TeeJay

Okay, just got back from a morning in town with my fiance. One of the jewellers had the 45mm Planet Ocean Limited Edition, and I thought I'd try it on so I could her opinion of if it was too big on my wrist. Her response:

"Don't like it..."

RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR :mad:

Looking at it on my wrist in a more comfortable surrounding (we were offered chairs to sit in, and coffees) I don't think it looked too big for my wrist. It is, without a doubt, a Big Watch, but, was still only lining up a little further across my wrist than the 42, and still had 'room to spare', and didn't 'overhang' in any way. Something else which I asked her about after we left the shop, was a discussion I've been having with another member privately with regards to Omega straps. As we all know, the Planet Ocean strap is distinctly different to the Seamaster strap. On ofrei.com, I thought that the colors looked different as well, but put it down to photographic conditions. I consulted my memory yesterday, and then considered the watch strap today. After leaving the jewellers, I asked my fiance what color she thought the strap was, black, or charcoal grey. Her response, with absolutely no hesitation or comment about the ofrei.com pics, was "charcoal grey". Having looked at it, I would agree 100% Having tried it on again, I'm definitely going to pull the trigger on a 45mm, but it will only be an occasional alternative to the 42mm SS she bought me for christmas.

The first price(New) was 340euro here is the link:Aviator 5...and before 15 days i was asking for 200 Euro.

I will put it again on Sales area.....because now i feel like im thread craping here.

That's a good price. I just wish I had it spare, or I'd be paypalling it to you right now One thing's for sure, that watch is going on my 'Must Buy' list!

Do you remember my Aviator 5 Chrono???It was and it is for sale....Great watch all the way!

Damn!!! That is one sharp watch!!! What kind of price were you looking for?

Not much market. Russian mechanicals have their passionate followers but the affordabilty factor makes them not very attractive to replica manufacturers.

Same reason you don't see Hamilton replicas or too many Tissot reps.

That's what I feared, that they'd be too much of a niche market... Looking through the site I found that one on, I've found some very nice watches, and at wildly differing prices ranging from $31, to $1000... I'm not normally a fan of GMTs, but I rather liked the look of this one:

At $188, I don't know if I'd buy one for myself, but I'd certainly think about getting one as a gift for a friend who is a pilot

For example, one of these...:

WAIT...

JUST REMEMBER...if you are a professional and want to wear a stainless watch to work DO NOT GO WITH 45MM WATCH...YOU ABSOLUTELY will not be able to fit it under your sleeeve.

However, if you want to wear it out with your Admin Pink rolled up ever so cleverly to reveal it go ahead...

JEC

Thanks for the warning. Fortunately, I work from home, so I don't have to be 'corporate smart' I've heard before that the 45mm doesn't go under a sleeve. This would be purely as a casual watch. I do wear button-down shirts as casual wear, but always have the cuffs folded back a bit, so it wouldn't be a case of doing it just to flash the watch

I know this is basic for most of you, but please help me with this simple question.

On a watch with a rotating bezel, do I remove it with a knife, does it just snap on and off?

Is there an inner bezel that holds the crystal that is removed the same way?

I want to be able to access the hands and dial. I'm not afraid of mechanical things, but am just now learning watch basics.

Thanks,

Scott

I found removing a rotating bezel with a knife to be very easy. My advice is to use a table knife with a smooth blade, rather than a serrated one (they chew into the metal) and fold a piece of Scotch Tape along the length of the blade as additional protection. All it takes is a twist of the wrist, and bezel will pop right off. The bezel inserts are normally glued or taped into the main bezel. If you want to access the hands and dial, I think you have to do that by removing the entire movement through the back, but this isn't something I've ever done.

I'm the same. I don't buy the watches for the prestige of their brand name, but how they look. Most of the people I associate with wouldn't know the details of a particular watch either (although might ask if my 2531.80 was real because the current SS bracelet it's on is so crappy) I just like reps to be reasonably accurate to the gen because I'm someone who notices details. Sometimes, like with my Planet Ocean, I had not actually seen a gen up close until I had already the rep, so that was what I assumed they actually looked like, and when I then saw the different details of the gen, I actually prefered the inaccuracies of the rep as they were what I was used to. I guess it just depends on the watch, and which details are accurate/inaccurate. That said, I would not want to wear a watch that could easily be called out as a rep by the average joe.

Thanks folks, I think I'm convinced I'll obviously be keeping the 42mm (when it gets back) as my daily beater, but I think I'll treat myself to the 45mm as something to switch to on occasion like going out with friends for the evening, as that way any drunken shenanigans won't result in the 42mm watch getting scratched up. As I said in the other thread, it might be inaccurate as a rep, but the fact it was a gift from my fiance gives it sentimental value

I guess thats where i differ to most ppl on this site. I dont buy watches based on brand name, i just get ones that look the best. I dont really travel in circles where ppl would know the various models of a particular brand - it either looks good or it doesnt.

