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hologramet

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Posts posted by hologramet

  4. Group buy: Tempus Machina 216A (none left) and 809H (1/5 left) also 29mmETA Gilt 6538 (3/5 left)dials?

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    1 hour ago, ogladio said:


    Looks pointy and promising! Pardon the ignorant comment, but what would be best option for other parts for this watch (bezel, insert, hands etc)? Really like the proto 216 dial, might just pull me into another project...

    216A? 809H?

    Noob v7 116610/114060

    Same midcase, same "wrong" 116610 engraving, the 116610 gives the option to go gen 3130 (or semi-Yuki) 

    Bezel insert Noob v7, have it relumed with Superluminova C1 for a 809H, remove pearl, fill with Epoxy, then Volvo Passion Red laquer (there's a reason for my profile picture), then finish with Loctite Superglue as a varnish (yes, it sounds crazy) but it's basically the only varnish I've found (and I've tried a million times) that lets you get a really sturdy and hard surface, that will take basically any liquid possible, and also polishable. 

    Hands? Gen Rolex 116613/9 and relume, or BP ETA 116613/9 and relume or TC LV v2, gold-plated and relume

    Crystal.. That's the tricky one... A real acrylic is most likely best and cheapest option. An alternative is a ProfSteve 2AR crystal (not correct shape though) 

    That's about it. For 216A, a Noob v7 must be remachined.. I know a few options, but it ain't supercheap..

    • Like 1

  8. What happen to the sale thread by Justin_T for the franken Daytona?

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    On 2016-12-31 at 9:15 PM, sacsah1 said:

    Come on guys, let's all be real here. Enough of the kumbaya.

    The seller is a scammer, plain and simple. The watch that he was selling was not a rep, he used Gen pics and offered an amazing deal so people wouldn't think twice. The whole oh I didn't fill out the address? I think only morons would believe that. I have never seen some post service employee fill out paperwork for the customer bcz it's high liability and increases the chance of mistakes. Second, why wouldn't the sender double or triple check the address on such an expensive piece especially after all the criticism and scrutiny he got during the sale, knowing that he is being judged by the handling of this sale!
    I hate trump but sometimes we do get too caught up in political correctness instead of calling out [censored] as is.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
     

     

    When several members, with good experience with modern 5/6-digit Rollies say that it's utterly impossible to sell at that price, and the general consensus remains "not guilty until someone actually gets scammed"... We have to be a bit more critical. 

    Who in their right mind sells a watch for 40-50% as a package of initial parts costs. It didn't make any sense. 

    If someone would sell a

    Phong case 5513

    Gen dial

    Gen hands

    Gen 15x0 movement

    Gen crown/tube

    Gen 93150

    For 3000 USD everyone would say something's fishy, and there is an absurd surplus of 15x0 movements, as far as 4130, there are no cheap watches to steal the mvmt from. It's 2500 EUR from Rolex, if you can purchase a NOS replacement unit, which you can't,, it's much harder than just a restricted dial/hands. 

    If dbane would say a 5512 case is fake, it's fake.

    If sacsah1 says it's a fake it's a fake.

    I may not be a Daytona expert, but helping a good friend build a nothing-except for-midcase-is-rep Franken sure has taught me a lot. 

    What is the morale of the story? If someone says it's too good to be true, only the "I might win the lottery if I buy that ticket"-part of our frontal cortex (read actually midbrainl doesn't want to listen. And no logic will tell it otherwise. When it talks, ignore it. ;)

  9. Rolex 5513 project complete.

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    11 hours ago, azbank said:

    Thank you for the comments. I am indeed very lousy in taking pictures. Will try some more during day light. I also think that CGs should be thinner. I see that on most models they are pointy. Not sure about the lugs. Rolex5513f.jpgRolex5513r.jpg11372478_687486838046615_2117392442_n.jpgrx-5513-SubGiltGlossPointed-5.jpg

    A 5513 with that dial should not have PCG (pointed crown lugs!). Basically most gilt ring chapter dial 5512 have SCG or PCG. And of course original dialed ones with service dial, as the PCG you show above.

    There are about 4 different lug types on 5512/5513

    SQUARE crown guards (SCG)

    Eagles beak-type POINTED crown guard (PCG)

    "Regular" PCG

    Classic crown guards

     

    Don't mix up the PCG and classic CG's as they are completely different, and usually trying to make PCG without enough material to work with doesn't look genuine at all.

    With that dial you should have classic crown guards, and focus on 1964+ models for a correct reference.

    20170101_221041.jpg.997f41ce0722301bb5c25e4c6afecbf1.jpg

    You have some pretty prominent tooling marks that I would try to buff out. Do it by hand with diamond files (dont press too hard) and sandpaper on wooden sticks to avoid smoothing out the contours too much. Good luck! It's a steep learning curve!

  11. Group buy: Tempus Machina 216A (none left) and 809H (1/5 left) also 29mmETA Gilt 6538 (3/5 left)dials?

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    There is a minimum 5 buyers on the 809H, that means 6, 7, or even the 10 won't be a problem. 

     

    However on the 216A, they're already ordered, so an extra batch would need another 5 people.

    Always money up front, what I wanted to avoid, has already have issues with one buyer in the 216A that still hasn't paid. 

    In the 809H batch it seems like there are 5 buyers.... 

