Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

hologramet

Member
  • Posts

    2,143
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    74

Posts posted by hologramet

  1. 3 hours ago, Sogeha said:

    Doing the dial properly is something I am very interested in. Printed gilt never looks right in my opinion. Rolex used exposed brass and a galvanising process. I know TM gold plate dials. I am guessing they use some kind of printing rather than galvanising, anyone know? If it is possible to get a dial printed to an high standard, then the gold plating, case mods and Yuki movement can be done. Meaning for a fraction of the original price we could have a watch all but indistinguishable from the real version.

    Anyway I would really like an 809H dial in a 216A case.

    They use original plates,  either they expose existing brass which then through true negative relief appears,  or if they gold plated the dial and then... 

    However that special someone could most likely make almost every thinkable dial Rolex dial EXCEPT for Tempus Machina DIALS. 

    Let's just say some partnerships would end if there were black market versions made of a semi-grey market dial. I don't know 100% but maybe someone who knows better can say. 

    The case mods and gold plating the hands etc... And getting a real BigCrown not that hard with one piece (or better yet save 750 USD and go with Athaya,  which wouldn't have been an option due to trademarks for Tempus Machina). 

     

     

     

    Let's see now... 

    Recipe for 809H

    BASE:

    1 pc 114060 5990€

    or

    1 Noob V6s/v7 400€

    + optional Yuki 3135 + components for extra stability aprox     1000€

    (Or add a gen for aprox    1800€) 

     

    + why not an optional 700 Twinlock   crown from Athaya to make it more genuine the 5512     everything from 45€ to 140€ (to add gen crown and tube) 

    Gold plate hands or  etter yet buy GMT hands in gold and relume. Honestly I don't know what is most cost-effective since I know nothing about the cost. 

    Heck, gen GMT hands are max 100€ + relume max 50€ / cost is everything from     60€ to 150€

     

    Dial...  This is the tricky one. The correct way would be to get the one who can't be made to do the dial that can't be done.  So from a perfectionist point of view it's about 1500£

    Here is the twist...............

    I think I've found a way to do 99% correct and pay only 200€. It involves Vietnam, if it works,  trust me I will open the flood gates and let everyone know. 

     

     

    Last but not least case mods

    Either have one person does everything e.g. "A certain modding company in Europe, not Bamford". I think we are talking MAX 700€ to have everything done.

    OR

    split it up in smaller jobs.

    - Maybe dbane or Swiss machines (Zocker) does lugs and  (if rep is used rebrush etc) . 100-200 EUR

    - Jmb drills lug holes. 50€

    - Rolojack does remaining e.g. PCGs and final assembly. 150-200€

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    That's about it... 

    400 € (÷1000 € for franken 3135) (+ another 800 € on top for gen 3135)

    Base watch: 400 to 2200 € OR 5990 €

    Crown/tube: 45 to 140 €

    Hands: 60 to 150€

    Dial: 200 to aprox 2000 € (the latter asks for gen dial to use as base,  so a minimum would be a gen 16610 Dial,  about 200€?)

    Case mods: 350 to 700€

    SO

    -------

    Cheapest: 1000€

    compromises in between.... 

    Best : 8590€

    ------

    • Like 1
  2. 13 hours ago, droptopman said:

    Just no comparison. The Tempus Machina watches have no equal. Totally different league than anything else out there.

    Come on...  Let's be honest. 

    I know a modder that  can turn a 114060 into a Tempus Machina both 216A and this one... 

     

    For about 1500 USD.  The trick is getting a special someone to make the dial. 

    I for one think I've found a way around it. 

     

    But it'll be a homage to the homage. 

    • Like 1
  3. So what has resulted from this discussion?

    trusted modders each with subgroups? Which criteria should be used? Obligatory full personal details to staff? At least been known on the forums and conducting work >1 year?

    Which modders do we have then?

    - Spinmaster // Asia // ? 

    - Vac (even if he's rarely here, it's good to compare) // US // Luming, Mods (speciality AP and Panerai) 

    - Big Daz // UK // Vintage relume, speciality 6538 

    - Rolojack // Eu //Major case mods on (vintage) Rolex,accepts custom work

    - Dirk EU, speciality modern ceramic Rolex

    - Mymanmatt // US // Franken Datejusts 

    -JMB, US, custom cases

    - Ruby, US,Reseller of various Vietnam-dials ,cases etc... Accepts custom work.

     

    Please add more...

    • Like 1
  4. When I have an opinion (and I'm good as seing "faults" in RWG.cc) I tend to either see it as either worth discussing and explaining or if it's unimportant, just keep my mouth shut.

    The strong points with RWG.cc is

    - "franken"-mods especially in the Rolex/Tudor, AP and IWC-department.

    - chivalry, humbleness and transparency

    - few but active members

    This should be the core. But theres a lot of good discussions that stay on page 1 a couple of days, and then disappear in the darkness. More stickies... Maybe a guide á la Boneesy on RWI. Vintage/modern Rolex. Vintage/modern IWC etc etc. To avoid the same questions ust being repeated over and over again. The fifth time you write what one should be wary of in QCs for modern Ceramc Submariners... The answers shrink in length. To one day not appear... And the newbie doesn't know why noone is answering his/her thread.

