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508-Fanatic

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Posts posted by 508-Fanatic

  1. Guys not for nothing, perhaps the precursor to this ---- 

     

    An "event" that rippled all the way around the world last month, seriously crazy stuff and scientists are just beginning to understand what happened and look into it. 

     

    https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/2018/11/strange-earthquake-waves-rippled-around-world-earth-geology/

     

    @Nanuq glad you are okay, and hope your personal damage was minimal my man. Alaska has apparently been hit by more than 230 ripple-quakes since Friday?!?

  2. 5 hours ago, Revere said:

    IMO the bigger issue with the Noob 4130 watches is the case shape. The lugs' tear drop profile is not as pronounced as it should be. For some reason, without how anal folks in our hobby are, few people talk about this.

     

    I've had mine for two months now and absolutely love it. It keeps +-0 seconds over the course of a week. I was thinking about making a franken with mine, but have decided I am very content with it as-is.

    that would be something one of our great case-shapers could readily adjust for a reasonable price

  3. 8 hours ago, Ssouthall6 said:

    Reliability on the new noob is fine, lots in the wild now and no horror stories.

    Dial on the steel version is a joke, completely wrong. Bezel isn't great either.

    Dial on the ceramic is better in terms of the ROLEX spacing but the Subdials are too fat. Once seen you cannot unsee. Bezel is poor compared to the ARF as well.

    For a Franken project it isn't going to be cheap. The fact noob have a functioning thin watch is pushing the price of gen daytona parts up, certainly on the steel model, on the ceramic forget it, gen parts are impossible to find.

    A good alternative is buy the noob and if you can get hold of an ARF bezel insert and dial do that. Even the BP dial is miles better. Problem is both BP and ARF dials are a fraction too thick so will need to be shaved in order to fit the noob case.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    That's great info! Thanks

     

    I figure a white dial SS SA4130 project will run about $4,000 all said and done with a nice everest strap and semi-franken'd movement with gen dial, pushers, hands, and bezel.

    Well within reason considering cost of gen...but is it worth it over all? I guess that's in the eye of the beholder

     

  4. 9 hours ago, godkiller said:

    (In my subjective opinion and in response to the TC as a watch of its own league)

    TC was a good watch for its time; but then again, it came at a different price point and it's not like the TC was the only super-rep of its time: there were other super-reps back then with a cheaper price tag (notably, those Panerai). Not to mention, the TC had its fair share of bad QC and/or uncorrectable fatal flaws (e.g. tall SEL mid hump, non gen-spec SEL and/or lug hole location -- at least for the V6 and V7 that i currently own. Also, some of the TCs have notoriously-bad SEL gaps as well).

    The SA4130 movement's chronograph functionality is not the only spotlight of the watch:
    1. The SA4130 movement is compatible with genuine parts for franken builds / modding. Therefore, there is no need to cut off the genuine dial's feet or modify the wheels / cannon pinion (to make the movement accept genuine hands).
    2. The SA4130 movement has the right thickness, unlike the following movements: Asian 7750 sec. @6 or the well-revered ARF 116520 (which has a slightly-more bulbous caseback to accommodate those decorative plates).
    3. The SA4130 movement has the correct crown / stem / tube height like genuine, unlike the following movements: Asian 7750 sec. @6, the well-revered ARF 116520 (which has a higher crown height, ruining the crownguard shape when you look at it from the side), and JF 23j faux chrono movement (the crown height is too low and it affects the crownguard shape as well).
    4. The SA4130 movement's pusher is made to gen-spec and this influences the aesthetics of the pusher location on the case, unlike the ARF 116520 V1 which originally had stubby pushers.
    5. Modders, owners, and watchsmiths on RWI have praised the quality and reliability of the movement. As previously mentioned by Tickleshoes, he noted that even the quality of the reverse wheels is top-notch and manufactured like its genuine counterpart.

    In a nutshell, the development of the SA4130 movement to be a 1:1 clone (of the genuine equivalent) not only brings us chronography functionality (like gen), but it also influences the aesthetic and construction of the case shape, as well as the compatibility of genuine parts for modders and enthusiasts.

    Also, it doesn't hurt to own something different and unique from the current rep offering? I mean, NOOB CLONED A FREAKIN' COLUMN WHEEL CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT!!! If you look at the technical aspects and intricacies of the 4130 movement, then $658 is just a small price to pay for such a feat with the above-mentioned advantages.

    Well said! Here here!! Going to order one and Franken the [censored] out of it haha

  5. I dumped a ton of cash into a ‘66 Gilt PCG 5513 build and then traded it for a basically gen 16610 super Franken because it wasn’t perfect and it annoyed me. Then I lost money on that too. Live and learn. No more high-end franken’s for me. Just picked up Lawton’s Pam029 with ETA (same movement that was in gen, albeit tweaked a bit in gen) and a gen strap. That’s about what I’m good for these days. 

    9 hours ago, By-Tor said:

    We used to have an "unwritten rule" that you always have to sell the rep cheaper than you invested. Or maximum get your own money back. 

     

    In the old days I bought this franken-Explorer for 350 Euros from a fellow member. This had a GEN DIAL, correct hand stack and brilliant Noob case. He just wanted to sell it to me because I probably helped him in some other issue. Can't remember. But it was all about friendships and moving cheap knockoffs for cheap prices... and HAVING FUN.

