manodeoro

Great watch and great build !!!
Congratulations
If you dont mind I'd like to know how much Everest Watches charged for the relume (which looks quite perfect IMHO).

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I don't believe the 3135 appeared until the 16610. The 3035 still resides in the 168000, to my knowledge. 
 
All youd have have to do to check is change the date. If it goes clockwise, it's a 3135. Counterclockwise, it's a 3035. 

I don't believe the 3135 appeared until the 16610. The 3035 still resides in the 168000, to my knowledge. 
 
All youd have have to do to check is change the date. If it goes clockwise, it's a 3135. Counterclockwise, it's a 3035. 

Apart from the 904L vs 316L and the ref number on the case @6 ... How can one distinguish a 168000 from a 16800 ?
[mention=78113]Pombok[/mention]
Could your friend check the ref number @6 ?.. 16800 or 168000 ?

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The 16610LV case is all wrong for a 16800. I don't need to compare the JF or look at pics. The only case that has the correct dimensions was the EARLY EARLY ST 3035 case, Phong or gen for obvious reasons. 
 
Dial wise, it's matte or gtfo if you ask me. There's no use in doing a 16800 build with a gloss dial. Might as well just get a TC, drill the holes and throw in a tritium dial and call it a 16610LN. 
 
 
Also, the gen in OPs pics should be a 168000 and not a 16800.

I searched everywhere, I finally decided to buy it. It's not an expensive book like Mondani's.

Does somebody have the "Vintage Rolex Sport Models" book in pdf ?

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My 2 cents about DIALS ...

It all depends on "how old" you want your 16800 to be :

- 16800 production years are about 1979/1888.

- "early" 16800s (1979/1984) came with a matte dial with paint/lume indexes (3 sorts of matte dials : MARK I / MARK II / MARK III)

- "late" 16800s (1984/1988) came with a glossy dial with circled indexes (white gold circled).

- glossy dials are supposed to be used only since 1985 but the "Comex" 16800s (1984) came with glossy dials.

So, depending one the period you want your 16800 to be, and the money you want to put on your build you may have to :

- modd your 16610 dial to a 16800 glossy dial (that's what I did)

- modd your 16610 dial to a 16800 matte dial

- swap for an aftermarket dial (only matte available I think)

- swap for a gen dial (matte and/or glossy ... rare and $$$$$$)

For my "year 1984" 16800 Comex 16800 I just kept the 16610 dial and modd it :

- popped the indexes off

- sanded the dial to get it completely blank

- chamfered the date window

- designed a 16800 dial with Illustrator (with "COMEX" branding and "SWISS-T<25" text)

- printed the design on white decal paper

- placed on the blank dial

- sprayed 5 coats of glossy varnish

- put the indexes back on

I really think I could have done better but ... once again ... that was my very first complete build and a 150$ project altogether

2 hours ago, Sogeha said:

I knew about the change from double to triple seal on the crown. I figured on a build that is not a big problem as it can be changed. Rehaut I didn't know about. A Phong case is $1400, so makes it a much more serious project. I guess it's either live with the rehaut depth or see if it is possible to change it. 

2 hours ago, Pombok said:

Standby for photos, I'll start a new thread and tag you.


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@Pombok ... It would be nice if you can tag me too cause I'm really interested in a 16800 build thread.

My first 16800 build was a VERY low budget cause it was my first complete attempt to build a watch :

- first time I modded a complete dial with circled indexes

- first time I drilled and chamfered lugs

- first time I reworked a case

- first time I sanded a rehaut

- first time I engraved a caseback

- so many first times ...

I just bought a BP11610 and 2mm bars and did all the modds myself so I kept the project under 150 $.

At the end I know the watch has many flaws but I'm still really happy with the result.

Now that I have improved my skills a little I'd like to build a better one, probably starting with a JF16610LN.

Here are some more pics of my 150 $ build

Thanks, it´s the same one, here on a strap

16800 Comex / BP16610
YES ... 16610 has a slightly deeper rehault and a thicker crown.



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Trying out my newest audition, what do you guys think of my (retro/vintage) New York subway coin cufflinks?

36mm automatic vintage from 1984

Not-a-Rolex, but vintage

 

I heard about that, but haven't seen the pictures yet. I haven't had time to go search. I want one as the basis for a 16800, so an engraved rehaut won't work for me.

I actually had lunch with a guy today who has a gen 16800 and we compared the JF. It's remarkably good.


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IMO the JF 16610LV is the best sub rep you can buy at the moment, we've just had a very very long thread discussing whether the JF is better than the TC V7x, the JF has a better movement and better bracelet, the other details have been subject to debate, but there is no doubting the JF is an incredible watch for $400 out of the box.

By the way the TC V7x cannot be bought right now, as TC is on hiatus.

The JF....






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Nice handwind 34mm



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It's custom made

"...gen bezel should be pretty damned difficult to dislodge so the story of losing it during a round of golf seemed pretty tenuous."
 
Genuine submariner 55xx, 1680, 16610, GMT etc of the same era have bezels that are fairly easy to knock off.  I have pulled a few off by hand...just push down hard toward the center on one side and pry the other side up with fingers.  Gold bezels are even easier to remove and lose. 
 
A bump against a door frame or reaching into a tight pocket will often knock a bezel ring off.  Imho they are made this way so the gomers at their repair shops can r/r them easily...and sell more bezels.  Older models, 6538 etc had spring wire bezels and they stayed in place but many were bent or broken by careless removal.
 
As for replicas with spring wire bezels...try to r/r the bezel on an F520117 noobmariner.  If you do not know 'the trick' you will bend it. 

Could you confirm if the chrono works or not and if the pushers are well aligned or not (to high or to low) ?

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Wonderfull !!!
But I would say "ADVANCED beginner" cause one need some skills and experience to make a build like this one.

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2 hours ago, alligoat said:

 

That is a page out of "Vintage Rolex Sport Models" by Martin Skeet and Nick Urul. It's copyright 2005 and although it has some mistakes in it, it's a pretty good reference covering the period from the early 50s thru around 1980.

Thanks.

I'll first try to find a pdf file but if I cant I'll probably order it.

Nice one! I like the current crystal personally. It's asking for a CG shave and an Ofrei pearl
 
BTW, whats going on with the hands? Looks to be a different set between the above pics and the wrist pic

 
Mine ended up with a T-39 from GS

On 17/04/2017 at 10:55 PM, alligoat said:

That case looks similar to the old noobmariner where the crystal sits inside and the bezel snaps over the outside ring of the case. Non-genuine construction!

You could use a better crown and a better pearl in the bezel insert. Price is ok but you didn't get a steal.

It looks very similar to the BP 16610 I used for my 16800 Comex build.

I paid 124$ only but it's definitely not genuine construction , though very lookalike IMHO (will show that 16800 soon).

It's been a real PITA to drill the lugs and rework the case so for my next build I'll probably use the 16610 LN from JF ... if it proves to be more genuine construction and accept Gen parts.

Wonderfull job !
I love those chamfers

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