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Vintagewatchmaker has them if your Zenith movement is stock. If it has been altered too the Rolex 4030 movement then you will need Rolex hands. I had the 400 and Phong put his hands on it and they worked perfectly. But if I were you I would locate a super lum dial because his hands glow. That drove me nuts going into a club. My hands would glow under the UV lights but the rest of the watch didn't. Good luck.

Nice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is almost $2000 over retail. I will wait. I hope this one fills the spot I have for it. Dont want too drop that much. I might sale my 116610 and my 116710. Those are all I have been wearing since I finished them. Or I might break up a bunch of watches or sale them. I have crazy builds. All rolex and all rolex minus midcases. My 16610LV which is all rolex but the phong midcase case, my 1680 which is all rolex but the phong mid case and I just finished a 16610 U serial number all Rolex. I think if I brake them up or sale them as is I might have enough to cover the sea dweller with out going into my bank account. Heck just in movements that is 2X3135's and one 1570. Then LV dial and LV full bezel. Parting it might be the way too go. Man I hate getting bit by the rolex bug. Last time I did this I had my AD hunt for a 2000 16610 for nostalgic reasons and I over paid! Then my wife's Yachtmaster. Before I do anything I will wear the ARF for a few too see if I like it. Doing my math you paid a lot over retail. Here in the USA the 122660 is $11,350. I put $1000 down to order it. Now if you paid 16,500 AUD at an exchange rate of .78 AUD to 1 USD that make is $12,926 USD. So $1576 dollars over retail. My AD is telling me to give them an extra $2000 and they will have it quick. That is bad form. I would never. I remember my Porsche dealer trying too do that for my 911 turbo. They wanted $15,000 over sticker and I would get it. I drove to the next state PA which had a lot less people and brought it there and I drive it to my local to get the free oil changes! It makes me sick when they try to screw us. They are making crazy money on us already. (I'm back talking about Rolex, although Porsche does too!) It is just greed to try too milk an extra $2000 out of us!

Did you pay over retail or less? You got everything? Box and papers?

God that is beautiful! How long did you wait for it? Im stuck on a waiting list at my AD. He has tried too tell me to give an extra $2000 over list and I can have one asap but that doesn't sit well with me. I will wait and cancel if I like the rep. I have too many real Rolexes right now. Might have to thin the heard. There is a few things that stand out on the real one over the fake. The grooves in the bezel are larger. The crown is thinner and higher up. The rehaut is polished. Not a big deal as I can polish it. But still. I also saw on my QC pics that the date wheel is different and not correct. I need to find a nice over lay.

You posted the site brother! Puretime5

Just read who is a trusted dealer and go on their thread and look at The praises and complaints.

That is the issue with reps. Rolex is perfectly centered on single date and double dates. Good thing is that it’s an eta rep and you can use a TC date wheel or a good overlay.

Do you mean the bands? I know that the noob bracelet fits the ARF. I just got one from pure time for a client and upgraded it. I didnt take pics and he picked it up last week. The SEL looked fine. As far as the ARF 116610. You do know that it isn't 904 right? According to Puretime it will take a real bezel insert and crystal.. I am not a fan although it is $100 cheaper. Handling the ARF 116610LN I will tell you that it feels like a Noob. The insert looks nicer out of the factory and the rehaut looks OK. Still too thick but who can see it with their naked eyes anyway.

Looks great. I am going to have too order one. I have a deposit on the real one since Sept.

I wanted too add a few things here. From the orig. post, the OP is talking about the rocking action on the bezel of the ARF when pushed down. This is very normal on a REAL Rolex. That is why the clicks are on springs. It is made so when downward pressure is made on the bezel it is easier to rotate and the locking click stops it from going back, even though on a real 116610 there still is a slight back movement. On the pre ceramic versions rolex put the tension gasket in to perform this action, so when you would push down the tension gasket released pressure and you could rotate it easier. Anyone who builds rolexes or reps knows that the tension washer sucks if not perfect. If it is off at all it will lock your bezel and you wont be able to move it at all. This is why I use Rolex parts, from crystal ring to bezel to tension washer and insert. Back to the ARF. The sharpness of the ARF bezel can be taken care of by a simple mod. If you want them duller then make them duller. Take pics of a real one and work the bezel teeth to look like the real one. Where jeweler magnifying shades and go too town. I am very close to cancelling my order of the real 126600. Only thing stopping me is the possibility of price increase. But I dont think it will be there. History would show it would be but China has gotten so good at Cloning a Rolex that I dont think 40 years from now that this watch will be like a 60 red sub. Why because there will be so many clones by that point and probably undetectable. Think about this hobby and how it has grown in the past 5 years! Hell I can take a noob case and build a perfectly all Rolex 116610LN minus the mid case! Think when they use 904L and get the rehaut engraving down. Then the bracelet! They will use 904 and have that down. So when my 126600 come in I will most likely flip it ASAP. That is the only reason I am letting them have my deposit. LOL. I am so close to ordering the ARF and just modding the crap out of it. I have the ETA2824 for it already. I was hopping for one too pop up on M2M over at RWI but it has been down. The ARF so far was the closest I have seen. There is another thread over at RWI where we are talking about the dial. When I went and ordered it I looked at the Rolexes Display watch and didn't notice if it had a matted dial. I was wearing my sub and it looked extremely similar to my 116610LN dial. But the red popped out. Very RED. But I have seen pics now in out side videos and pictures, where it has a matted look. So I am actually thinking of going back to NYC for a day and looking at the display again and see if they allow me too take a picture of it. I am dying to know. I dont know anyone who has the real one. But I know the sea dweller ceramic does have a matted effect on the dial so maybe they did this one the same. So these are the reasons I am not buying the ARF yet. The movement with a new ETA will last for years. The dial, if I can get it correct, amazing. I will mod the bezel to be what I want it too be. I want the 904L just for the difference in feeling of the bands. Extremely excited about how far our hobby has come in the last few years and cant wait for the future.

