manodeoro

Great job my friend !!!
This morning I'll lume my A/6538 ... unless I send it to you

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Thank you for your help with this.. pics below. 
 
Note, I have since flattened out the ring and not there is less up/down play.. but im still getting left/right play of around 30 seconds. The reason I think is the gap in the teeth and the lever..as per my attached drawing.
 
There must be a fix for this? 

I think you're problem is almost solved.
You just have to bend the click spring a little (just a little !!!).
I'm on breakfast now but I'll post a sketch as soon as I can.

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Cheers to the Xmas season

 

WOW !!!

Congratulations for that really nice catch and congrats again for putting a leather on ... so it's still shinny but a little more under the radar.

Some more pics of that beauty please

 

I love those President cases and their specific design between the lugs.

I'm still hesitating between "yellow gold + yellow Stella dial" and "white gold + green Stella dial".

 

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Would you some some pics of your watch ... bezel and tension ring apart ?

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I think maybe I ended up with the older version JF (V2). He told me the 15 watch was the latest. I'm pleased regardless. 
 
The bezel on the 16610 is very sloppy and loose, is there anything I can do to tighten it? 

Nice watches and ... 5 digits rules
If your bezel is loose you just pop it off using a watch knife (protect your watch before - there is topics here and on you tube) then you take the tension spring (flat stainless steel ring) that sits on the retaining ring and bend it a little more than it already is, put it back on the retaining ring and clip the bezel back.
If after that your bezel is still loose bend the tension spring a little more.
If the bezel is stuck up just unbend the tension spring a little ... etc

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On 12/16/2018 at 12:26 AM, jimcon11 said:

I used Krylon Crystal Clear and sprayed the dial sitting directly on a cold metal table at close to 0°C and left it outside. I think this result should be reproducible, although it wasn't desired in my case.

Thanks ... I will try to proceed like this and see what I get.

My first decal dial. On its third coat of gloss, I decided to let the dial dry on a cold metal table.. this was the result! For anyone wishing to produce a spider dial, now you know how
 

Lucky guy !!!
I've tried that truck for my Fat-Lady GMT II dial and it didn't worked.
Possibly my varnish is too good quality.
I will try again and ... fingers crossed.

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topic is here : https://rwg.cc/topic/192833-5500-air-king-precision-with-patina-dial-circa-1975/

I have a 15000 case that takes a 3035 and the eta 2836 is too thick to fit. You need to use a 2824 . I'm 100% sure. I read the same info as posted here and the 2836 will not fit in a rolex 3035 case.
The other option is to get a 15200 case and use the yuki 3135 movement. No issues with Dwo and the yuki 3135 will take a gen dail.
Did you remake this dail? I thought I saw it somewhere. If so can you post the link

I actually MADE it starting from a blanked dial, made a "soleillé" and so on.
I have a topic here about that watch.

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Nice project ... one I would add to my Air-King collection in the future

 

My 5500 says hello

 

Thank you!  Yes I am very pleased with the results...It is a shame about the keyless.    
I watched this video where he fixes the keyless on an eta movement from the back....he doesn't even pull it out of the case.     Undo 3-4 screws and a third hand and I think I should have it back in action.   Clearly he makes it look easy!  As long as I dont lose any of the bits   I should be able to manage to get the yoke back onto the sliding pinion and bob's your uncle! 
 
 

I tried "both ways" and I found it easier to do do from the dial side.
Plus you can put some grease where needed on the keyless works so that it works smoothly.
But I'll have a look at this video nevertheless

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[mention=32]Nanuq[/mention]
Haven't been on RWG since a few days so I just stumble upon your post this morning.
Hope everything is OK now for your family and friends.
I lived an earthquake years ago with my wife and sons and wow !!! years later one consider that an "experience" or "adventure" but at the moment it's really frightening.
Wish you the best buddy

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@Nanuq ... THIS is apnea 

 

Hey ... admins 

I would like to edit that topic to upload the pics again, but I cant find the EDIT button

Okay don't laugh... I know this only bears the vaguest resemblance to a real Apnea, but I like it.  
 

 

As long as you don't pretend being Jacques Mayol ... nobody will laugh

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7 hours ago, madasboot said:

Thank you so much manodeoro...

this was a slow process build taking almost 11 years from start to strap with lots of intermediate mods and stories.

It was serviced for the last time in 2011 and still keeps accurate time.

 

 in fact these are big watches altough by design (under the correct specs) they are quite comfortable over the wrist.

at least they do not slide to the side as most of the smaller watches.

saludos!

That's what I love the most about watches, the process and the building, do that's why I really appreciated your thread.

11 years ... just wow !!!

Though I'm far from being a young guy I'm here just since late 2016 ... plus I must admit that 11 years ago I would have said "reps ... not for me ever".

But the building process, the research, sometimes the engineering ... I love that so much that I don't think I could ever stop now.

I'm even considering printing my own dials.

Not decal printing as I already did some, I mean silk printing or even pad printing ... the real way.  

Congratulations ... your watches are great so keep them and wear them ... hope you won't mind if I try to "rep your reps" 😉

 

You're welcome
I'm not exactly a Pam guy because of my skinny wrists but ... great thread, great work and really great watches

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custom made in germany. Case material is staybrite as per original specs

Game ... Over The Top !!!

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That's right. He uses only gen dial plates, my understanding is it's a way to prevent proliferation of dials made using the genuine factory process. Or I can be misremembering conversations I had more than a few years ago... don't take that to the bank but it feels like an accurate memory.

Just wondering ... did Ivan dials really sell $1K plus around 2012/13 or is it "legend" ?

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Just subscribed to that thread so that I CANNOT forget to help next days.

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I really want to buy some of his movement holders and movements, does anyone know how to get in contact with him

yup long gone. 

if you need a movement ring for a TC case, then i think it's worth trying those helenarou 2824-2 to 1570 movement ring (approx $15 USD) - they seem to fit TC cases well (from the last time i tried, but ymmv)

If somebody could provide all the exact dimensions (inside diam, outside dial, thickness, chamfer dimension and position, etc ...) it's still possible the make some on a lathe.

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1 hour ago, Jovi75 said:

Manodeoro I’ve sent a private message to TDS is it the right way to contact him ?


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 I don't know with the TDs here ... to those I work with I send them emails

6 hours ago, manodeoro said:

 

 

Dead end holes should be filled with some silver solder or "metal" 2 compnents glue.
When cooled/dried just file/sand the excess and that's all.
I do that every time I drill lugs on a case so that there's no risk of having a springbar stucked in place.

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Sorry but I can't find how to edit my post so I quote myself 

 

Here is a close pic of a lug of my 5500 Air-King where one can easily see how the dead-end hole has been filled.

Hence no more "stucked up spring bar" problem.

 

9 minutes ago, Jovi75 said:

I love you


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***cough*** please cool that down buddy  ***cough*** 

I'm an old  man with a white beard you know ?... not a hot chick with fishnet stockings