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TeeJay

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Posts posted by TeeJay

  1. SAWEET!!!!!!!!!!!! :1a:

    Thanks, K :drinks: It's not a perfect match for the gen THC NATO, and there is a black/grey/orange NATO available which is kind of closer in appearance, but it has two problems: 1) The grey stripes are wider than the orange stripe, and, more importantly 2) It's only available in 20mm, so wouldn't be suitable for the THC case anyway :whistling:

  2. Your THC looks great, but that's not the most flattering photo of ol' Tom! :D

    Thanks :good: If I remember, that scene in the movie was when he'd done something to make his face drop so they wouldn't recognize him :D The jacket was a tailored purchase with inheritance money a few years ago, but sadly, the zip on it has failed, so I can only wear it at times I know I won't need to close it for warmth :bangin: It's crazy, the zip parts fit together, but as soon as I pull up the shuttle, the base of the zip just separates again :bangin:

    Wearing this...

    79090N.jpg

    :drool:

  3. is this your construction or one of the new quartz models?????? Looks great tee-jay!

    Sorry I missed your post earlier, amigo, this is a totally out of the box quartz rep of the 2010 Tudor Heritage, rather than a build of the original 7032 (although I would still love to build one of those :whistling: ) If you like the DSSD ( ;) ) I think you'd like this one, check out the thickness of the case on the wrist :good:

    DSCN3740.jpg

  4. Welcome back :drinks:

    The Two-Tone Sub is widely available, but I believe many have the same flaw, where on the endlinks of the bracelet, while the top surface of the mid-link is gold plated, the side-surface of the mid-link often is not. I'm not sure which is the best version to correct this flaw, but best of luck with your search, I'm sure someone else here will be able to point you in the right direction :good:

  5. well, I thought that a 16800 is similar to a 16610, and the only difference is the type of steel used for the case. So you need to start looking for a 16610 case since a 16800 case is difficult, if not impossible to find. Correct me if I'm wrong, but a 5513 case is 39.5mm whereas a 16610 case is 40mm in diameter. So you might have a problem of fitting it a crystal etc etc, if you use a 5513 case as a base. Might as well buy a TW best case from BK, drill the holes, change the insert. However, I would ask BK if gen movement would fit or if not you can send it to JMB to mill it. hope that helps.

    I believe that the steel content of the case changed mid-run, when the dials started using the 16610-style markers, as opposed to the 1680-style, but I may be wrong there... I was only thinking of using the case back from the 5513' but you're quite right, it might not fit. From what I've seen, the earliest 16800s had domed backs, and the next variation was the flat case back, then the different dial, before going the whole hog and becoming the 16610 :)

  6. Good to hear that the Heritage Is shower resistant :thumbsupsmileyanim: ,do you plan on taking It swimming? :snorkel:

    I'll see how well it survives a soak in the bath, but if all goes well there, I will try swimming with it when the weather warms up :good:

    [Edit to add]

    20 minutes soaking in a bath, and still no fogging or flooding :victory:

  7. Wow Tee-Jay thats some dial project. My shaky hands could never accomplish such a feat..

    Thanks, I'm hoping it'll be pretty straight forward, I think the make or break will be how well I can cut out the circular stickers and how accurately I can line them up on the dial :whistling: As long as that phase is successful, luming them should be relatively simple :good:

  8. "a lot of history already for one "fake watch". Indeed T,your Heritage has Heritage. :victory:

    :lol: It has indeed, M :good: In further news, it survived a trip through the shower without fogging or flooding, so I'm guessing that the crown has the same gaskets as on my plastic sub, which is also water resistant :victory:

  9. I've got one of these planned as well, and this is the method I'm planning on using:

    Budget 16610 Sub as the base, which will get the lugs drilled, CGs thinned, and then fitted with a bracelet I currently own. I'm going to decase the movement and remove the hands and dial. Then, I'll remove the existing dial markers, and replace them with custom stickers I have already drawn up. I'll then lume on the stickers, give the dial a spray of matte varnish to even things out, and re-lume the hands. Next, will be removing the bezel pearl, and replacing it with a Yuki pearl, which will have the same lume as the dial and hands, then finally, I'll re-assemble it all, and hopefully, I'll have a 16800, with the only flaw being the text at the base of the dial will say SWISS MADE rather than SWISS T<25. At least, that the plan :whistling: Best of luck with your project :good::drinks:

    [Edit to add]I might also pick up a budget 5513 to use the domed back as a transplant to the 16610 case (assuming it fits and seals water-tight) just to keep it in the early 16800 transition, rather than the later version with the flat back.

  10. I can't really recommend the best one to use as a base for the project, simply because there are several vintage dive watches, and it's pretty much just a matter of personal taste on which to go for :) As for how to age the case, I tend to scrape the bracelet and case on the edges of ceramic tiles/house bricks, hack at the case with a sharp knife, and then use a 4-sided nail buffer to blend everything to a less obvious condition. Here're some pics of my vintage subs for examples :)

    Tudor 79190

    DSCN3646.jpg

    Tudor 9401 (incorrect hands/incompete project)

    DSCN2453.jpg

    Rolex 5200 (incomplete project)

    DSCN2704.jpg

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