DemonSlayer

I don't think A7750 parts are available from anywhere. You might get lucky with the ETA 7750 in that it will fit, but its 50/50. From what I recall, according to The Zigmeister these parts won't fit. Have a read of his in-depth articles/reviews regarding this. Apart from the ETA route, you have 2 alternatives from what I can see, either track down a donor A7750 movement from a member on the boards, or you will have to purchase a brand new movement from a dealer (I've read that most can get one) and use it as a donor movement.

A nice pair you got there I think you made the right choice going for the white batons dial over the black numerals dial, but my favourite out of these two is the black batons dial This watch would be undeniably too massive for my wrists (I think even the Skyland might bee too big), however I can appreciate them for the nice watches they are. A wicked box too! Only space for 3 and its looking to be another SA too?? Damn, you're officially SA crazy

Glad to hear the great work done by Domenico. I sent him an email today regarding work for a UPO, I hope that he understood it, I think possibly the message might be too confusing I hope I can have him work on my watch, I'm looking forward to seeing the quality of his workmanship.

BT wearing a strap!! Never thought I'd see the day Congrats on the purchase, I love these Ebels.

Whats the AR like on this R? Is it better than the UPO stock AR?

I don't blame you BT. I had practically forgotten about this watch, but looking at these stunning pics is making me how nice it would be to have one also Damn Lani, you really need to tone down on these pics you take, they're not good for my bank balance!

Ah sorry, my bad I didn't read the chrono part. In any case I know exactly what you mean, its a stunning watch in the flesh.

I thought it would be the Pepsi By-Tor

Lol Rolexman, yeah I would say that polishing is now one of my hobbies I think its because I love seeing the before and after restoration pictures on gen websites, and I want to learn to be able to do that with my own watches + I enjoy it Krpster, if you need any help with compounds let me know. It can be very confusing because there's many companies out there selling compounds, and theres many compounds. Theres other compounds apart from the green, blue and pink which can be used to polish steel, but I just stuck with the guide from the UK supplier and it worked. Not all compounds out there are good quality. The ones I bought are very well priced and they seem very good quality. I had to do a lot of reading to learn which compounds I really need, and about polishing in general ie. steps involved etc. I'll start working on the guide once I get a break from studying (damn exams!)

Excellent job. I've always wanted to do a swap including the datewheel. BTW, theres nothing "economy" about gluing the datewheel overlay, its a very smart way with lowered risk to get the date perfect

A little update; I had a quick go at polishing the underside of the hinge on the latest Oyster bracelet clasp, this is a highly mirrored finish, but it has hairline marks all over it, it picks these up very easily... The results were unlike anything I've experienced before. I believe the key to achieving a highly mirrored finish is definitely in the compounds and the wheels used. Of course skill comes into it, but when using a dremel tool to do the polishing, theres a lot of room for practice I purchased all my wheels and compounds from a UK vendor, who sells high quality polishing products/acessories and is apparantly one of the largest UK dealers in these products, and the items are well priced I think, more on that later.. The steps: As there wasn't any deep marks on this area, I skipped stage 1 (grey compound- a cutting compound). I then proceeded onto stage 2 with green compound (known to some as green rouge) with its suitable wheel. This has medium cut and medium gloss. This alone produced results much better than any of the Mothers mag, brasso, cape cod polishes I've tried, even when those were used with a dremel, they still produced small hairline marks which are visible in strong light. I then wiped off, what little black residue there was with a soft cloth, then proceeded to stage 3, and attached another wheel and used blue compound. This compound has less cut and more gloss than green. This got me very close to flawless mirror finish. I could have left it here and been happy with the results. I then wiped off any black residue (very little) and then proceeded onto the final stage. I attached the appropriate wheel and used pink compound. This compound is used purely for finishing, it has very little cut, and very high gloss. When finished, I believe the end result was a finish equal to that of factory mirror finish. A few things I noticed/comments: -I don't know exactly how long I should be polishing for with each compound (I'm still at very beginner level when it comes to polishing). I went by what results I could see after finishing polishing with a particular compound. -When I touched the rouge for about a second, not much would coat the wheel. I'm not sure if I should be touching it for longer for more coverage, but polishing sites all say to use little and often, as this leaves less grease on the object. There was very little grease on the object. Freddy how long do you touch the rouge for? Is there a lot of green compound on the wheel when you polish? -The softer wheels used for the blue compound and pink compound would get very little compound on them when touched to the compounds. They still did appear to work however, and all 3 wheels had black marks on them. -All the polishing sites recommend to change the angle used from the previous polishing step to "erase" any lines left. This helps to achieve a factory finish. -The guides don't mention to wipe or wash any residue left from the previous compound, but I had a soft cloth handy and wiped any black residue left from the compound before proceeding onto the next compound. I don't know if this affects the polishing quality or not, but I didn't seem to experience any difference. These compounds helped me achieve the best results by far when it comes to polishing. I've tried a lot of others, Brasso, Silvo, Mothers Mag & Alu, Cape Cod, other paste polishes but the green compound alone beat all of these! I believe they're also good value for money, I have no idea how long these will last, or how many bracelets they can do, but buying larger bars work out cheaper in the long run, and the results speak for themselves. If any EU members are interested which vendor I purchased all the stuff from, please PM me and I'll be happy to give the info and details on the products. The above is a rough guide on a small experiment, but I'm going to do a bracelet soon and I will be making a detailed guide (as soon as I get more time ) Hope you found the above info useful.

