klocklind1

Great watch, movement shot?

Movementshot here it comes:

Very nice! I like the gen pearl and the WM9 dial. Enjoy your new watch.

Thanks alligot!

This insert is VERY close to the genuine I think and I managed to mount the geniune pearl in a good way!

I like the LV dial more than the standard sub ( I have the V3 sub also but I like this one more!) because of the maxidial and hands!

Nice! Wear it in health! The dial from PT should have flat "S", that looks like a noob dial to me.

No that IS a WM9 LV dial that is better than the noob

Hi Pam lovers!

Here is my latest pam 177L with some mods:

It has one of thoose SWISS eta with swanneck that is long gone ( it is one of the DSN movements from 2006 !)

It has the ( more correct noob 111J dial and I have used the backplate from another sandwichdial that was superlumed by vacclume.

The lume is not as THICK as the 177L lume so it looks more genuine looking ( makes the DEEPTH of the numbers look better!)

The 177L lumecolor in DAYLIGHT is to Yellow so I wanted a more genuine looking lume color!

Yes the lume is "almost" as the genuine in the DARK BUT in daylight both the 219L and the 177L has to much of a Yellow tone

And I think the black color on the dial is too greyish compared to my genuine pam 111M

BUT it has the correct COLOR of the fonts as the genuine

But all in all it certenly IS a superreplica and the best titanium pam made to date

Here is the pictures of it!

The first picture is the 177L dial and the other one is my customdial

Hi all!

Just wanteed to show my latest sub!

It is the latest WM9/TW sub from PT ( Precious time!)

It is the version WITHOUT the engraved rehaut ( YES he could get some of this version!)

It has a LV dial/hands and has a genuine insert ( no just kidding as it only the pearl that IS genuine, but I like the result very much!)

The crystal is the "new" one that is THE closest to genuine looking crystel next to a genuine. It has rounded edges and a little more magnifying that is clooser to the genine and the rolexcrown is VERY faint and VERY nicely etched and I like it VERY much.

I have not filed the CG but it does not bother me but will probably change to a genuine crown !

The datefont IS the same on this one as WM9 and is VERY accurate ( the "7" has the small "edges" at the ends !)

All in all I am VERY pleased with this sub.

And PT is a joy to buy from

Now to the pictures ( warning BIG files:

BK is a GREAT man to buy the best subs from I bought both the WM9 LV and the V3 sub and could not be more happy with them

Regarding the crystal it SURE looks better than even the Clark crystal

Wear it well

You know where to get it

YES Concepta can make Your dream come true

Hi all

Is there anyone that has a pam 219L dial to sell ?

Dear members,

two weeks ago I received my holy grail watch. Mickey Padge sold me his beloved a well treasured BK Yachtmaster. needless to say, that the communication and transaction were smooth, the watch arrived in best condition after 4 days (!!!) inside EU.

Although it was worn, I could not detect any signs of wear, since Mickey perfectly refurbished and polished the YM. It was originally the WM9, with all BK mods performed and a gen date disc installed. The watch is waterproof to 5 atm, but it will only see water when I clean her....

No pictorial, no great writeup, as promised just some pics how a pre-owned watch could look like if the owner takes some care.

Thanks again to Mickey , and to you guys for looking!

J

Mickey is a true gentlemen for sure

I have used my BK YM in a several Rolex AD shops and I am sure they could not see that my YM was a replica

Sometimes the metal ring round the indexes can be a little to thick but most of the dials have the right thickness!!!

This one looks GREAT

Wear it well

I have one just sitting here..considering if i should go superfranken with gen dial and gen crystal (already have a gen crown/tube installed)

Somehow i am just not feeling it...but it´s a super rep for sure! I would say THE best out of the box!

Enjoy it J!

J / I think that a genuine crystal is more imortant on a sub and a genuine dial would be looking REALLY nice

Hi all,

when I noticed the new PAM005 K series offered by our dealers I almost placed my order. But then I saw that the gen 005K comes with a plain lever whereas that new 005K rep has got a roller ball? So what is correct? Do any genuine K series with roller ball exist? AFAIK the L series comes with a roller ball?

On the genuine pam the roller ( on the CG!) is almost invisible as it is SOOOOOOOOO nicely done

Bump

If the coilspring IS tangeld then it ca be worth try this when the movement is NOT running:

You look at the coilspring and see if it looks like it is "overlapping" somewhere.

If it looks like that then try to separate the coilspring very carefully with a very small screwdriver or sharp toothpick so there is a little "space between the all of the "turns" of the coilspring.

I have also read that You can tap the case a couple of times and see if the coilspring turns freely!

I had a pam 177L that I was just going to send back when I tryed both of the above metods and suddenly when I winded the moement it started to work as it should!

Good luck and use a loupe when You work with the coilspring!

