TeeJay

If I had the cash to spare, I'd be down for a piece of the action, as this kind of thing is too good to not get in on. Alas, I don't even have the cash to buy a new strap for my Heritage, let along this kind of dollar Gonna love seeing how this ends up though, Bill, kudos for injecting some life into the forum

That really is a stunning build, kudos indeed

Just saw this pretty good looking version of the Heritage Nato (on aonther site)

http://www.gnomonwatches.com/product-detail.asp?pid=866

Excellent find :thumbsupsmileyanim: I'll upgrade mine to one of those when I can spare the cash

T, I really don't know, just sort of a "gut" thing that when looking at both side-by-side the black dial "grabbed" me a bit harder! It was a really hard decision as I really like the grey one as well.

lgking: it would be really slick if you had a scanner...

I think it's like with everything, it's all a matter of personal taste, and also depends on how big you want your collection to be I'm only planning ( ) on having three chronos in my collection: braceleted, leather strap, and NATO, (I'm even debating not building a Newman, so I can keep the 1655 on the leather cuff Orlando Bloom-style) so I probably wouldn't want to double up on a model simply to have one of each color variation*, so I can totally understand where you're coming from

* That said, I might wind up with two snowflakes... One in the black plastic case, another on the NATO strap military-style, simply because I've found out today that the plastic sub is just as uncomfortable in the heat as a metal bracelet, making NATO the way to go

I am not limited to a certain size, I am just accustomed to these 44mm+ Pams and Lings.

After looking at photos of different models, I think a Submariner or Sea-Dweller is what I am going to look for.

I like the idea of the "double red sea-dweller", now just need to find one.

If you're not too worried about size, I would definitely suggest trying one, I only thought that size may be an issue, because of your comment on 39mm-40mm cases. The one thing I would say, is going from a large watch, to a smaller one, it can sometimes take a while for the eye to 'adjust' to the smaller size. Going from my 42mm Tudor Heritage to a 36mm DateJust (I grazed my wrist carving, and didn't want a heavy watch rubbing over the wound while it heals) did make the DJ seem really small on my wrist, but, my eye soon adapted Equally, same rule applies when going from a small watch to a large one. Wearing a Submariner, then putting on a Planet Ocean 45mm, and the Planet Ocean will look crazy big, but put the PO on last thing before going to bed, and when you wake up, it will just look like 'a watch' on your wrist, rather than the oversized look when seen immediately after a smaller watch

Hey TeeJay -- long time!

Hope all is well with you.

I have a few DRSD's but I think those are more than he's wanting to spend at this point. I'm glad you mention that though because I think I have something around here somewhere - I once found a bastard DRSD case and made a pretty nice gen style DRSD out of it and posted pics of it. If I can find it, I may let him have that.

Bill

Indeed, it's been a while, Bill, all is good thankyou, I hope all is good with you as well The usual issues of never enough cash, but for the majority, all is good It's funny that I recommended it, in that it's a watch I've never worn myself, or ever really considered for myself, but I figured it had the most 'red' on the dial, as well as having the beefier SD case

I'm not really sure what to suggest... Vintage is definitely good, but doesn't really fit into your size requirement... I've never held/seen in person a vintage Sea-Dweller, but I believe they are a bit beefier than a regular Submariner, so my suggestion, would be to go for a Double Red Sea-Dweller, as that has the red lettering, and the vintage yellow dial, but of course, the size might be an issue... Best of luck with your selection

Thanks for the comparison shots, it's interesting to see the two side by side like that I would say that the light grey outer track of the black dial makes the overall dial look larger, but the black subsection looks smaller than the grey subsection on the other, it really is just a play on the two colors It's interesting that the grey dial still hasn't really caught your eye as a keeper, and I'm wondering if it might be because you do like your 34-36mm watches, and the black dial appears to have a smaller 'main dial area'

The pic is a 7032 btw. here's another shot of it

I have to admit, I did wonder, because of the 'wedge' being on the 3 subdial rather than the 9, but I didn't know that the watch was available with the timing bezel as well

I kinda like the direction that Tudor is going though. Their Heritage Chronograph is amazing. It's based on one of the frankenssuper rare models that Rolex built.

For all it's inaccuracies in replication, I love my Heritage. It (in terms of design) is what I could call a "Diver's stopwatch" rather than a straight out chronograph, simply because it features the rotating timing bezel rather than a tachymeter scale It is big? Yes. I wouldn't call it over-sized though

For me, the new rolexes are just vintage inspired with a bit of tool watch heritage and a lot of over engineering.

