TeeJay

I've always wondered what Rolex stands for, and where it came from

And what about all the other names? i know most of them are names of people, but who are those people?

I know that Omega is a symbol, but why this symbol in particular?

And Breitling?! is it an airplane?!!!

I believe that the name Rolex was made up by the founder, in the aim of a word which would be universally pronounceable. I might have remembered that incorrectly though

With a metal bracelet, I can run my finger between the bracelet and my wrist. I can force my watch to twist under my wrist, but it would not do so by itself. I tend to wear leather and rubber straps at the same size. The only strap I wear tighter, is a NATO strap

Why dont you try cape cod cloth to see if they will smooth out a bit, but still show.

Thanks for the suggestion I used a polishing tool and the scotch pad before taking the photos, and it made quite a difference to the naked eye, compared to when the scratches were freshly inflicted. I think the last two photos are the best example of how it actually looks to the naked eye. The first ones really did give the worst possible impression, thanks to the flash

Just another couple of unlit shots which show the scuffing more as it appears to the naked eye, rather than the first flash-lit photos

Looking good When I get a watch with a crystal worthy of coating, I could well be interested

Shocking

It's not like it's a gen

Hate to say it, but there's a distinct difference between looking vintage/worn, and just recklessly damaged. This attempt just looks like the former - unnatural.

Why didn't you just stick to the tried and trusted "masking crystal and jar of coins method"?

To be honest, I've tried the jar method before, and not actually had any success with it, so I figured I'd give another method a try. I'm guessing you're saying it looks unnatural as the impact lines are too consistent, rather than being more random? I could always give the jar method another try, as that might inflict some random damage to 'blend in' the scuffs I've already put in... One thing I would say, is that the flash makes the scuffs much more noticeable than they are with the naked eye. They're much subtler, almost invisible unless the light is directly catching them properly. Here's a few flash-less photos to try and illustrate better

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With regards the above suggestion of dragging a watch behind a car, has anyone ever had any positive results with that, or would I be right in thinking that that is just a good way to inflict reckless damage, and potentially lose parts in the process...? I know the look I wanted to achieve, I guess I haven't been quite as successful as I had hoped to be. My plan was to have the heaviest impact scuffs at the edges of my wrist, where a watch could get knocked/scraped against something over the years, with less focussed impacts on the inner-side of the wrist. Do you think maybe buff out some of the scuffs, and then inflict some more random damage via the jar method?

Two questions:

1. Why does my Rolex require that I unscrew the crown to set the watch when other manufacturers do not see the need for that?

2. Is the magnification window ground in place (from a solid piece of crystal) or is it a small optic that is glued onto the crystal (or glass)?

1. That is part of the mechanism for creating water resistance.

2. It is a seperate piece of material whch is glued onto the flat surface.

Hope that answers your questions

Made the desk was made of hammered granite. Rolex could buff that right out.

I actually used the bathroom floor tiles, exterior house brick, and a green scotch pad I think I've put sufficient 'age' into the case and bracelet for when I can install a vintage dial (and eventually) a vintage bezel

If that is 'minor', what defines "MAJOR" ??!??

I define 'major' as deeply indented gouges which could definitely be felt by touch, these are all undetectable by touch The fun of vintagizing

Maybe a little altercation with a spiney lobster in a lower file drawer that only opened part way.

What?? It could happen!

It could indeed

Stay strong, brother, people's thoughts and prayers are with you

... yes, you are right ... the case and coin trick ... Pugwash told me

I also got some good results by 'slicing' at the lugs and sides of a case with these

I just held them open (by the lower handle) and hacked at the case in a kind of slicing motion, and then dragged the blade down the side of the case as well, to create some nice scuffs A quick buff with a 4-way nail file blended them in so they looked old, rather than freshly inflicted (When doing this, I did not simply hack at the case like a blind woodsman, but aimed slice by slice, as I wanted to create the impression of sustained damage, rather than just a butchered case )

Another view:

Click, as always, to embiggen.

As before

But, as before, I feel the case could do with a few dings, and the dial could do with a little baking to better recreate the age such a watch should be The insert looks a bit too aged in comparison to the rest of it, IMHO

The dial is fine. No ageing needed.

Work done so far:

2842 (slow-beat)

gen tropic

gen crown

gen tube

CGs

aged bezel insert with acrylic pearl

Work still needed:

dial needs shimming as datewheel drags

I have gen springsbars to fit - drilling needed

cleaning of stuff like hands and dial

... and I'm sure there's more. I'd prefer a less aged bezel insert, tbh.

Ahh, so mainly just little but time-consuming stuff... I have to admit, I've got to agree with Mellus about the dial. Don't get me wrong, I love how the 1680 dials look brand-spanking-new (way nicer than modern sub dials) but, if you're going to have the case aged (bearing in mind this would be an appx 30 year old watch, that's my one criticism: that it's 'too pristine', and could do with a few dings...) it wouldn't hurt to bake the dial a little. Maybe not much, or even as dark as Mellus' Explorer dial, but just a little... Of course, that's entirely up to you Regardless of what you do, it's still an awesome watch

Awesome family grouping

Here's my still-unfinished MBW 1680 project.

click to embiggen

One day, I'll finish it, hopefully. Maybe one of you lot would like to finish it for me.

Very nice When you say finish it, what did you have in mind to still do? Unless you wanted to really age the case and dial, I'd've said it was finished Good to see you back on the forum

Interesting Tee Jay, although it is not much cheaper than Rodico, unless it is in your local newsagent!

Certainly worth a try.

O/S

Maybe I should try and carve out a new career as a White Tac dealer

I don't have much choice in what I can wear, but, that's not to say I'm without options...

I just removed the bezel clicker/spring for that proper vintage bi-directional action (well, without the 'push and twist' action )

Never even seen white Tac

But you would guess the oils would still be there.

Offshore

This is the stuff I've never really used it myself, but, I just googled it for the link, and noticed that it's marketed as non-staining

@Tee Jay,

Blu Tac has more oils in it, and can leave stains on dials.

I have used a product which is a tape for fixing down vacuum bag in fibreglassing ( yellow in colour) as a Rodico replacement.

Offshore

Thanks for the clarification, I was just asking out of curiosity rather than necessity There's also a White Tac available... would this also have more oils than Rodico? At least this explains why the posters I put up with Blu Tac years ago wound up with oil stains at the corners

Curious whether you went for the Swiss or Asian ETA -- assuming that is not rude to ask. Also wondering whether people in general think it is worth the extra money for the Swiss. please note, I am not asking whether PT is being fair in charging it (he was great in delilvering my TT BCE) but rather whether Swiss is that much better than Asian to justify the cost. If Swiss lasts consderably longer than I will happily pay the bump.

Personally, I don't think it is, and have always been satisfied with the time keeping of the Asian movements

Is Rodico in any way similar to the product sold as Blu-Tac?

I looked into buying a Submariner a few years ago, but felt that the watch wasn't worth the asking price, so I started looking at fakes online and ordered one (for about $800) I was happy with it as a watch, but didn't feel 100% comfortable wearing a Rolex in my late twenties, and started looking at Omega reps as a replacement. I eventually sold the Sub to pay for costs for my wedding. I can't say I regret selling it, as the money it bought in went to a good cause, and, the person who bought it confirmed that it did indeed have a Swiss movement in it, so at least I know that, although I got over-charged by the 'scam site', I at least got what I paid for (and for less than a gen Sub would have cost)