manodeoro

Just now, Mattjames84 said:

Found it.. lol

 

Not kidding at all ...

 

February 2017 ...

I did my first attempt to dismantle a movement ... 3804B so not the most simple movement (basically DG2813 + GMT function added)

My initial idea was to reset a screwed keyless works.

First problem was the date lever spring satelised as I removed the DW plate, etc ... and movement staid in parts for almost 2 years.

 

Some weeks ago ...

After months of pratice on Asian, French and Swiss movements, I've decided to have a look at it.

I just cleaned all the parts, got the missing parts from incomplete movements I had collected for free, reassembled everything back in place and lubricated along the way 

Now the movement is ticking and keeping good time ... just waiting for me to give it a dial and case.

3 minutes ago, Mattjames84 said:

Tried that. The movement was a 2836. worked on it for about 3 hours taking it apart and putting it back together about 6 different times.. finally got it to a point where I was able to get the crown in and it would change the date and set the time but wouldn't wind.. at one point I even broke the clutch lever that I replaced with a 2834 I had laying around.. then ofcourse I lost screws cause I don't have a real good place to work on a movement... anyway I got so fed up the things in the garbage and the case is waiting for a new movement..

 

Too bad ... FIRST lesson is "good and clean place = good and clean work" ... I learned that one from direct experience

Keep the link as it gives really good advices aboutu "how to position this or that" ... using that document you could desassemble and reassemble a 28xx keyless works in less than 5 minutes and get perfect results.

Just take note that the movement used in that tuto is a no-date so the combined setting lever jumper has only 2 positions on the setting lever spring (setting + winding).

Have a look at the last pic and you will see how the U-spring should go to left of the yoke return pin ... that could explain why your movement didn't wind after reassembly.

IMPORTANT :

do NOT throw your broken movement away ... kep it aside, gather spare parts along the way ... someday you will repair it 

 

41 minutes ago, Mattjames84 said:

I got a big problem, I was putting on the new dial and hands and screwed the keyless works of the movement up. Then tried to fix it and wasn't successful, so now I'm in need of a 2846 to replace it

 

Problem YES but not big at all as you can fix it yourself with the good informations.

Here you go http://kronometric.org/article/eta/eta_keyless_assy.html

Of course you'll have to first remove the date wheel if your movement have one and you're ready to go.

 

I've never worked on 2846s (only 2836s and 2834s) but I've read somewhere here that some of those have hacking function.

If your movement was hacking (before you screwed the keyless works of course) then take care of placing the hacking lever in the clutch groove before putting everything back.

If you don't remember just have look at the balance side of the movement and check if there is a tiny lever close to the balance wheel ... if not so your movement wasn't hacking andyou can skip that step.

 

Feel free to ask if you need some help

 

EDIT :

BTW ... is your movement a 2836 or 2846 ? cause sometimes you write 36 and sometimes 46

Nevertheless 36 or 46, and A or ETA, the link above wil be usefull to fix your keyless works.

 

One usefull thing your sould do, before putting the setting lever on, is to lubricate a little the hole on the movement plate where the setting lever's pin goes ... doing that way you'll be certain that the pin will come back to place after pushing on it to remove the stem.

 

Another usefull thing you could do is to put some grease on the "squared" part of the stem before putting it back on, then turn it both ways while putting it back, so that the square part of the stem can be aligned with the square hole on the wheel

Beautifully watch !!!
It may be just me but ... doesn't something look sort of strange with the plexi on side views ?

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Yes, Jmb's caseback is definitely too thick but, I suppose, there's nothing J can do about it as this is the one part of the case that cannot be shaved down.

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You CAN shave down a caseback.
I did that on my Daytona and slimmed it down about 2 mm (1.5 at the least).
And redoing the brushed part is easily doable with 320 sandpaper.
The only problem is you will change the profile of the caseback (increase the diameter of the flat part).

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1 hour ago, mzinski said:

Thank you sir! Never did get that Explorer dial to relume...