    ----

    Even if it was before your time. If he's a personal accquiantance, wait... even if he wasn't a friend IRL, I consider that your role as a Mod on RWG.cc to sort all the skeletons in the closet, if he's to become a "trusted" or "untrusted" modder.

    ---
     

    The "precautions", "criteria" are one thing to consder before creating this subforum (or something like that).

    Will it be like high value sales that CAVE EMPTOR, and let the market finds its own balance? If so. All members that do mods, even if just a few should fit this criteria. And the customers need to crawl from the shadows and actually take responsability. I'm for direct communication and transparency.

     

    Laatst but not least, there should be a list with not authorised/"trusted" dealers that are very common. This list can also change from time to time. Might be harder to convince a case dealer in Vietnam to join the forum and be active, but if so, then its our responsability.

    I'm thinkng new delers on instagram&ebay like dung_chrono; tonnywatches and kane/ruby; all suppliers in the vintage Rolex-forum. Commonly used and how to get in touch with them requires either a thread (because the info isn't "there from the start) or searching the forum properly (which we all know isn't the route most often chosen).

    /V

  5. 1) So... What did happen when the "beefs" took place according to Spin?


    So far it seems that everyone wants an extra modder, especially in Asia. Legend knows him, and he is both a mod and respected contributor and mod. I agree, the more knowledge and custom modders, the better. However depending on what happened, precautions might be taken initially to avoid same mistakes happening again.

    Therefore,  @Legend, what did happen according to him? 

     

    2) I think that all modders that do work for fun (not living), should get a  sub-thread in the forum. Not saying that they are authorized by RWG, more like harm reduction, because it is and will continue to happen behind the scenes. Luming,  case work, custom parts, assembly... Etc. 

    We have trusted dealers, why not trusted modders. However since most have other priorities in life and therefore can do only limited amounts of work. Then let's get it out in the open. And to protect members from. scams, a deposit approx 1000€ (or something g proportional to the amount of work done pet month) could be deposited. Its just a  (radical) idea maybe the guys that I visualized are Rolojack, Big Daz. Maybe they aren't even interested in such a thing.

    Just my 50 öre

  6. On 2016-07-03 at 2:05 PM, goodytwoshoes said:

    @ChrisBlank

    Hi Chris

    I've been rather busy this weekend settling the purchase of my car. Havent got the opportunity to place the order yet.

    Do you have a payment confirmation from your bank? 

    @hologramet

    Hi Holo

    Yeah I've looked through these two and have a list of the following to look out for:-

    • Rehaut alignment
    • Pearl positioning
    • Date "centered-ness"
    • Sel-Filment
    • Bezel engrave
    • Dial words and colour tonality
    • Crown protector

    As mentioned earlier, I will post up the QC pics (when i finalize  the order next week) for your expert opinions, feel free to comment. 

     

    1) Rehaut alignment, correct

    2) Pearl and insert, that it is the correct v6s-type and not earlier (this can be judged by pearl, depth and look of insert numbers)

    3) SEL-fitment + clasp. That it is the correct v6s.

    4) Crown-guards, don't think there is anything to look for there though.

    5) Dial print, same there... It is what it is. If you want better, have a watchmaker relume a BP Miyota 116610LN-dial (and also the hands) with Superluminova BGW9.

  7. I haven't gotten the energy to answer all e-mails, PMs and SMS that have piled up the last weeks. In short, it was really bad a while, respirator and the whole shebang, but I survived with minor to none future dysfunction.

    Ah, well... I lost about 16 kgs of weight. Not the flubby/mushy kind, more the "I went from fit to Skeletor"

    Who would have known that at the beginning of this build?

    Good for me I got Glidelock on the bracelet! :inverted:

     

    @dpapAll the pics are gilt, and I would say that is what I prefer. This is as close as goldy a no-date sub can get (I think...)

    • Like 1
  8. As always... You don't disappoint. Even if it's a "budget" build.

    As for tonnywatches and dung_chrono and Ruby. For some reason (maybe the youth with better knowledge in the Internet and english) a lot of new sellers have popped up. Some greedier than others. I think they all offer the exactly same raw materials. And In most cases (drum roll... we have a watch joke) you are sure that you get exactly the specimen seen in the pictures 

    Get to know the sellers, and maybe we will find out more about this mystery.

    /as always I stand in awe... may the force be with you

     

  9. On 06/01/2016 at 10:42 PM, mule play said:

    oh brother....

    Yes...

    Sometimes the biggest change vs V5 are the parts missing.

    In short, most often TDs don't see the differences. So it ain't their fault, but they must put pressure on the factory.

    I've written quite a lot about how to spot a V6s-bracelet from a frontal pic (alone) in a thread about a Smurf from intime.co

    The bezel and pearl is tricky as it requires super close -ups and good photo with multiple angles + color references.

    The dials etc dont matter in NY book as I see a professionally relumed BP-dial (approx 150 USD incl labor) as the "only" option next to genuine.

    End of mini-rant. :-)

×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up