marlin22

Well if I have anything to do with it, I have already made sure that PP limited his account, so he can't do this to anyone else. I have sent PP all his info, and will make sure PP stays on his ass. I will try my best to get PP to boot him out. PP was nice enough to refund me a tone of fees to bring my account back to positive and they assure me I will get my money back, and that Mr. yonatan wont be so lucky. For others that this has happened to, fight it, as long as you have tracking information and it shows that the package was delivered, PP will fight to get you back your money.

This is confirmation, this guy is out to scam. His scam is a good one, because everything goes as it should with PP. Not for a couple of weeks after will the scam take effect. At this point I will be sending everything I sell insured for the full price paid by the buyer, I will give the buyer the option to decline the insurance. If buyer chooses to decline insurance then payment must be made as gift. This is an unfortunate turn of events, because the majority of us in this community are honest and straight forward. It only takes one person, out for themselves, to ruin a good thing.

Thanks, it seems I'll get my money back, as I sent PP all emails corrispondence, including the one he sent saying he lrecieved the watch and loved it, and complete tracking history of the watch. The only problem is I won't see my money for 90 days. In the event this guy decides to come on here again under another user name here is his info. SELLER BEWARE!!! Yonatan Ezogue 4 arlozorov street 63404 Tel Aviv TEL AVIV ISRAEL +972522902212 yonatan.ezo@gmail.com Live and learn I guess, I've sold over 30 high end watches and this is the only transaction with a problem, everyone else was professional and a pleasure to deal with, it's a shame that there is always one that screws everything up! To be continued.......

Hi Everyone, Sold a watch to Mr. yonatan.ezo, I received payment through Paypal. sent the watch, tracked it to its destination. He emailed me verifying he received the watch and that it was amazing and he was very happy with it, this was on August 29th. Today, PP contacts me to let me know that Mr. yonatan.ezo has place a charge back on his credit card, claiming that the transaction was not authorized. I have contacted him, he says he did not do it, and now he has gone silent. In the mean time the funds are on hold. What I am wondering is has this same thing happened to anyone else with this member who has for whatever reason been banned from this forum? I would also like to know if he was banned because of such behavior? Thanks

Everything was purchased on Ebay.

Hi Everyone, In between all my Panerai builds I had time to put together a pair of 1894 homage builds I wanted to share. They both have classic Omega 30T2 (Cal.260) I cleaned and serviced them both before the build. The movements date back to the mid to late 40s, judging by their serial numbers. They are still running strong after all these years. I have always been a huge fan of the Omega scientific dial, it's old school, but very classy and timeless. I'm still looking for a SS case for the silver dial watch but they are few and far between. There are still a few refinements I need to do to the cases. but over all I am very happy with the results Here is a link with a little history of the 1894 watch, it was this article that made me fall in love with this watch. http://ninanet.net/watches/others09/Mediums/momega1894.html Here are my babies Here are the original Omega 1894 Homage produced back in 1994 on the left and Omegas classic Chronometre 30T2rg on the right. Thanks for looking....

Correct, I meant to say the more you use the watch the better the Swiss components will last as they are more robust compared to their Asian counterparts. The Swiss engine also helps the resale price in the future. This is not to take away from the the Asian engines, they are good products and way less expensive than the Swiss. By the looks of things we might have to all begin to get use to the Asian products, as the Swiss parts become more and more expensive and even more rare. ETA is starting to cut down on sales to the open market.

You can try Torobravo, he usually stocks them and has very fast shipping.

Totally agree, your best bet, and most economical solution is to find a better quality replacement.

It is such minute amounts and the fact that I always use heavy latex gloves that it does not concern me. Now rhodium is another story, it gets in the air and is toxic, I have to wear a face mask to keep from breathing it in. Some guys have all the luck, Andy.....

Why is it I can't say The Zigmeister with out the server putting his full user name(the Zigmeister) Yet, Andy can say The Zigmeister????see there it goes again!!!!!

The Zigmeister, Andy is correct, the plating process is so thin that it does not impede the functionality of the piece at all. The thickness of the platting is determined by how long you immerse the item and allow the the gold or other type of platting solution to deposit their molecules on to the surface of the object you are plating. It is a great deal of trial and error, voltage adjustment and just overall tinkering around until you get it just right. there are charts online that explain the voltages and immersion times, but they are different for each solution. To avoid the arbors and such I use a spot plating technique, I use this on the gear train, so as just to plate what needs to be plated and everything else remains unplated. BTW, I just noticed on the close up picture that one of the legs on the spring looks like it is not seated properly, I'll have to seat it properly into its notch. Rolexman, I actually had to bring the voltage down to get a lighter look, if it is too high it will actually look tarnished, it will look like it is burnt. I wanted it with low luster, like the real incabloc. I can polish it and get a high nickle luster but it just doesent look right. I had to set the voltage to 3.5 volts to get the look just right, it's not perfect but I think it is close enough. I am sure there will be some gremlins on this build as I did it just to see how far I can get with these Asian pieces. So far though, it has been working flawlessly for two weeks.