That's a really interesting perspective I hadn't considered before... I like it

You are absolutely right, I was referring more to the beginner diver and/or newer diver. not someone with hundreds of dives and Mixed gas certification.My instructing career was before the popularity of Nitrox, Heck, Dive computers were not available when I started. you worked out all your dives with Dive tables. Way back!! Now the computers work out everything for you, including surface intervals, fly,no fly, etc.

One of the things thati nexperienced divers often fail to grasp, is a problem at 30 feet is a minor annoyance, At 60 feet it's a problem,at 100 feet it's a real problem. We have lots of folks around here that Rig dive in the Gulf , mostly spearfishing. Almost every fatality has been linked to a diver following a fish down, all of a sudden he's at 120-150 feet and running out of air, and no dive buddy in sight. Recipe for disaster.

Back to the main subject, i wouldn't have a problem diving with a rep, provided it was properly prepared and pressure tested. You have the skills to take one apart and grease all the seals, make sure the crystal gasket is tight and then put it back together and pressure test it. i believe the key to the process is after making sure everything is greased, sealed and tight, is a pressure test under controlled conditions. One, you can get the watch out the water while the tester is pressurized and keep the insides dry, also you can get a good idea as to where the water is getting in by the bubbles of air coming from inside the watch. The biggest problem with the running faucet, drop it in the bottom of the pool techniques is that if it isn't water resistant, it will flood. if it really floods, you can damage the dial, lume, etc. even though the movement can be dried out and runs OK. Second, if it floods, you still don't have any idea as to where the water got in.

Mostly, I've found it to be the crystal. I wouldn't drop a watch in a pool as an initial test, but running it under a faucet, I've found that the flooding is normally clear on the crystal edge, and slow enough that de-casing prevents damage to dial or movement. Admittedly, not ideal, but I've always found it an adequate measure for 'day to day' resistance

you can't tell them apart without photos of the dial, bezel insert and helium valve .

also, no rep is water proof until you test it. a missing seal will flood the best rep. how do you know a seal is missing? you don't.

By stripping the watch prior to submersion...

I have taken my BK DSSD down 25 feet without any issue. I don't think you can figure it out in the sink though. I know BK does a good job reseating and greasing the gaskets which may not have been done well coming out of the factory.

As a beginner diver I'd think you wouldn't be venturing much below 100 feet. Without decompressing you can spend 7 minutes at 110 feet. Makes for a short boring dive in the dark.

As above, I've read on the forum where the subject was discussed, that a flooding is more likely to occur in shallow/low-pressure immersions, rather than at depth, ergo, shallow/low-pressure testing is the best way to ascertain if the watch is likely to start flooding, before going the whole nine yards with it... I wouldn't trust my Heritage at depth, simply because it doesn't have screw down crown or pushers, but a rep sub, wouldn't worry me... I remember the pic a member posted of a Seiko which had fogged up, so gens are just as prone to leakage as a rep...

Thank you, my good man.

Specs according to my seller:

"MOVEMENT: Swiss ETA 2836-2 Automatic Movement, 25J, 28800bph

CASE DIAMETER: 43mm

THICKNESS: 17.5mm

DIAL COLOR: Black Dial, White Dot Markers, Blue Lume on hour markers and needles

CASE MATERIAL: Solid 316F Stainless Steel

BRACELET: SS Oyster Brushed Bracelet with New Design Divers Extension

FRONT GLASS: Dome Sapphire crystal

BACK GLASS: Solid case back with Titanium Seal, 2 piece Caseback

BEZEL: Full Ceramic Bezel With sandwich numeral insert.. Unidirectional rotating Bezel, Blue Lume on Bezel Pearl

CLASP TYPE: Flip Lock

DATE INDICATOR: At 3:00 position, (Set via Crown, Bevelled Edge Date Window)"

And from what I'm reading, and what you've told me, I should be good to go. I will try your 'easing into the water' method and report back!

Again, thanks.

You're very welcome From the specs, I can't really tell which variant it is, as all the version so far all look very similar, with only minor cosmetic differences, and on paper, they would all 'read' as the same watch... With regards the flood testing, I would advise you to only undertake that if you are able to decase the movement in the event of a flooding. If not, you can always get it pressure tested professionally

do you think the release of this quartz watch hints that a automatic version is around the corner?

Interesting question... Personally, I think that if they could have done an automatic version, they would have done so, so it might be that they couldn't obtain suitable movements. There're certainly enough inaccuracies in replication that a V2.0 could improve on to make it worthwhile, but I suspect that the movement is the issue. Just my .2c though

I've had my "Ultimate Deepsea Sea-Dweller that was purchased through Mary with Watch International.