Have a good look at the balance spring there maybe two coils touching. Then have a search there are numerous posts about a possible solution.

Andy I think I have that problem on my brand new pam177L and was going to send it back to the dealer but it looks very nice so if there is a solution to fix it easy I would love to find that thread!

I have already tried to adjust the balancearms as cloose as possible to make it go slower but it still is way to fast!

Have you tried the stem mod?

What do You mean by that?

BTW what did You use to increase the distance to the case ?

Looks nice

But the CG on this pam has a roller cam-arm so when I tried with an extra gasket the arm was pressing VERY hard on the tube( BUT the distance to the case did increase!) and I think that the higher pressure will eventually make the worn and wobbly

The T:s T48 titanium crown is better than this one but is not springloaded for CG

@Klocklind1: Are you sure that your v1 from PT will not have the engraved rehaut? Because as far as i know the non engraved rehaut is not available any more.

Yes I am 100 % sure as I already got the pictures of the actual watch I will get

It looks exactly like the sub supreme he has on his website but without the engraved rehaut, and comes with the nice decorated SWISS eta 2836-2 ( not a asian clone eta!)

But he only got 10 watches totally without the engraved rehaut

But pm him if we can get more of them

It is a VERY nice sub

Nice sub You there !

I will get my WM9 V1 with the flat S dial( without engraved rehaut!) next week from PT.

It sure is one of the best subs made

great review !

thanks a lot !

after playing a few days with both watches here are my 2cents :

i think overall the 111j is the better watch - meaning in better quality

my 111j seems to be a different batch - is has nice AR on the xtal and strong lume on the hands.

the dial lume is okay - but the gen has also not super duper lume.

but the little too thin CG bothers me a bit

my 177 has shitty lugbars it was a pain to get them out - even more to get them in again

i like the weight - older ti-Pam where just too light - this one is okay

the lume is brighter than the gen

overall these new rep set the standard - only reason to get the gen if you want to join some Paneristi meetings

cheers,

Frank

Regarding the lug screws, on my 177L the lug screws is absolutely the best I have had ( including the new 219L! ) so fine threads

And the CG pin is absolutely flat on mine as well!

So You must have got a case with a little more bad threads

Be VERY careful when screwing in the screws as the titanium ( used in watch-cases!) is softer than the steel ones!

But it a gamling with replicas that how it is!

Some have got VERY nice CDG engraving on the bridges on the movement on the 111J and some have got the "standard" engraving

BUT You got a nice sample of Your 111J

Does anyone have any intel on this?

I heard talk that an ULTIMATE version was on it's way.

Is it coming soon?

I heard that as the noobfactory came out first with a "Ultimate" 111 the Hublot factory "changed its mind and made the 219L instead!!!!!

Seems the supply of the new 177L titanium is no longer available. I ordered one from Trusty but it's a no go until more are made. As the lefty destro has always intrigued me, I got the 219 instead from the same

source, or so it seems. Any happy 219 owners out there? The simplicity of the base Pam is elegant, and this will be my first.

It is at least as good as the 177L so I am sure will be happy with also

I shouldnt of snapped at you mate, apologies.

I agree with what you said.... though my quoted post did say about the flaws on the rest of the movement and I even said my logic was daft

No problem Pete!

I got my 219L yesterday and got it in FOUR days from Tony

It certenly IS a VERY nice pam

Funny that ..................because I cant understand why people like yourself make a post with other post quotes then make comments without actually reading the post they are quoting..!!!

Or maybe you do just not understand period.

Sorry I did not ment to make anyone to feel bad

How about this one ?

http://www.steinhartwatches.de/index.php?id=67&artnr=308&Sel_ID=20&Sel_Cat_ID=1#308

love my new 177L...

but - noticed one of the blue movement screws was almost completely out of the movement...so i opened up the caseback to screw it back down...i always start with my sticky ball and then move to caseback openers...well - the sticky ball wouldn't do it...which surprised me...i was able to get it off with one of my caseback tools (unfortunately i do not have a panerai caseback tool - just the claw type)...but it sure took a lot of torque and you could feel it was tight...

sooooo...since the threads are slightly out of whack, tightening it is a bear...is there a simple'ish fix to screwing it back down...the titanium is hard, so i don't think a lot of torque is going to do it...and right now, i seem to always get it started askew...re-threading is out...is there a graphite or other lubricate that might help the threads?...something that obviously wouldn't hurt the movement?...

thanks...R

Hi R

My 177L caseback was almost impossible to take of but tried a litte ( just a little on a needle) anti-rustoil and I managed to get it unscrewed

But when I had adust the movement ( +4 sec/24H !) which I did a lot of times as I do not have timing machine, so because of that I had to open and close the caseback several times and now it is quite easy to open/close the caseback

But I think that silicon grease can help on the threads be caseful not to use oil as it can get i to the movement