I'm the same. I don't buy the watches for the prestige of their brand name, but how they look. Most of the people I associate with wouldn't know the details of a particular watch either (although might ask if my 2531.80 was real because the current SS bracelet it's on is so crappy) I just like reps to be reasonably accurate to the gen because I'm someone who notices details. Sometimes, like with my Planet Ocean, I had not actually seen a gen up close until I had already the rep, so that was what I assumed they actually looked like, and when I then saw the different details of the gen, I actually prefered the inaccuracies of the rep as they were what I was used to. I guess it just depends on the watch, and which details are accurate/inaccurate. That said, I would not want to wear a watch that could easily be called out as a rep by the average joe.

So what do you think folks? Should I pull the trigger on the 45 like DC wore, or, should I stick with the 'safe' 42?

Be careful of the case tube. There are some reports of stripping on these so screw and unscrew carefully. It was the alarm raised about this very watch that prompted me to include this negative in this fantasy scenario.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...mp;hl=stripping

That's precicely what happened to it, and the reason I had to send it back to be fixed. I think crown/tube threads stripping is definitely a common fault with the PO reps.

and they SCREWED UP THE DIAL LOGO ONCE AGAIN. If they got it right for the 4th generation 42MM, why can't they fix it for the Ultimate PO. I have a gen strap that fits my 5th Generation PO 45MM (correct 22MM lugs, wrong shape and size dial logo) perfecly IMHO (only about a 1/2 MM gap between the bracelet and the case when I put it on, hardly noticeable) son I am not worried about the strap. I had delayed a purchased of the Ultimate because of the logo issue, and hoped it was going to be fixed with the 007 PO (then I was just going to swap dials). Guess I'll just have to keep on looking for a gen dial on the internet (anybody know where I can get one?) or just buy the Ultimate.

Have you tried ofrei.com for the dial?

To be honest, I'm not too sure. I've always thought my wrist were quite slim. The angle on the first picture is a bit odd, and I know the other one is quite small, but look at it this way. I have my 2531.80 on my wrist right now. With the tips of the top lugs in line with the outer edge of my wrist, the tips of the lower lugs lines up between the knuckles of my index and middle fingers, give about 3/4s of an inch of 'wrist' with the bracelet curling round... The 45 fills my wrist, but does not 'over hang' at all, so I wondered if people thought it would be something I could wear.

Maybe you guys should get the gen diverstrap?

Maybe the factory should put the right strap on it to begin with

These're the best shots I have of my 42mm from happier times before it had to be sent away to get fixed... I tried on the LE 45 PO a while back and while it did dwarf the 2254.50 I looked at, I didn't think it looked ludicrously large on my wrist. If I was to get one, it would be on resin Daniel Craig-style, not SS like the one I have... Yay or Nay, I certainly won't be offended.

It isn't accurate anyway. Bond didn't have 007 on his watch in the movie. This whole thing is very Disneyesque. You don't see Rolex screwing up their watches do you? Not what you should expect from a high end watch. What's next, a Batman Panerai?

This is very true... To be honest, I do not like any of the Limited Edition watches. They are just a marketing exercise. There was a Panerai in Batman? What model was it?

It was never meant to resemble anything in the movie. Its a special limited edition watch to commemorate a movie. Many watch companies put out special editions, including Panerai (North Pole), Breitling (Various Aviation themes), Omega (Olympics), etc.

This is true, but the LE 45 PO is only available on the rubber bracelet. Unless the factory put the rubber strap on the watch before it goes into sales, the price should be reduced to reflect the cost that an owner would have to go to to fit the proper strap.

Without a doubt Option Two.

When I get my Planet Ocean back from being repaired, I'll have to post some decent pics of it. This definition, however, sums it up perfectly.

2. There is a lights out function version of watch brand/model #1. It contains a serviced ETA movement that winds and operates smoothly. It has passed COSC certification (This is a fantasy scenario you know!) It is really water resistant to 1000M and guaranteed. The case materials are high quality stainless and the case tube is first rate and tough. The watch is a very reliable daily wearer that the owner can expect to get a decade of tough use from and it wont miss a beat. The other side of this coin is that it's a 90% accurate replica. The average Joe wouldn't question it but anyone with a little brand knowlege will spot that there are some things that aren't right. The dial has some font issues, the weight isn't right and a in a side by side with the genuine article, it's easy to spot the flaws. The cost is $200.

