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Posts posted by hologramet
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No-one?
Im open to unorthodox solutions too... I was thinking of putting a "steel"-Yachtmaster bezel-insert) in... The big questions is just... how...
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Darn... Isnt there anything I can do with this one?
Put on a fluted bezel? Explorer bezel? Anything? Fantasy/franken-watches is not an issue... Thinking of doing a sterile Seamaster 300-dialed + sword hands...
It such a shame, as the case is in a fantastic shape now after all the TLC i gave it...
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Difficult to ascertain without knowing more about the case origin, but looking at the construction of the case, and there areas for the click spring/stud, I think its safe to say, the bezel will be retained with a click wire.
Would a TC Sub assembly work? Or should I do some measuring first?
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It looks like it has polished center links.. or? The gen has brushed...
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Thanks!
Wrist shots... nahh, not yet. It looks like some weird creation only a color blind-watchmaker could create currently...
I still have lots left to do:
1) Drill lug holes (?), not sure I'm actually going to do it. Don't want to risk messing up the SEL-fitment, also it will be used with the bracelet all the time (otherwise I prefer lug holes to avoid scratching up the whole watch all the time)
2) Wait for the custom dial to arrive + add some fluffy texture to it with Watch-lume Extreme C1
3) Wait for goodluck-hk-gold sub hands to arrive + relume them
4) Change hands/dial + remove date-function on the A2836-2
5) Drill + tap for Athaya Big Crown
6) Fix rocking bezel-issue
7) Change case back to modded one
8] Polish the triangle area to remove some light brushing achieved during sanding + add a couple of more final layers of red enamel paint
9) Change crystal to (most likely) helenarou 6538-homage-xtal (or TigerConcept 6538-homage-xtal) and find suiting crystal gasketBtw.. I've decided to sell one of the extra dials I'm going to receive, so if anyone is interested, especially in EU, send me a PM. The cost is 150 USD + shipping, but I'm letting it go for 130 USD. The ones that have already PM'ed me earlier have priority.
Cheers,
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Thanks for bumping this. I was just thinking about this the other day. He was also working on a 6mm crown. Is that done yet?
Try emailing him: info@athayavintage.com
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I take it this one is a keeper for you yea? I wish Tempus would show a DIRECT photo of the caseback so we could see exactly how their engravings look!
Yeah... I think it's a keeper... Well see how it turns out. If the juice was worth the squeeze, and if the taste was to my liking. Funny that you say that since I decided to make a suiting case back. I present... A modded Sub-C in a bubble style..
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Since I'm mostly a Rolex guy I must be honest and say that after looking at the "classic" sites e.g. Phong, Yuki etc my search has been not so fantastic..
I've found new factory replacement dial w/ hands for aprox 300USD but that necessitates a case.
How is the old rep found at TDs? If so.. Ye... It will be superlumed. Does it take gen bezel insert?
All the best,
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Thanks a bunch!
A tip for anyone wanting to try the similar:
1) Buy some type of epoxy-putty that fastens in 5-10 minutes (e.g. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-2-oz-Universal-Epoxy-Putty-1937545/205478577)
2) Remove all paint (incl. pearl) from the stock triangle area
3) Mix a mini-amount of epoxy-putty
4) Fill up the triangle area (press hard so it really fills it up)
5) Save a tiny bit of extra amount and try to mould a triangle on top... I used a scalpel's side part (any knife will do) and slowly work/press from each angle until you reach desired "angles)
6) Let it dry thoroughly
7) Use some super-smooth e.g. 1200 grit-paper to even it out (MASK AROUND THE TRIANGLE... since the paper WILL damage the ceramic insert)
8] Use a enamel paint (I used Humbrol semi-matte), apply one layer at a time, with the correct dry time between (1-2 days)
9) Clean up the edges with a scalpel and if needed use the same 1200 grit to slowly build up as many layers with the correct form that is needed... -
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hands look bad but the dial is almost certainly a Minh dial
800 bucks?! Ow weee... Which alternatives are available? Yuki? Helenarou? Any of them any good? (sorry for hijacking the thread)
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The redone dial and hands on the "second" 7928... Anyone knows the origin? Looks amazing... Gen or not gen, isn't as important in my book...
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How much do you think you will have invested in the watch out of curiosity? Mine's getting up there- probably close to 2 grand when it's all said and done.. hoping it looks worth every penny of that..
In my watch?
Umm..
Noob v3 Hulk (already had it, but for the sake of calculating): 350 USD // Casework easily took me over 30 hours since it was my first case and I did it little by little as I wanted to get aquainted with the different toolks before messing it up)
Different tools for case work (maybe everything from 30 USD to 200 USD if you count in Dremel w/ Li-Ion)
Bezel = used existing (although about 20-30 hours invested)
Bezel insert = used an old rep insert from a 114060 (same here, easily invested 10 hours before I got it right) (add 30 USD maybe for paint supplies and epoxy clay)
Athaya Big Crown = aprox 50 USD
Dial = 150 USD
Hands? haven't purchased yet = aprox 20-40 USD max?
Reluming = Will do myself, so practically free but sure a Watch-Lume.net starter kit = aprox 80 USD (but that will keep me going for a long time...)
Sapphire = Haven't decided wether to use the one from HelenaRou 6538-case or from Tiger-Concept 6538-case but let say 25-50 USDCosts = 350 + 30 + 50 + 30 + 35 = 515 USD in parts
Auxilliary stuff = from 100 to 300 USD maybe? (but that's a one-time-cost needed for further modding of other projects)
Lost income (or if I would have worked extra with my day/nighttime job) = Well.... hahaha... at least 100 hours at about 30-50 USD an hour ... let's not go that route, this is for fun, it would have been much much cheaper to get someone else to do it, but this is a hobby, for me it's the journey and not the end product that is the most important part
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Thanks. Is there any kind of reference chart or guide that shows which ETA calibers are equal to which Sellita calibers?
ETA 2824-2 = SW-200
ETA 2836-2 = SW-220The rest.. I don't know...
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Breitling SOH 42 mm...
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The red triangle is indeed a PITA.......I've had good success with masking w/ scotch tape, not masking as the scotch bonds better. The red is applied carefully w/ a paint pen, 2 applications maybe 3. I've done it on both ceramic & aluminum inserts! The red triangle is really cool . Be sure to remove the tape prior to the paint cures, an hour or less following the last coat......best, mcotter
I tried over 5-6 different times with enamel paint, but I couldn't achieve the look I was going for. So I finally sued some Loctite "fine" epoxy-cement, using scalpels to mould it to the form I wanted, finished by sanding with 2000 grit (carefully not to scratch the ceramic insert) and finally 2 coats of humbrol enamel paint.
I'll show some more pics in a while...
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I can't agree with the HR Bond-case. The whole ceramic-Sub w/ a twist disappears. Imho, it poses a risk of becoming a "weird" 6538? Or?
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Those lines are super exact, some sort of micro-cnc-milling? I'm thinking it must be easier to do it from stock, than milling the existing bezel.
My way worked. It took hell-of-a-time, and it's much more rounded, but good enough for me.
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I've found a bunch of 46 mm's both regular and chrono, but as far as I know... No 42 or 44 mm.. You might consider a Tudor Black Bay if you want a "smaller" SOH 44/42 mm.
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Really digging it too.. It's leaning toward a similar build but with HR 6538-case...
Got any tips on the salt water and oven-aging?
6538 big crown build V3.0
in The Rolex Area
Posted
What's left to say when everything else already has been uttered.
b-e-a-utiful