klocklind1

Hi all DLC lovers!

The new pam026K looks VERY nice indeed but I have a question regaring how restitent the DLC-coating is to get scratches on it?

Has the replica as hard surface as the genuine?

And if You get a scratch it would be very visible because of the steal under the surface

You can not really just polish/sand a DLC case can You?

Please let me know because I want to buy one

Try to press it out with the crystal press. If the crystal is jammed I guess you will rather break it than get it in properly if you press too much...

Thanks for the advice

I have a crystalpress but the watch has more flaws so I might send it back to the dealer.

And maybe the gasket got damages when pressed in the wrong way

Just press it out from the back but it helps to have a crystal press too get it back in flat, and check the retaining gasket if it has been pressed in at an angle then the gasket could be deformed

Thanks Andy

But I have tried with my thumbs ( and I think I have quite strong hands/fingers ) BUT I can NOT get the crystal out of the case!

Is it woth trying to press it into the right place ( I have a crystal press !) as it is now or will the crystal break instead?

I am thinking of sending it back but I have not so nice experience of that

Personaly mate I would remove and resit the crystal as I would want to be sure about the seating of the compression gasket in the bezel..

To remoove the crystal, is it just to press it out from the back or ?

Personaly mate I would remove and resit the crystal as I would want to be sure about the seating of the compression gasket in the bezel..

Thanks Pete !

I think I will just do that

The brooklyn bridge caseback IS very nice

Hi all!

I just got my new pam318L ( very nice pam!) but the crystal is not fitted properly

So I do not want to send it back.

The crystal is sticking up a lot more at one side.

So what sha I do?

Is it best to remove the crystal and press it again or can I just press the crystal as it is and hope it will be correct seated ?

yeah solid midlinks

but i thought v1s had the engraving on the rehault.

can anyone identify usin the serial number? or are they all the same?

thanks.

Hi there!

I am almost 100 % sure it IS a V1 WM9 ( TW ) because the serialnumber looks like it is from the WM9 batch with individual numbers on them

And I think it comes from PT precious time as he is one of the few that uses this decorated swiss 2836-2 movement

And last I just bought my second one of thoose from PT with his latest batch ( januari 2011 ) that is without engraved rehaut and the right datefont and the new crystal with most correct crystal and perfect magnification on the lope!) .

It has the Z "S" in submariner

It is a VERY nice sub with the BEST endlinks out there and is a keeper for sure

Sounds like it would be easier to use the right size movement???

Yes and the 2836-2 ( right size!) is better than the smaller 2678-2

Also, I believe sandwich dials tend to have more lume on them, making them glow brighter and longer than sausage dials.

Ny genuine 111M does not glow as bright as my 177L with a backplate lumed by vacclume.

But on the genuine sandwich-dials the lume is recessed into the backplate not ON TOP of the dial so the lume is more close to the topplate and glows more!!!

I did find very nice case for my 040B project, check this out

That is one of my favorite watches

Then buy an individual ti caseback from jakob for it and You have a superreplika

Which dealer do you recommand for getting the 005?

Who serves the best service and QC? I want to order one so badly.

I would buy it from Tony ( asian7750.com ) as he has great service and is fast!

And he is one of the cheapest also at 198 $

BUT You have to ask for QC-pictures from him!

I got my 005 today together with a pam177L that he had in stock when the other dealers did not have any in stock

Great strap indeed, I have the 26mm version on my Fiddy. My only beef with it (isn't there ever one with me? LOL!) is that the top is coated with polyurethane, so while great water resistance and protection it won't age as straps that were tanned using more traditional techniques.

BTW, his Marino straps are made in Germany by Rios-1931, so quality is guaranteed.

For the price there's hardly anything like that on the market these days.

Check up the straps from Steinhart watches as they also come from the Rios factory

Some may think it looks better polished than the "matte" finish but remember that You probably NEVER will be able to make look like it was before this polishing

But it certenly was brave of You to try this

Thanks for posting it!

Wear it well

Apart from the quality of the materials, for day/datewheel change it should pretty much the same...

if you follow that tutorial and do it carefully, you wont have any problems...

OK thanks Hugo!

I think that will not be a problem then, BUT to press the genuine hands on the genuine movement can be tricky, I think as the genuine hands fits quite hard on the genuine movement I have heard!

Sometimes You have to use a brotch to make the holes in the hands a little bigger !

This is for the A7750

Is there any difference on the SWISS eta 7750 ?

This is for the A7750

Thanks a LOT for that GREAT info

Hi there!

Have been looking for some imformation regarding how to change the day/datewheel on an swiss eta 7750 but with no luck

And what I shall think of when doing it !

Can someone please help me find some imformation about it

Did you use a caseback tool or did you find some other house hold item that did the job?

I ALWAYS use a rubberball and that has always worked for me

And You will NEVER scratch the caseback

And last always use some silicon graese on the o-ring to make it more waterproof!

I thought the WM9 dial had the flat "S"

WM9 makes both dials but the flat "S" dial is not superlumed and had not as good ( crisp and sharp !) printing as the WM9 superlumed LV and sub dial.

Can you tell the price?

269£ shipped

No its not the same watch...

It IS the same but without the engraved rehaut.

But I put an other dial on it, an LV dial

OK, I agree, that does look like the text on my 111J! When have they changed the colour? Can anyone confirm the gen J-series is like that, too?

The older series had almost white printing, it would be interesting to know when that has changed.

I do not know when they changed but sometimes the dialprint color is more white ?

Look at the 177L on Joshuas slideshow comparing the genuine against the rep 177L and the text looks more white than yellow but most of the genuine pam 177 I have seen has yellowish color on the text!

But the color can be soooo dificult judge by looking on photos as the white balance is most of the time set incorrect

Hmm, I'm really beginning to wonder about different versions of the gen as well. I've seen a gen (I think it was a K-series) recently and the dial print was almost white. I have a gen 112 G-series and the dial text is the same colour, almost white, little creamy. Pics of the gens I've seen have the same colour as well, see pic above. I owned a LH 111 once and the text colour was spot on with my gen 112.

Now the colour of my 111J is way too yellowish/greenish in comparison...

Can you take pics of your gen and the 111J next to it? That would be really interesting!

Here is a pcture of my genuine 111 M series 2010 !

Hmm, I don't think the dial text colour is spot on... in fact it's quite off. The gen is an off-white/cream colour while my 111J is ivory with a tad of green/yellow in it as well. Lume colour is totally off, too - way too greenish.

I start to wonder if there are different batches out there - judging from the pics I've seen differences in text colour and lume colour.

I already had my mine relumed.

Here's a gen pic of a J-series:

The text color IS almost the same as the genuine ( just bought a 111M series and I can say that the textcolor IS almost exactly the same as the genuine! )

The lumecolor as the 177L is to Yellowish in daylight ( and not as white as the genuine!) so I have a mix on my 177L with a 111J dial with a vacclumed backplate ( with not as thick lume to make it look more deep at the indexes!) with the more correct lumecolor, see my post regarding my new 177L!

BUT the worst thing is that both the 177L and the 111J and the 219L has a dialcolor that is not as black in the color as the genuine that is clearly more black

But otherwise they all are VERY nice watches BUT if You whnt it to be perfect You have to use a GENUINE dial!

pics are way to big!

On some computers the pictures RESIZE automatically but sometimes not