    ------------------

    Let's redo... 

    red = spot taken, and confirmed/paid

    orange,  spot taken, but not confirmed/paid (yet)

    green = available

    A1)  216A 29mm ETA (batch 1)

    1- @hologramet

    2- @GBOGH

    3- @ww12345

    4- @ant1

    5- @aphillipe (not paid yet, has good reasons, but dial might go up for sale to other interested member soon)

    A2) 216A 29mm ETA (batch 2)

    1-? 

    2-? 

    3-? 

    4-? 

    5-?

    B1) 809H 29mm ETA (batch 1)

    1- @hologramet

    2- @DVNE?

    3- @aphillipe?

    4- @ww12345

    5- @netniet

    6-? 

    C1) 29mm 6538 (ETA) (batch 1)

    1- @dpap

    2- @ww12345

    3- @hava

    4-?

    5-?

     

    Can the mentioned guys above please contact me via PM and we will do the payment stuff to go ahead with 809H (since it should be full now).

     

     

  15. Blaken Submariner

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Not repped, 

    I've done 2 similar builds so, 

    Your best option is starting with a Noob 114060 (to get the best case and bracelet  base)  make a custom dial from the Noob dial (Helenarou could probably reprint + gold plate the indices also relume while you're at it).

    // 350 USD + aprox 150-200 USD

    Gold plate the hands (you're already doing it + relume).

    //100 USD 

    Add enamel color in the red triangle.

    //0 USD

    Remove CGs + chamfer the lugs

    //100 USD

    Redrill +tap for Athaya big crown 

    // 30 + 35 USD

     

    That's your best option to make the best looking rep. Myself, I find the Tempus Machina 216A a much better watch, so the road to that build is a bit different (but similar) 

     

    Good luck! 

  17. Help needed for a Tudor fantasy build...

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    The Sub-C is made for 29mm dials, the dial opening is >27,5mm.

    So that's a no-go... 

    Secondly putting a friction type bezel is most likely possible, but there will be lot of trial and error and will most likely not end too well... 

    If I were you, contact TigerConcept, if I remember correctly one of his old no-cg cases had a smaller dial opening and  old possibly fit your dial... Also... Plexi is much easier to accomodate also friction type bezel... 

    Or why not use a HR 5513/5517 case? Shave the dial outer diameter and make a fantasy Milsub? 

    The possibilities are endless, but ask yourself... In which end to start? The dial is complicated in several ways. 1) Fantasy 2) 0,5mm too large for 5512/3 cases. 

     

    Good luck,  just ask if there's anything I can help with, 

    • Like 1

  20. Mix-and-match, what can go where, help with builds (6154, PAM622, PAM390)

    in The Panerai Area

    Posted

    Ok, so vintage Rolex, that's my thing. Now I'm in a completely different ball field.

    So.. I have a couple of projects going and will split it up in simple questions.

     

    1) The River 6154-case (new) anyone knows where I can get a low-dome plexi?

    2) PAM622 v2 V6F, what diameter is the sapphire? Any tips on a plexi that will fit? Preferably Sternkreutz or similar. Also low-dome.

    3) I bought a double-AR ProfSteve 35.5 mm diameter crystal, thinking it would replace a broken Noob PAM390. Which... it doesn't.

    Any tips on a gasket that will work?

  24. Let's make - Amer.. sorry - the SELs great again!

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Oufff...

    Well I won't edit it, because I won't hide what I wrote... but not even in the spirit of humor? I mean it's a play on his slogan. And I question his ability to be president since he is neither a good actor or a good businessman. And then I conclude that politics is not about democracy nowadays, it's about media coverage. Neither in America, Sweden nor any other country I have visited (or have friends in) have elections been about presenting policy, plans or anything similar. It's always about controlling the media coverage through advertisments, "hidden" bought advertisment through different tv-shows or about creating media buzz through controversy. There is no bad publicity seems to often be the case (unless the politician crosses the line sexually through pedophilia, or in most countries through homosexuality and/or infidelity).

    I hope my remark and play on his advertisment didn't anger anyone, if so, I am willing to take consequences and apologize to anyone offended.

  25. Let's make - Amer.. sorry - the SELs great again!

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Sorry Trump-voting Americans. You just elected Ronald Reagan again. This time with a toupé older than his wife, reality-TV instead of Hollywood, and narcissistic/megalomanic personality disorder. IQ. But who are we kidding. Modern democracy is only about believing you actually make a difference, when it's still Status-quo no matter which puppet gets elected.

    ...

    sels.jpg

    Consider this more a proof of concept than a straight up guide.

    I was one of the guys truly [censored] when I received my Noob v7 no-date Sub. The SELs were once again just as horrible as the Noob v3 I bought >2 years ago.

    Having a NOS LF Sub-C bracelet incoming, and 2 more bracelets in stock... Why not experiment a bit.

    With the aid of abrasive pads, papers, diamond files, and a dremel armed with dentist-grade polish tips... I went to work. 20 hours later... (and still not 100% done) i present to you:

    DSC_0180.JPGDSC_0182.JPGDSC_0181.JPGDSC_0183.JPGDSC_0184.JPG

     

    Basically what you want to do is:

    The blue part = avoid removing, otherwise you will lose the upper "limit" that is adhered to the lower part of the bezel and your bracelet will jiggle vertically

    The green part = remove little, creating a pleasant curve with the rest...

    The yellow part = remove a lot

    The red part = remove almost everything... until you fear the metal tolerance to the springbar "tube" will crack on ya

    DSC_0188.JPG

    The thick one is an umodded Noob v3 SEL (basically identical to v7)

    DSC_0185.JPGDSC_0187.JPGDSC_0189.JPG

    This is how you create jobs.... Now get to work! :)

    • Like 1
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