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Bond 653x Homage Complete


Ronin

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A few weeks ago I posted some pics from my bench of my sterile dial homage to the Bond 653x Rolex. Since this is one of a kind, no worries about the finer "Rolex details".

The project is complete!!! My first. Scroll through the pics, and at the bottom you will find additional details. Enjoy!

I call this my 653.09D. 653 for tribute, 09 for 2009. D for date. (My own homebrew "Kingston" kinda sorta...)

Bench / Build Shots:

86p1000038.jpg

86p1000036.jpg

86p1000041.jpg

9p1000064.jpg

9p1000063.jpg

9p1000068.jpg

Pearl is WM (Watch Material)

9p1000070.jpg

Gen Swiss ETA-2836-2 "bubble pack" from Ofrei. Keeping COSC (or close to it) on the winder

9p1000061.jpg

NOT Photo Shopped. Camera Exposure set to 15seconds f3.3 ISO 80 4.1mm 25mm

I lucked out that the hands lume matched the dial. The WM Pearl is a bit softer.

9p1000073lume.jpg

Wrist and Fun Shots:

9p1000091.jpg

9p1000084.jpg

w/Bond's Beretta pre-Walther

9p1000097.jpg

9p1000099.jpg

Details-Parts / Sources / Cost:

  • Case - Rolex Rep Case (Silix Style) - originally purchased as complete 6536 rep from member Seafoam - $60
  • Crown / Tube - Sterile Rolex Replacement Crown - Ofrei - $15
  • Pearl - Watch Material WM - $10
  • Insert - from original case/rep
  • Dial - from Seiko-Citizens trading forum - $15
  • Hands - eWatchparts $15 x 2 = $30
  • ETA Movevment - Ofrei - $138
  • 18mm Corvus Bond RAF strap - $40
    Project Total - $308.00
    Project Hours - 8
    (Left over parts include Rolex 6536 Rep Dial, 21J Movement, Rolex Rep Crown/tube)


    Tips / Tricks / Lessons I learned:
    Ok. Now for the learn from my mistakes and experience time. In particular order, just some random musings.
    • Hands - Trying to paint "White" over Glit, was a failure for me. So I opted for the silver seconds hand instead to obtain the look. If I were to attempt the white hand-- I would order a red yachtmaster hand for ETA, strip the paint, then paint with airbrush. The other issue in attempting the white hand was then having to relume it since chances are good the lume will get stripped, or paint on it.
    • Hands II - A bad assumption on my part, I figured the hour hand would have a "positive stop" when pressing on. I was wrong, and my first press of the hour hand had it touching the dial. Yikes. LESSON LEARNED: press hour hand while watching closely under the loupe. Stop when you have the desired clearance, or in my case with ETA when the top of the hour hand was flush with the top of the hour wheel pinion. Tools: I simply used my Bergeon Presto Puller and 7404-2 presser. To press the second hand on I recommend Ubi's Dumb-Dumb Sucker stick.
    • Pearl - The rep pearl was crap plastic. A more accurate vintage pearl would not work because it was too small for the hole already in the insert. The WM pearl was too big. TRICK: To fit the WM pearl I used a 3mmx.60 tap to slowly open the hole a bit bigger. Actually, just used the tip of the tap to ream the hole bigger. To prevent loss of the pearl, I also used a small amount of JB Weld Epoxy on the back side.
    • GS Hypo Cement - I used this to glue the insert and crystal. It did the job but I am not sold on it. My weak-link from a water proofing perspective is the crystal to the case.
    • Cutting the Stem - Surprisingly this was easy for me. Only took 2 cuts to get it right. I think the Rolex style screw down made it easier. My shortcut is, TIP: 1.) Screw on crown to uncut stem and insert into cased movement. 2.) Using my caliper I measured the distance from the tube to the start of the threads on the crown. (2.5mm) in my case. 3.) Then I measured how much squish/push the traditional Rolex screw-down crown had. About another 1mm. So I figured I needed to cut 3.5mm off the stem. 4.) Went conservative with my first cut and stuck with 2.5mm. This put the crown threads just touching the tube. Pushing it in would allow it "screw-down", but I was still a bit far away from the case when the crown bottomed on the top of the tube. 5.) Nipped off about .5mm and filed it a little bit. Viola! I used Loctite 290 on the stem to crown for final installation.
    • Bezel - This Bi-Directional Bezel was very stiff with a very metal-on-metal feeling. TRICK: I used a little bit of Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly on the groove the tension wire rides in. Viola, smoother and easier to turn.

    Future Modifications (maybe):

    [*]Reseal Crystal to case. Right now it water resistant to about 1 BAR. Safe to wash hands, or get caught in rain, and possibly ford a river. I am reluctant to swim, dive, shower (pressure) with it.[*]Locate a BIGGER sterile crown. Would love to find an 8mm Sterile Crown/Tube.[*]White Seconds hand[*]Sterile Bracelet

    THANKS FOR LOOKING!

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FYI - Updated the OP with the following.

Tips / Tricks / Lessons I learned:

Ok. Now for the learn from my mistakes and experience time. In particular order, just some random musings.

  • Hands - Trying to paint "White" over Glit, was a failure for me. So I opted for the silver seconds hand instead to obtain the look. If I were to attempt the white hand-- I would order a red yachtmaster hand for ETA, strip the paint, then paint with airbrush. The other issue in attempting the white hand was then having to relume it since chances are good the lume will get stripped, or paint on it.
  • Hands II - A bad assumption on my part, I figured the hour hand would have a "positive stop" when pressing on. I was wrong, and my first press of the hour hand had it touching the dial. Yikes. LESSON LEARNED: press hour hand while watching closely under the loupe. Stop when you have the desired clearance, or in my case with ETA when the top of the hour hand was flush with the top of the hour wheel pinion. Tools: I simply used my Bergeon Presto Puller and 7404-2 presser. To press the second hand on I recommend Ubi's Dumb-Dumb Sucker stick.
  • Pearl - The rep pearl was crap plastic. A more accurate vintage pearl would not work because it was too small for the hole already in the insert. The WM pearl was too big. TRICK: To fit the WM pearl I used a 3mmx.60 tap to slowly open the hole a bit bigger. Actually, just used the tip of the tap to ream the hole bigger. To prevent loss of the pearl, I also used a small amount of JB Weld Epoxy on the back side.
  • GS Hypo Cement - I used this to glue the insert and crystal. It did the job but I am not sold on it. My weak-link from a water proofing perspective is the crystal to the case.
  • Cutting the Stem - Surprisingly this was easy for me. Only took 2 cuts to get it right. I think the Rolex style screw down made it easier. My shortcut is, TIP: 1.) Screw on crown to uncut stem and insert into cased movement. 2.) Using my caliper I measured the distance from the tube to the start of the threads on the crown. (2.5mm) in my case. 3.) Then I measured how much squish/push the traditional Rolex screw-down crown had. About another 1mm. So I figured I needed to cut 3.5mm off the stem. 4.) Went conservative with my first cut and stuck with 2.5mm. This put the crown threads just touching the tube. Pushing it in would allow it "screw-down", but I was still a bit far away from the case when the crown bottomed on the top of the tube. 5.) Nipped off about .5mm and filed it a little bit. Viola! I used Loctite 290 on the stem to crown for final installation.
  • Bezel - This Bi-Directional Bezel was very stiff with a very metal-on-metal feeling. TRICK: I used a little bit of Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly on the groove the tension wire rides in. Viola, smoother and easier to turn.
    Future Modifications (maybe):
    • Reseal Crystal to case. Right now it water resistant to about 1 BAR. Safe to wash hands, or get caught in rain, and possibly ford a river. I am reluctant to swim, dive, shower (pressure) with it.
    • Locate a BIGGER sterile crown. Would love to find an 8mm Sterile Crown/Tube.
    • White Seconds hand
    • Sterile Bracelet
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I bought one of these unbranded oyster bands for my MKII mini exploder:

http://cgi.ebay.com/20MM-STEEL-BAND-BRACELET-FOR-ROLEX-MEN-SUBMARINER-WATCH_W0QQitemZ250560104661QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a568bc8d5

For $16 it's not too bad- solid mid-links but who cares.

rsz_p1000200_-_copy.jpg

But I do prefer it on the brown croc strap...., you just can't wear a strap when you're out sweating and gettin!

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