Thank you Freddy and Chief. Freddy, I'll definitely will be considering the bench vise option, I'll have a look on ebay for a suitable vise. Chief, the Horotec one is very good, its machined very well. However as you pointed out, the aluminium dies found on other presses such as Bergeon would likely marr the AR coating, but the delrin dies do sound very good. I'll also try, as both avitt and yourself suggested, rotate the case a few times and press, it might definitely help with evening out the crystal.

Thanks Freddy, I'm going to give it a go soon and post my results. BTW nice Daytona's Which one is your favourite?

I bought various polishing compounds to help me in my quest to attain a factory mirror finish. Theres usually 4 steps required to polish stainless steel to a mirror finish. Each of these compounds requires a particular type of mop and from what I read, its best to use one mop for one compound. The question I have is; is cleaning either via an ultrasonic, or soap and water necessary between switching compounds and mops? I've read several polishing guides and they don't mention cleaning between the polishing steps, but I was thinking, won't the residue from the previous step (made up of a paste of compound used and fragments of steel) then transfer onto the new mop and then consequently onto the new compound when you re-apply more compound on the wheel? This is sort of like mixing the compounds isn't it? The only thing the guide mentions about cleaning is, once you've completely finished, apply some Vienna Lime to a soft cloth and wipe the object, this removes all the grease and excess compound.

Yes lume is greeny, but you can always get it re-lumed A stunning watch in person however.

Welcome to RWG Gobin, you better let your wife safeguard your wallet Otherwise its going to get empty before you know it.

Ok I've decided to purchase another crystal press tool, and I'm thinking of either of the two below. The First tool costs about

Thanks for the response guys Yes I think part of the problem is that this crystal is so damn difficult to seat properly, its very difficult to get it to sit evenly. I will try the tip on applying gradual pressure. I understand that the nylon dies may flex during pressing, but the aluminium dies are surely more likely to marr AR coatings? Thanks Nanuq, I'll keep this in mind I got it from ebay, and yes I think this tool was originally made in India, as are a lot of the inexpensive tools. BB? Can you point me to this manufacturer? Thanks.

I've been practicing installing and removing the crystal for the last hour on my SOH. I plan to send this crystal of for double AR coating through Chieftang. I've been having trouble getting an even press of the crystal into the case. I must have now pressed and removed 30 times, and all 30 times the crystal is slanted towards one end, thus not an even fit. I have one of these crystal presses, and I am using a hollow die to press the crystal in: One thing I am noticing is that it is extremely difficult for this SOH crystal to lay evenly on the case before it is pressed in. This crystal sure is tricky. Do any members have any tips to ensure an even press?

I'm sure this is regularly experienced by UK and EU members, but have you guys noticed that Paypal are using some ridiculous exchange rates when sending or receiving money in USD. Just an hour ago, I received some money in USD. After the conversion, I calculated the exchange rate used by Paypal to be $1.45 to

Nice watch J, looks good on your wrist. A fine choice as your beater, I can honestly say I would be content in wearing this daily as well. Enjoy it Post some shots when you manage to get it on the steel as well

Its possible that the movement could be magnetized. In that case you need to either demagnetize it using a de-magnetizer, or take it to a watchsmith who will do it. The other possibility is that there is something wrong with the movement, which will require repair or a replacing. Others with more knowledge on movements can chime in. Best of luck in getting it sorted out, I know how it feels to receive a brand new problematic watch!

Lol I've been typing too many mis-types recently... First time I started a wrist check thread Thanks for the comments bro. Hows life?

Thanks R... Nice Top Gun btw Thanks BT, thats a beauty you got there too Theres something about these rugged sports chronos which has been catching my eye lately...

My first ever wrist check topic, what are you guys wearing today. Heres what I've got on now: