a replica product. You're not buying a genuine Rolex for cheap, you are buying a copy of a Rolex. Standards will not be as high. However, I have heard people make similar complaints about genuine Rolexes, (like the second hand not lining up perfectly on each second marker) and got laughed out of the AD, because their expectations of the product, were excessive to what the manufacturers consider 'acceptable variations' in the manufacturing process. I would be the first to agree, it is not 'perfect', but, you are not paying 'perfect prices' so really have to accept that certain details might not be all you would hope they would be.

With regards to the bracelet, owners of genuine Rolexes also complain that the bracelets feel 'tinny' and 'cheap'. Another member of the forum said that he was disgusted when he tried on a gen Rolex, because the bracelet felt exactly the same as his rep Rolex.

Other that those things, and the fact you can actually set your GMT hand, it sounds like you have a very nice watch, wear it well