It kept time at +6 seconds a day, and had a few details that were inaccurate, but only someone with brand knowledge would spot them. Also, those inaccuracies were things that I prefered over the gen details. Far as I'm concerned, it was the best watch I have ever owned, and as it was a christmas present for my fiance, it has immense sentimental value. Here's the photos of it I've taken thus far. Not the best photos ever, but the best I could manage with my phone's camera:

Nice watch, but without the rubber strap, it is not 007 accurate

Have you measured your Tudor dial? And if you don't have a set of digital calipers, Harbor Freight sells them for a reasonable price. If you're fretting over buying a $100 watch, you're not gonna want to buy a $400 vintage MBW, which may be your only viable option. Gen dials are smaller than rep dials. Vintage MBW's and gen 1680 Rolexes run in the 26mm range. A 16800 dial, I just got is 27.2mm. The rep dial on a TW Best sub is 28mm+. It's going to be a challenge to fit the 16800 dial in the TW Best case, w/o seeing daylight. Everyone else who has built a Tudor sub has used an MBW case, as I recall.

I have a C-omex sub and will measure it tonight, but I already know that it is a CN case because I put another 28mm CN dial in it already. I'd love to fit my 16800 dial in it with the shallow rehaut, cause 16800's had shallower rehaut because of the 3035 movt, but it's the same old deal- gen dials are too small.

I'm not sure of the size of the Tudor dial, as I have not actually sourced the dial I would want yet. The cost of the watch is not the issue. It doesn't really matter what it costs, as long as it will be suitable for what I want to do with it. If the more expensive watch is required, that's what I'll have to get. My concern is buying any watch as a case donor, and it then not accepting the Tudor dial, because I would not wear an Alpha Clone, nor would I actually want another Submariner, as the one I have is perfectly good, so either way, I would be left with a watch I would never wear. My concern is purely about part compatability so I don't order the wrong thing, the price is an irrelevence. If I can use a cheaper watch as a case donor, then that will be preferable, as I don't like spending money if there is a cheaper alternative, but wouldn't hesitate to buy the more expensive watch if that is all that will be suitable. My view has always been "it costs what it costs"

Thanks in advance for measuring the C-OMEX

I know that the latest 2531.80s do not have a 3 marker at all, does anyone know, where it is possible to get one of these dials on their own?

Rumours? You mean FlipLock's trolling?

That's the other name for it

You could always buy one and let us know how you make out.

But I'm almost 99.9% sure that it's a CN case just like all of our other CN cases. 28+mm dial (gens are around 27.2mm), probably a 30.5mm crystal not 29.5mm like in a gen 295C, shallow rehaut.

I could, but if it wouldn't accept the Tudor dial, I'd be left with an entire watch I wouldn't want. I've already got a decent Submariner, and no use for a clone (it would never see wrist time) but if it would be a suitable donor, it's certainly a better option than buying a decent rep and using that as a case donor

I have an Alpha sub and a GMT. Quite good actually...esp for the cost. The bezel inserts are the same size. The cases are a little thinner than our better RLX reps. I don't believe there is enough case material to resize the crown tube hole for a gen tube. Yes...shallow rehaut. You would be better off getting a C-OMEX sub...mine has a thicker case and deeper rehaut than my best rlx sub rep with ETA. But, you can't count on anything since the factories change these things without any notice.Also, my C-OMEX vintage explorer will take a gen tropic 22 crystal. These match originals better than Alpha...see http://www.eta2836.com/ETA2836.com/html%20folder/c-omex.html

Thanks for the tip, Olivia, I definitely think one of the C-OMEX subs would be a better case donor. I can't seem to see any prices on the site, what's the usual asking price?

I've heard the rumors, but wondered if anyone knew just how compatible the Alpha Submariners really are with OEM Rolex/Tudor parts?

Try this guy based in Hong Kong...

http://www.classicwatchparts.com/catpart/c...7mggtkf0d6jq4h3

http://www.classicwatchparts.com/gallery/D...amples/DSC04495

P.

Perfect,just what I was looking for. Thanks

That does make sense!

That's far superior to the impression I had that you're walking around with a Post-It not jammed in your movement

FlipLock, you can stop taking notes now.....

The Post-Iit note was only to force a gap between the edge of the 'pendulum' and the retainer so when it cooled, it would have enough space for the 'pendulum' to rotate. It seemed to work, but today, the 'pendulum' is not rotating as freely, so I suspect the retainer has not taken the new shape... Not to worry, the watch I'm ordering as a donor for the hands and bezel will have a movement Should be able to pull the retainer from that, or, then if the worst comes to the worst, and it won't come off, I'll just have to swap the entire movement over.

Title says it all really