Dizzy

Wow where have I been… I wasn’t very active on the forums for a couple years and I am just seeing this now. He was a great man. I sold him my old super patina distressed Comex 5514 build many many years ago. I didn’t even want to sell it but after I posted pics of it on the forum, he fell in love with it and wanted it. I couldn’t say no. I am so sorry for your loss. RIP.

That’s a nice dial. I am starting to really like the tropical dials and I think I need to get one for my next build. Nice work man!

The new ST case will work with the clone 3135 but like you guys said, the rehaut is deeper. If you find an older ST case for the 3035, it will have the shallower rehaut but the 3135 stem won’t line up. A good case if you can find one is the old “Noobmariner” 16610 as they have a nice shallow rehaut. For my 16800 I used a JF v1 and shaved off the rehaut engraving and it’s a bit shallow like you want and still takes the 3135. You need to upgrade the bezel assembly though becasuse it’s junk. I don’t have an old noobmariner anymore but from what I remember it would be perfect for a 16800.

Wow I can’t wait to get mine. Ordered it today! Looks amazing.

The ARF with the SH3135 is the perfect package. The A3135 is a lower end movement and doesn’t accept all the genuine replacement parts like the SH3135 does.

The black dial is one of the worst dials I have ever seen on a Daytona. Look how thick those subdials are! 🙈 swap in an ARF dial and bezel and then you’ve got something. That’s my plan. Next step would be Gen dial, hands and bezel. Dizzy.

Depending what Dw case you have, either the v23 or the v72 will fit. The stem height is different I believe. But yes your watch smith is correct, the dial will need to be glued on and the MM stem will def not fit the v23. My dw case needs the v23 I know that for sure. Maybe you need the v72. If you decide to sell your v23 let me know. You can also just get the MM serviced like I did about 10 years ago and it’s still working fine. Dizzy

Yep as stated above. Clean and scuff both surfaces and clean with rubbing alcohol. Use a good clear two-part epoxy and not any of that quick dry stuff. You won’t need much. Like one drop. Attach the crown back on there and clamp it lightly or put weight on it and let it dry for 24 hours. It will never come off again.

The ARF bracelet is very good. I’m not very familiar with the yachtmasters or the 16622 bracelet but I think the end links are different than the submariner. Maybe an ARF Daytona bracelet would be a good match but it might not be period correct. The older Rolex bracelets are pretty light especially the ones with the hollow middle links. So “wobbly” is sort of the way they were back then. You might want to try to find a JF16610 sub bracelet. They are very well made and would be closer to the era of your watch.

Someone needs to make a ready made eta datewheel with the silver flat top so we don’t have to mess with aligning it. I hate aligning them.

I will have to check my 1680 and report back. It’s an old one I’m guessing 2007 or older. Dizzy

Wow man that sucks. Straight up scam. Sounds like his dealings with Sillix Prime over on Repgeek right now. Paid them western union or something and put all sorts of notes about the website and watches on the payment info and the bank stopped the payment. And now he’s blaming Sillix even though they never received the money. These trusted dealers wouldn’t be around very long if they scammed people out of money. Hope you get this sorted out and there’s an explanation for this. Dizzy.

We shall see how reliable it is and wait for a movement tear down by one of the masters on the forums. Dizzy

I’ve got a yellow gold BP day-date 40 from Andrew supposedly with ETA movement. I doubt it’s real ETA but it keeps good time so far. It’s actually a very nice watch with a pretty good dial. I can’t comment on the gold plating as I’ve only had it for a couple months.

I need a set of those 571’s also. I’ll buy the ones with the wrong markings if you wanna get rid of them. I’m in Canada.