DemonSlayer

Nice job Francisco, I love reading these how-to's. One question, why does the rotor have to be removed before removing the movement from the case?

Domenico does great work with fast turnover time. My Slevin has been with Rocketeer for around 7 weeks for crystal fix/repair and day/date wheels installation. I sent him an email (via his customer portal) on 14th April asking how the repair is going, or if he had any issues with the wheels installation (as the watchmaker who serviced it couldn't fit them on). I've not heard anything from Rocketeer at all. One of my UPO's which I sent in for modding to Domenico, was finished within 4 or 5 days of him receiving it: BEFORE AFTER

Got this one for a bargain, but it nearly didn't fit I'm really liking the modern/futuristic design.

Wheels and compounds are way better at polishing than Cape cod. I swear by compounds and wheels ever since I got them. All the other chemical stuff is stored away and occasionally used for small touch ups on case parts etc.

At the moment I have two; BCE V3 graphite and V3 black dial Skyland. The AR on the BCE kills the Skyland AR, but I prefer the look of the bracelet and dial on the Skyland. So unfortunately due to that, and shortage of money the BCE will be up for sale shortly.

I spotted this yesterday, reported it to e-bay but looks like they weren't successful in pulling the listing (not that they care).

You need to find where the watch markets are located, the markets where our GZ based dealers get their stuff from. The locations can be found through googling... . I would do what Ken mentioned, link up with a GZ based dealer, they'll take you to the good stuff.

Another red here as well, we just scored!!! Wear the Ebel, I'm loving the look of that watch at the moment

Going with the mighty Skyland today, tomorrow and the day after:

You have a quartz dial as triplehd has already pointed out, but even if you had gotten the automatic version, I still think that the date window won't align. The date window position for a21J and ETA is different, at least in my experience. For that to work you would have to glue a datewheel overlay and position it properly so that the date can be seen through the date window. Beautiful Omega btw, I'm now in two minds about whether I prefer the 2531 (Bond) or this 2254.

Laz, I just did a check on ebay, apparantly there is a gen blue seamaster rubber strap! But its a baby blue: light blue gen smp rubber And heres the standard generic smp rubber strap: generic smp blue rubber strap

Unfortunately not I "borrowed" the pic of a member on watchuseek. I need to have a look into this model more closely

Check out this amazing rubber combo for the 2254.50 A very planet ocean like rubber strap! Looks amazing!

I don't know the ins and outs of the replica biz and how it goes down in GZ, but I have read something about the older A7750's having low failure rates than the latest ones produced from the manufacturers. It could be that the people who have reported no issues received the good batch A7750's, and the ones who have reported issues, received the freshly produced problematic A7750's. Do a search over on RWI on Fakemasters A7750 posts. Some interesting information...

I recently got a V3 Skyland, black dial. Build quality is amazing, esp for the price! The AR is probably a bit too blue, I've read that the V2 has better quality AR, and it does seem to appear so in the pics. I've been fortunate in that all A7750's I've owned I've never had a problem with one.

I like the classic look of that black dial but those huge numbers on the bezel insert seem off putting to me. I've never seen a gen in the flesh so I could ofcourse change my mind about that. Though I'm not usually a fan of blue dials, I'm smitten by the 2531 at the moment!

Wayward, are getting hold of ETA clone movements easy? Can our dealers source spare movements?

Is it a screw-down crown? If so then I personally think that over time the threads will see some wear. I could be wrong of course, it most probably depends on how well the crown and tube are manufactured.

I personally think that watches (both gens and our reps) were designed to be adjusted every once in a while, such as a date change or when we need to re-adjust the time again for reasons such as enough seconds have been either gained or lost resulting in minutes lost or gained. Most people who wear gens only have the one (at least the ones I know) and so parts such as the crown see very little use. This will definitely increase crown/tube thread life. The only thing to watch out for regarding A7750's as far as I know is not to change the date between 10:00pm and 2:00am, or somewhere near that range. I don't think adjusting the time is detrimental to the movement, but I would read Watchdog's numerous reviews/posts on the A7750 just to be sure.

Thanks for the awesome response bro. I must say that upon further thinking and after seeing that amazing wristshot of the gen, it has to be the Discovery why no love for the Discovery Jeff? I think the perfect white dialled Rolex is the Explorer II, but the rep dial unfortunately doesn't do it any justice. The Omega Aqua Terra is such a classy watch, but I'm smitten by the Discovery Hmm interesting view with the white dial and leather. I've never worn a pure white dialled watch on steel before, I wonder if I will share the same feelings I think the Ebel Discovery holds the top spot at the moment. I feel like I've worn enough Roman numeral Rolex watches now need to take a little break from them. I found them especially hard to read in low light conditions. I'll check the AP out, ever since I bought a cheap chrono quartz AP (but well made) I've had a bit of a soft spot for them. It fit my wrist perfectly like the Nautilus.

Left dial is the gen? If so I can see that the "A" in automatic is not printed well. If thats what you meant then you will need to have someone such as a dial restorer fix it.

Thanks for the responses guys, but this caseback is far too tight for duct tape. Duct tape is in fact my primary method for opening casebacks, but this one will require a tool.

Nothing quite like that satisfying feeling when you do a successful mod all by yourself I miss that feeling..

Which of these two tools is the better one at opening the UPO caseback? I'm looking for one that is durable in that the bits won't easily break, and that slippage doesn't occur easily. Thanks in advance for any input.