😉

Na  I'll relume it myself but I have to finish a custom vintage diver for a friend before (yesterday I achieved a domed negative gild dial ... will show that beauty somewhere on the forum).

 

BTW ... the hands you sent me are really great .. I've just had to rework the hour wheel and the cannon pinion a little as the hands are 1.50/ 0.90 and the movement specs are 1.60/1.02.

At first I wanted to enlarge the hand holes but it proved to be easier to sand the hour wheel to 1.50 and the cannon pinion to 0.90.

Of course I took some pics along the work and I'll post everything when the build is finished.

Continuing the lume work - this time it’s a 5513 meters first with a burnt ochre lume repsenting an dark aged tritium. 

(Excuse the dust on the dial)

Better and better M !!!
Congrats

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[mention=49167]Lo'[/mention]
Very nice build. What’s the inspiration/history behind the dial? It’s very unique and I’d love to learn more. 
Also, that’s a 3156 movement, not an ETA2824. Is it gen or clone? 

Hi M ... I would say clone
I'd be happy if I could get one

GEN


CLONE


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On 1/30/2019 at 1:29 PM, hologramet said:

Remember that the BP one is larger than gen and "centers" the dial/movement in the case. You'll need to create a custom small "dial ring" e.g. from a nylon gasket.

Another way is to build a custom dial spacer, same diameter than the BP dial so larger than the new dial.

That's what I did for my A/6538 build ... dial was 26mm and smaller than the inside diameter of the rehaut (26.3mm) and it worked perfectly. 

If you look closely @8:00 on the pic below you can see the tiny gap between the dial and the rehaut ... I've been really happy to achieve that.

 

Got this baby today from Toro, and when im unpacking im notis that the movement is not moving..now im winding and winding and nothing happens. Its dead :/ Do you guys have any tips? Is it totaly dead? just junk or can the movement be fixt?
 
 
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It depends ... which movement is used in that watch ?

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Finding someone who can laserweld/microweld is tough. At least I couldnt find one. I wanted to "convert" a JF 16610 case to a 16800 one, and have the old springbar holes removed. But I couldnt find someone, so I ended up buying an ST case and will have it engraved...

You could have kept the lug-holes and build an early 16800 ...

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One thing to check is the rehaut, make sure it's 90 degrees to the dial and not "woky". Some appear to be so, could just be crystal distortion though:
https://www.watchpatrol.net/listing/574367/
 

I will ask but the seller doesn't even know how to open a watch so ...
BTW ... the rehaut on my A/6538 seems sometimes woky, a proof that crystals can create distortion because I KNOW that my rehaut is 90 degrees (custom made on a professional lathe).

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I actually don’t find it as bad.
Link me up pls.

Hum ... sorry but no
After reading what automatico an Sogeha said about that model and knowing that it's sold about 1/2 the price ... I can't give a link because I'll buy it.

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Here is a picture of one apart so you can see how it is made. 
The poster tells about putting a T19 on it.
 
http://walletfriendlywatchforum.com/read.php?7,601204,601204
 
Tiger watch website:
 
http://www.tiger-concept.com/5513v2-watch.html
 
 

Thanks !!! really informative and helpfully.
It seems that at $90 it's a steak ... about 1/2 the price.
That baby's coming to me

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WSO bezel can be fitted, a mate has done a few

Thanks !!!
Good news, as I already have a spare WSO 5413 bezel assembly

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Hi guys,

I've been thinking about building a 5513 those days as I have a gilt 5513 Serpico Y Laino decal dial that's waiting in my drawer.

I prefer too put time than money in that build so I'm searching for a cheap start case.

I would like to know what you think about Tiger Concept 5513 V2 as I can get one for $90 shipped with a Miyota 8215 inside.

My questions are :

1 - is the bezel on those watches easily removable (even if not Gen soecs) or not ?

2 - which size is the dial opening on those cases

Here are some pics of the watch I'm offered.

The lugs are a little pointy but I can rework them and the CGs too and I can redrill the lugs so that they take 2mm bars.

