hard to say from the pic. If it does really move, it look real. If not, it's the first time I see a rep like that. Usually they simply show the balance wheel as a fake tourbillon, but this look like a real one. (look doesn't mean real)
I'm in for 2. #1 and #87
but they don't show in my account.
Total number of tickets bought: 0
Tickets bought for this lottery: 0
But I have the paypal confirmation...
Frank Muller would never make a watch with the balance wheel showed like that. It's a fake tourbillon and it's very easy to spot a REAL tourbillon. It's also a fake chrono (showing date instead of working chrono) Can't scream more fake than this.
This one is a cheap Asian copy that you can find on watchsilix for less than $70.
Pearl look much better on this pic.
It's much better than my 2824 SMP. Everything look quite good on this rep. Just have to realign the insert as before..
This is a good idea. Paying $12 (or make it round at $15) by year wouldn't hurt most of us.
I'm not against the idea of a cheap by month fees. I already give $20 by year to this forum (donation, not upgrading my account) so it would change anything.
I think most of us are ready to help, we are just a bit lazy.
It's a problem having to give a small shake to "start" the watch after winding ? All mine are doing this. even my SMP that The Zigmeister serviced.
Or simply pulling the crown and push it back usually start the movement.
Excellent post The Zigmeister. It's always a pleasure to read those king of review.
Since your review of the Daytona 7750 movement, I was waiting for your "updated" through about the new 7750 in normal 6-9-12 or 3-6-9. Do you think it's still as good as ETA ? also a question I was wondering for a while, are most of the part swappable with ETA or you have to source parts from Asian watches.
Thanks for all your great info, maybe it will reassure me to finally buy one of the 7750 watches.
Actually, the Quartz version have good marking.
It use the 60 minutes chrono Miyota OS20 movement, with second at 6, minutes at 9 and 24 hours at 3. All sub dial are correctly marked.
It's not accurate vs the gen, but at least you don't have ticking second on a sub-dial with 24 marking or 1/10th like some quartz rep.
Chrono is working, but the sub dials are wrong. It does have a sweeping second chrono hand (movement is Swiss ISA Quartz, 1/5 second movement.)
I also wish I could find a Quartz 1/10th movement.. Miyota have one, but it's quite pricey and I don't think it worth it. (and I'm not sure dials spacing is compatible)
Well it was more expensive than what I wanted, but I finally have a nice looking watch.
The bracelet was bad, so I ordered a Bob Strap (great guy and great product)
The Bezel was also bad. A seller on Ioffer sent me a new one with "clicking mechanism" for $15 shipped. The mechanism wouldn't fit the case so I had to glue the bezel Good thing is the pearl and the overall finish is much better on this one.
I also had to "repair" the movement even if it's Quartz. A small screw holding the battery in place was loose and the chrono was acting strange. Very simple fix once you see it..
Anyway, after a while and some extra money:
The finish between the lug aren't very good (it was supposed to be a metal bracelet, so the rep maker didn't put much attention there)
Let me know what you think.
Duplicate layer (in case of error)
Add a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer. (the white/black icon in the mask window, then Select Hue/Saturation)
In the Saturation setting, put saturation to 0. You will have a back and white image here.
Now notice in the Mask window, you have a layer with your Saturation setting. You will have a white square just before the name of the layer. This is a Fusion mask.
Click on the white square of the adjustment layer. (fusion mask) and use your pencil to draw in black where you want the color to show. If you make mistake, paint in white to remove the color.
It's that simple.