Heard nothing but horror stories. It isn't a 3187 clone it is a doctored up Again clone of a 2836 where they made their own CHS parts and rigged it. Listen to Mike and just enjoy while it last but really you can only see the CHS what 2 times a day? While if your sitting next to someone one like me and a some others, I will see it, lol but really, 99% of the world wont. I would stick with a real ETA 2836 version and enjoy the watch for a few years while you make up the decision to buy the real one. The other option is have Misiekped (Mike) put in a SH3135 modified to a 3186 and get a keeper! Best option besides a real one.

It will be the next rep I pick up. The one thing people are confused about is the hands motion. It is true that the new rolex movement adjusts just like a 2824 but the quick set is different. The new rolex works a lot like the 3030 family. Where on quickset one way winds and the other moves the date. Where the ETA one way doesn't do anything while the other way changes the date. So yes. It is nice but detectable. I look forward to getting this watch and throwing a real ETA maybe relume hands and dial and call it a day.

The movements have gotten better for the hobby but let’s not forget they are cheap and not reliable. The sa3135 is probably the one that comes too mind. All the noobs I got, they ran great for a little while then issues. Low amp bad reversing gears. Massive tension on the stem. Stem breaking. But man, when it ran well it was great. Now good luck getting parts for it. The A2824 seems too be the way too go if Rolex changes the movement on subs to their new movement. It will just need a nice cleaning and service. Realistically a real new 2824 or a SW200 will probably be a better deal. They both can be had for under $150 and last forever. When it comes too a 3186. Converting a Sh3135 is the best way too go or real Rolex movement. Both of those options are expensive but only reliable CHS option. The China CHS are non reliable. One thing I heard is if you leave the GMT hand alone that it will work and people have had theirs for awhile. What we need is noob or JF to make a case that can take a 3186. That would be amazing jump for this hobby.

Mike (Misiekped) is the best I know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sachah1 is on point. Is he going to try to get the sun burst off the Hulk? That is a large giveaway. Buddy today showed me the hulk with out direct light and it looked black! Wow. It almost made me want to get a LV set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you brother. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Breath taking. Im a fan of the the LN but it is a beauty. All Subs and GMT family are. I wish the OP would get a pic like that! LOL. So true! Getting harder and harder from pics. Hulks are still off on dial color and insert color. Subs BP has a nice dial and Noob has a nice case. Put a real date wheel and a real crystal and insert and hands you have a watch that will look fine too me. The rehaut engraving is still not 100% but I don't have bionic eyes. On the wrist it will look just like my real one. As a rule when someone post a single pic or a few very blurry or off pics to see if it is real I guess fake until I get a good pic. The way I think about it is what I said above. If I am going to sell or buy a $10,000 Rolex, I wouldn't even consider those 2 or 3 pics as worthy to make an opinion on. I would want detail pictures and engraving close ups. Man I miss having these discussions! Good too have a home while RWI is down. Thanks @Legend and @Mike on a bike and all the others for letting us come in. I have been a member here and always came over here for my learning of the 4 digit watches. Won a few Raffles! LOL. Good too be back more often. I got a good question. Why did they make the Pepsi a 18K white gold? I brought that Guido GMT book and it doesn't explain it. I love my old Pepsi! Are they going to come out with a coke? That is another nice watch. If noob EVER comes out with a case that can take a 3186 I will buy 2 ASAP and build a Coke and maybe a two tone.

The JF looks a lot like this. I think you are talking about the older Noobs. It could be 100% real. But seriously those 2 or 3 pictures that he sent won't do it. It is fake till proven real. China is coming out with amazing stuff these days. Really good.

Those pics look a little better. At least the rehaut looks better from the one pic. I dont know. Have him open the back and show you the beautiful 3186. Why doesn't he send you a set of good pics? Why all angle crap that looks odd? If I were trying too sale/buy a $9000 watch I would send or require a lot more pics that 2 at really odd angles. My gut is still no it isnt real until he proves it. Good thing is that there is no fake 3186 case out there that I know of. You have some really great watch makers here like Misiekped who makes his own movement rings and can put in a real 3186 in a Noob 2836 GMT case and then all the stock Rolex parts can go onto that case. Have the person that is trying too sale you the watch take pics directly straight then the case in every angle and also the clasp and band. Engraving of the case and the case back off and pictures of the 3186. That would prove that at least he has a real one in his hands. Look at @efthi's and mine. They look very crisp and mine at least is on a galaxy phone. A Real Rolex is an investment. Good luck brother.

Here is my real 116710LN. Agian could be the crappy pic the OP took but there are a few other issues. Never said date wheel. More cyclops. Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

More I look at it the worst it gets. Look at the hand pinions. The GMT hand where it attaches on to the pinion is too big. The seconds hand is also wrong. Looks too me like a ETA. You too brother.

Sorry brother the OP's is fake. The insert is not even close to real. Look at the font. Big give away is how skinny the numbers font are way too skinny. The rehaut engraving not correct. Look @efthi watch. The crystal clear cyclops the crisp engraving on the rehaut and last but not least the nice ceramic insert with the correct size and font. Or it is a really crappy picture.

While what you say is correct with a rolex watch that is made of 904L it isnt the metal that is making it look different, it is the working of the metal and polishing that makes it look that way. 904 and 316 look the same if worked the same. If they take the time to brush and polish and work on finishing that would make a huge difference.

Merry Christmas brother!