     

    Otgfs4V.jpg

     

    At some point it changed and standard out of the box reps didn't get much attention anymore. It had to be "perfect" franken and a lots of money invested. And the dealers increased their prices significantly. That's when I started to lose interest. Why buy a $1K franken when you can buy very nice gens for $2K? I bought my gen Bond Seamaster for 1000 Euros. People invest more money on franken-build vintage Rolexes that still don't fool the experts. What's the point?

     

     

    Trusty Time is asking $368 plus shipping for THIS. I mean really, I can understand paying that much money for a WM9 but this is a JOKE. And very bad one at that.

    I wouldn't pay $5 for this piece of [censored]. 

     

    Let me see... they have installed spiky Submariner crown guards to a GMT and thick GMT-like crown guards on a Sub. That's just pure genius. 

     

    Blind people could tell this is a fake... from another planet. This is just laughable.

     

    And $386 plus shipping. You gotta be kidding me! :D
     

    veBwOWZ.jpg

    The OOB vintage reps are horrible and I have seen some people trying to part with high end franken’s on here lately with no success. I feel like with the addition of mid-level boutique brand gen pieces it gutted the upper level franken market, am I wrong? 

     

    The new manufacture movement tudors are only like $3-$4k but I suppose everyone has their own financial lane. 

     

    Would you rather wear a genuine $4k watch or a $4k franken of a $60k watch... that is a big discernment point for today’s community imho

  6. I'm genuinely considering purchasing one of these SA4130 clones. I have always lusted after a Daytona but can't bring myself to plunk down the $10-12k for a nice one. My gen range is in the $3.5k to $5k range, that's where I live. That said, I'd be happy with this until someday in the future I can discreetly just "swap it out" for a gen... :) 

     

    https://puretime.io/watch-brands/rolex/daytona/daytona-116520-noob-1-1-best-edition-904l-ss-case-and-bracelet-white-dial-sa4130.html#

     

     

    • Like 2
  7. 6 hours ago, godkiller said:

    assuming that you mean fake deco plates that conceal a generic movement (e.g. ARF + deco plate + modified 7750), the noob sa4130 doesn't use deco plates - it's literally a 1:1 clone 4130 movement. On RWI, misiekped has already successfully swapped in a gen balance.

    i just ordered one. I will keep you updated on the rotor noise. As for the reliability so far, the feedback appears to be extremely positive on RWI. Members from there reported excellent timekeeping and no faults when playing around with the chrono

    Seriously? I just assumed that like every other maker they were claiming "1:1" based on the deco plates! This is huge, how come nobody on here is talking about this?

  8. 7 hours ago, godkiller said:

    Thanks! Same steep price though, what do you know of rotor noise (whizz) and reliability?

     

    the quality of deco plates means nothing to me - I’ve held a gen 4130 movement in my hand and it’s a work of art, no rep deco plate will fool anyone (and I’m not looking to fool anyone with unexposed internals)

  9. 116520

     

    The number above represents a benchmark goal in the rep world, in my opinion... 

     

    I've been through at least 2-3 iterations of this watch, always with flaws, too fat, too explodey, etc. 

    I tried one of the ARF 904L ceramic daytona's with faux-chrono's until a buddy of mine was like "dude how come your flash watch don't work"

    Lol... embarrassing.

     

    What do we think of this? The reliability and functionality?  Can anyone share any insights... the price is steep if it's something that doesn't deliver

     

    http://www.trustytime.biz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=352&products_id=19155

     

    ROLDYT0245A - Daytona 116520 SS/SS Black 904L Noob Asia 4130 Mod

     

    ROLDYT0245A - Daytona 116520 SS/SS Black 904L Noob Asia 4130 Mod

     

     

     

  10.  

    Ladies and Gentlemen - I am in love with this piece!!!

     

    I might opt for the gen in time (gotta save up like a normal person lol) but wondering if anyone has seen or expects a quality rep?

     

    https://monochrome-watches.com/tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-39mm-79030n-review-price/

     

    Seems like everyone is focusing on the boring new Rolex 39mm models....and this fake 904L steel. :( Lame.

     

    Do you guys like it? 

     

    Tudor-and-its-heritage-How-vintage-submariners-inspired-Tudor-Black-Bay.jpg

    • Like 1
  11. 2 hours ago, paneristi_man said:

    Rule is cheapest usually are the ones with bit more "tells" than the more expensive, so if compared to gens it's bit more obvious it's a rep.

    The more expensive usually better in closeness to the gen. But avoid the most expensive due to different movements i.e that is being touted with "Swiss movements".

    You wouldn't know if they stuck a Chinese movement in a supposedly Swiss movement watch, cos you'll never open the watch unless you're such an expert or you have to service it which by that time is too late to get any refunds.

     

    So if you are happy with just a rep that has some tells, buy the cheapest. If not go a bit higher but stay away from "Swiss" movement.

     

    That's just my opinion and if they are those out there who are adamant about getting Swiss movements as best, then my apologies. 

     

     

    I would second the idea of staying away from "swiss" movements, chinese sweatshops getting genuine ETA or Sellita movements and then putting them in clean is borderline laughable. If you want Chrono features and a cheap rep try to go Quartz, sweep will be a tell but the movement won't explode after a few months like the A7750's are prone to.

    Having had an omega rep like this one thing to be aware and cautious of is the lettering paint on the rear case loves to rub off or otherwise disappear which is a huge and immediate tell. 

     

    Also there are makers out there using a much more accurate black or gray balance wheel instead of the brass which is an immediate tell as well.

     

    Good luck :) I almost always suggest closed-caseback reps.

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