I'm not sure how to search for my first question and I'm getting different results for my second but..

How can I tell which rep version it is? I've read that there are actually THREE versions of the "Ultimate Deepsea Sea-Dweller" out there.

Second, while I never intend to go deep, I'd love to be able to take my rep with me for casual diving. I'm hoping to go to go somewhere this summer where I can do some basic/beginner diving once I get certified. I'm waaay hesitant to actually do this with my watch but man I'd love to if possible. Is there any way to know what kind of possibilities there are for this piece? I'm thinking like... 100-200ft.

Thanks, everyone. I'm definitely a noobie and if my search-fu has failed me, let me know and I'll go fishing for the answers.

I've no idea about telling the versions apart, but as for water resistance, it shouldn't be an issue. Run a faucet full strength, and hold the watch under the flow, so the full force is going on areas like the crown, around the crystal, and around the caseback. If the watch doesn't flood, try immersing it while having a bath. If it still doesn't flood, wear it while swimming. I've heard that any breaches in the case from poor manufacture, which could cause the watch to flood, tend to flood under low pressure immersions (like above), where pressure from deeper immersions would close the breaches. If the watch does flood under the faucet, just decase the movement, dry the case, reassemble, and avoid getting it wet in the future The only other thing I do know, is that on some of the earlier DSSDs, the HEV on the side moved inwards, instead of outwards... This is an obvious serious flaw (in both water resistance and replication) and in the past, people have used epoxy to seal the inside of the HEVs that go inwards. Hopefully, you will have none of these issues, and you'll be able to wear it for scuba

PS If you want to wear the watch on a NATO strap, here's where I got mine from (about a 3rd of the way down the page) Not identical to the Tudor original, but it still makes a nice combo, and definitely good for hot weather

[Edit to add]

You want the 22mm, not 20

Yesterday I was coming back from a business lunch at a large hotel in town, and upon departing, happen to see a Rolex AD. I thought I would duck in for a minute, as it had been several years since I had been in one. As I had just last Saturday ordered the Heritage (in Grey) from WatchEden, thought I'd see if they had a Gen...yep, both colors!

It is such a great looking watch. One thing I am noticing with the pictures on this post, is that on the GREY dial version, the darker outside perimeter ring with the orange numbers 5-10-15-20...is very BLACK, as black as the bezel. On the photo above is appears lighter in color than the bezel (could be the lighting).

The watch retailed for (after 10% discount, and 7% VAT reimbursement for tourists) approximately US$3,813, which I thought was a pretty good price for here in Bangkok. The Rolexes however were much more expensive. Manager told me that they do not display 'sport' model Rolexes because as dealers they have to purchase 7 'datejusts' or 'daydates' before they are allowed to buy a 'sport' model. They had one (1) 'SS Sub C' they kept in a vault, and it was US$9000, no discount.

Hoping my WatchEden Heritage makes it through Thai Customs (who can charge anywhere from 100 to 350% on luxury goods...a bottle of wine IS 350%...and this being a developing country, there is no consistancy to the wims of Customs...everyday is different...but the girls here are just soooo gorgeous...!)

For what it's worth...

The flash has definitely over-lightened the colors. The outer ring you mention, by eye, I would call Charchoal Grey, rather than black like the bezel insert. If you compare to this photo of gens, I would say that the color of the outer ring is fairly accurate, and if anything, it is the main section of the dial which is incorrect, and not a light enough grey

I've always found 21j to be reliable

Something that only came to me the other day, is how the dial is listed as 'brown' on the dealer site, then last week, I happened to be wearing a brown shirt, and I might be inclined to agree, that it is a shade of brown, which, when not viewed against brown, does look grey to the naked eye... Here's a couple of comparisons with the shirt in question...

Thoughts?

I've been thinking the same things (I'm not too bothered by the GMTIIc, but I wouldn't wear a stock one, it's just a springboard for my warped mind to spin off from with a project ...)

How is it on the wrist? I've found that the dark outer track on the dial of the grey variant, makes the dial appear smaller, I was wondering if the reversal of that color-scheme equally meant that the black dial appeared larger?

As always, excellent work

It's cousin should be in my hands tomorrow...

Today is a Ranger sort of day...

Fantastic, can't wait to see how they look Incase you wanted a NATO strap for them, this is where I got mine from (about a 3rd of the way down the page) I'm not sure how fast the shipping to the US would be, but within the UK, I ordered it one day, they posted it the next, and I received it the day after, so I'd give them a big thumbs up for transacting business

The Ranger's looking good