The worst part is the plexi IMO but I have some waiting in my drawers too.

So please tell me what you think about that watch.

 

 

 

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Maybe just try on some scrap hands first to get a feel for the technique..
 
After you get the commando hands right, I know your A/6538 is screaming for some flat Mercedes hands . For reference I used the JK hour hand and Raffles 6204 minute hand. For the second hand you're on your own.. I'm not aware of a perfect one besides the old HR big ball that isn't really available anymore.

Thanks ... will do that.
Do you work from the upside or downside of the hands ?

About my A/6538 ... YES it needs better hands and thanks for the infos about JK and Raffles (which handset did you order from JK ?).
I first wanted to be certain I could achieve that crazy build (so much work and custom parts ... almost everything) before trying to source a perfect handset.
Now I will upgrade it with an ETA movement (still a 2813 inside) and better hands ... while also enjoying it on my wrist just as it is.


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On 1/14/2019 at 6:28 AM, jimcon11 said:

Thanks guys. Honestly, I think you will find the shaping of the hands very easy. I can barely lume a dial and my attempts to cut lug chamfers have been disastrous. I didn't even use magnification doing this... there's a lot of room for improvement. The JK hour hand has the perfect outer dimensions, it's just too fat everywhere 

 

The hardest thing for me, besides lume, has been getting a deep, even bronze finish on the hand surface. I have a bad habit of working by lamp light and it totally masks the luster of the hands and convinces me they are uniformly the right tone, then in natural light I realize they are half polished and half dull, mottled between brass and almost silver color, and usually way too bright and shiny, overpowering the gilt dial. Most of the gen hands I've seen have a tone even with the chapter ring or are even darker/more tarnished. I found one method that kind of works, using ammonia fumes, but the effect was pretty uneven. Anyone know how to darken and dull the hands without them just going silvery and rusty looking?

 

I added this absurd early-style second hand after noticing a couple gen Tudors with them. It's a bit too long, and I don't think it was ever original, especially for the early military 7922s in the big crown case, but it looks hilarious to me and the little dot way out there helps to emphasize the low beat movement. A luminous second hand is now an ISO standard for dive watches, so I'm told, and it's funny how these early tool watches met all the modern standards but in such a stylized and barely-functional way, i.e. the Rolex way 

 

 

 

 

Wonderfull job @jimcon11 ... I will try your method this week-end on my 6429 Commando hands

I recently found an almost proper handset after searching for one year, right overall dimensions but with a lume plot too thin and too much metal on the sides

So you definitely save me and my handset will be perfect ... supposing I can do the same modd you did without ruining those hands.

i don’t know ...... you say so ?


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Hi guy
Sorry if I'm a little harsh but ... do you ever read advices ?
You keep on buying overpriced (IMHO) parts since last October (so 4 months ago) and it seems you want to keep on that way !!!
Sorry to read that ...

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10 hours ago, JSebWC said:

15000 OP Date






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Hi Jon ...I already told you how much I like that watch, but CONGRATS once again 👍

Nice piano dial ...Singer mod ?

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Again and again and again ... that A/6538 always come back to my wrist and, you know what ?

I LOVE that 

 

 

Never too much wrist-time for that one






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Only chronographs can be Frankensteins IMHO ... other watches lack those BIG pushers

 

1 hour ago, HaydenM said:

For those that would like to drool over some gen pics of a military 6538 in the meantime. 

Great pics !!!

But as I still prefer mine ... because I have it on my wrist ... just now  

 

BTW ... mine has a nice engraved caseback too 

 

On 12/27/2018 at 7:00 PM, Nanuq said:

Yummmmmm, tasty!  Let's see some profile shots of that bad boy.

 

 

Still on my wrist today as I can't get if off 

 

I didn't got any time to take good pics (I'll try next weekend) so I post those.

At the least one can see the custom bezel (fully rotating) with "german silver" upper part, the fixed bars and (barely visible but there it is) tiny gap between the rehaut and the dial.

 

 

I love that matte browny dial




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