Hi everyone, With all this talk about how rep. watches are going to get scarcer and ETA parts going up in price and down in availability, I figured I'd try something a little different. Here's what can be done with Asian parts a little creativity, some tools and lots of time... I am going on holiday at the end of the month and I wanted a watch that was not over the top, but yet stylish and elegant, the PAM 111 fits the bill perfectly. This watch is completely 100% Asian from top to bottom, and is a combination of many different parts from different factories and even parts from older version movements, thus where the title of MUTT comes from. So let me elaberate: The case is an H-Fac. 111M case with an H-fac. modded CG. I modded the GG pin by shaving it down some and polishing it. I trill need to work on the inside corners a little mor to make them square, but it will do for now. The Dial and hands are the Noob 111N super lumed version The case back is Noob 111N The movement is based on the Noob Platinum plated 6497-2 modded heavily using only Asian rep. parts, list of mods follow: Asian upper shock system was filed to imitate the Incaboc Y system, once filed the brass came through, so after it was filed to the proper dimensions, I beveled the top the completed the look by plating the entire thing with nickle platting. It's not perfect but it is close enough, it took me 3 tries to get it this close. Asian gear train was brushed and gold plated to mimic the ETA brushed gear train. Asian crown and ratchet wheels came off of an old style 6497 movement that I had lying around from DSN, They didn't have the big step bevel the new Noob and H fac. wheels have. I polished the teeth to a high luster to mimic the ETA polished wheels. Again, not perfect but very close. I completed the look of the movement by adding the longer micrometric screw from an old H fac. low beat movement. The rest is the untouched Noob 6497-2 that came with the 111N And VUALA here it is, all Asian mixed bread mutt PAM 111N To the pictures.... Thanks for looking....

I agree, Toro has never failed me, and yes he is short, but to the point and delivers....

Love the 177, love the look and the light weight. Great pictures, enjoy it.

It's a 6497-1 low beat ETA with Asian bridges, I have an ETA center wheel if you need one. PM me your address and I'll send it to you. Andy is correct, you can tighten the CP, see the pictures using a staking tool, you can cheat and use a small wire cutter or even a nail cutter to crimp. The latter is not for the faint of heart, crimp too much and bye-bye CP. Use a needle or a copper rod as an insert to support thr CP walls from being over crimped, but again be careful and definitely not for the novice, unless you have a good supply of CPs

All watch related companies are tightening the noose, I got word the other day from my Swiss contact that prices for ETA parts and movements are on the rise and are going to be harder and harder to acquire due to the big corporate entities wanting to limit the distribution of ETA parts on to the open market. So its not just China cracking down. All I can imagine is that since the economies of the world have slowed, people rather buy a good rep. for under $1000 as opposed to a $6k watch, and it's effecting everybody's bottom line. So it looks to me as if things are going to get harder in the future, hope I'm wrong, for all or sake...

+1

I just received two watches (127/217)today from one of our TD. I bought them for full modding by me, and was very surprised by all the QC problems I have found on them. I figured I'd share so the membership can learn what to look for. 127: Biggest problem was the fact that it came with only one CG screw holding down the CG and a noticeable dent on one of the lugs. Next, there were fingerprints all over the movement and a very obvious paint overflow right by the OP text. 217: The 217 did not have as many problems, but the again it is not as popular as the 127. That said, it still had fingerprints all over the movement, even on the pallet bridge. And as I've seen on almost every CDG bridge, they all seem to have micro scratches here and there. In many cases they are not visible to the naked eye, but they are present. I am curious if anyone else has found these or other QC problems with their Noob watch. I know there have been several 111 sent out with loose set lever screw. I must state I do not request QC picture from my TD because I completely dismantle the watch, change and clean the components, and for the most part I can fix all the problems I find, but I think that starting today I will request QC picture! And I advise everyone else do so as well...

Ahh, the privileges of going PLATINUM!!!!! I now have platinum envy....LOL

Offshore, your right about taking out the 4+ minutes, but by the looks of it the hairspring in the picture, it does not seem distorted in anyway or tangled at all, it looks normal and completely concentric, assuming that's the picture of the watch. I would imagine that the 4+ is a guesstimate since there is no test equipment to verify the watches true timing, and the fact that the user just received the watch a few hours before. He could smack it, but if the hairspring has been magnetized it will continue to affect the watches performance. I believe it is an amplitude problem, if the balance has a very small amplitude swing it will make the watch run fast. It could be an improper main spring, not allowing enough amplitude to the balance. It could also be a problem with improper oiling, or problems with the gear train, escapement wheel, extra extra. The only true way to know is to put it on a timegrapher and check beat error, adjustment and amplitude. This could be a long list of possible defects, but judging by the picture, the hairspring does not look magnetized. Though of course I could be wrong, I am only going by the one picture given. See picture below, the hairspring shows no deformity and is evenly distributed within the red circle. It doesn't seem to be sticking to the balance [censored] either. Funny, the profanity editor censored [censored] so lets try balancecock

Watch needs the timing/beat error adjusted, you can try it on your own, but in order to achieve proper adjustment you will need a timegrapher. You could probably get away with the iphone/ipod app Kello, but it wont be as good. Check the forum I am sure there is thread explaining the procedure.

Thanks Jkay, I walked him through it. It seems someone at the noob factory keeps forgetting to tighten the set lever screw. I've seen the same problem on multiple noob 111s and more than one member has come on the forum complaining about this issue.

It does seem like they have been cracking down more and more lately.

I'm going to PM you now.