BK V3 Black Sub has landed

[Star69]

thanks !

must be nice to have a new toy

i keep my V2 too ..... the weakpoint on mine is the tiny movement ...

its at the moment for complete service - must be an used old movement.

this is a long therm project ... if i see chep gen parts i drop them in

cheers,

Frank

[rolexmaniac88]

On mine V3 the Gen Insert is loose

On my V2 Case the shaved gen Insert snaps in.

I also installed a gen Crystal and gen Tube and Crown on it.

For this small difference in Crown height it's not worth to Mod the

V3. As i told before I installed the 2824 in my V2 with no problem.

Will Post some Pics of this one the days.

So if i hear you correctly, the V3 would need a gen insert and gen bezel assembly to be good (except for the problem with the recess between the crown guards)

Does anyone have a clue about what is the price of a gen bezel and where to get one? Plus, what do we need exactly in order to put the bezel? Do we need the whole bezel assembly. Can someone please explain? I would really appreciate it (got a V3 on the way).

BTW, how come the crown guards seems much shorter on the V2 than on the V3? Which is correct ? I am referring to the lenght of the crown guards.

Thanks

[By-Tor]

thanks !

must be nice to have a new toy

i keep my V2 too ..... the weakpoint on mine is the tiny movement ...

its at the moment for complete service - must be an used old movement.

this is a long therm project ... if i see chep gen parts i drop them in

cheers,

Frank

Frank (and others),

do you know if this small movement is possible to replace with a standard ETA (if it ever breaks)... or do you have to source an identical small ETA? My v2 is a permanent keeper so it'd be nice to know.

[Daniel197880]

Frank (and others),

do you know if this small movement is possible to replace with a standard ETA (if it ever breaks)... or do you have to source an identical small ETA? My v2 is a permanent keeper so it'd be nice to know.

BK told me that a 2836 will fit in a v2.

[klocklind1]

Frank (and others),

do you know if this small movement is possible to replace with a standard ETA (if it ever breaks)... or do you have to source an identical small ETA? My v2 is a permanent keeper so it'd be nice to know.

As Daniel197880 said, the eta 2836-2 will ( BK told me this to!) fit BUT You need new hands because the hands are DIFFERENT size on the small movement and the 2836-2/2824-2.

And I think You will need another movementholder ring to fit the bigger 2836-2 movement in the case!????

[Tribal]

Yes a Eta 2836 will fit.

The 2876 is a workhorse and will work for a long time.

Btw the 2824 fit the V2 Case also.

[klocklind1]

Yes a Eta 2836 will fit.

The 2876 is a workhorse and will work for a long time.

Btw the 2824 fit the V2 Case also.

Thanks Tribal!

What about the 0,45mm in difference of hight ?

Will the tubeposition be the right in the V2 case when using a 2824-2, do You need to do some modding for it to fit ?

Is the V1-1,5 sub WM9 be the same as the V2 exept for the crownguard is better on the V2 ?

[perry563]

I have the V3 and just sold my V2. The V3 looks and feels like the better watch. Its a very well finished rep sub and the best I have ever owned IMO.

[perry563]

I am in the midst of selling most of my sub collection in part because this V3 sub is that good. I finally have a sub that is so close to gen that I am close to 100% satisfied.

[bklm1234]

@by-tor: yes 2836-2 fit into the v2. I did a couple of 2836-2's in v2.

While 2824-2 can fit into the v2 case and 2836-2/2678-2 fit into the v3 case, I'm not so for it. The reason is while the crown stem can go through the crown hole and snaps on to the movement, there's a certain stress on the stem as well as on the movement because the stem cannot be entirely straight and free from the wall of the tube hole. When I assembled the first YM, I gave the dial and datewheel overlay extra clearance to make sure the datewheel didn't get obstructed when turning, which essentially lowered the movement's hole in relationship to the crown hole. While I could snap the stem on the movement through the tube hole, the stem was basically bent and stressed (so was the movement). The crown stem felt very stiff to turn for one thing. As I turned the minute hand over and over to test the advancement of the dates (I turned through the entire 31 dates), the movement gave out. My point is there's a reason v3 uses 2824-2, v2 uses 2678-2/2836-2. We don't want to exceed the tolerance of the movement hole and the tube hole alignment. I have seen 2824-2 used in the good old MBW. The crown stem also felt very stiff. It was very hard to refit the stem back to the movement through the tube hole. For longevity of the movements, I don't recommend 2824-2 in v2, 2678-2/2836-2 in v3.

As for the bezel, it's really variance in the parts. I installed several gen inserts. Some installed tighter with sure/tight snapping, some installed without any snapping. The variance isn't big to the point you see a gap on bigger bezels. You have to use glue on them. In fact, I always use glue (shoe glue) on all gen inserts - not fun to lose a $150 part.

As for the shape/profile of the bezel, variance exists on gen too. Which profile is correct? Generally speaking, you want to see a thick and significant bottom portion which the v3 bezel has. The top portion should not be too slanted/slopped down which the v3 bezel also is pretty good. On older v2, the bezel top portion slants down way too much. Now the teeth. No rep bezel to date, except for one short period for the MBW bezel, has long enough teeth. Perry you have one MBW that has that bezel with sufficiently long and near-perfectly shapped teeth, like this this old MBW I used to have

The v3 bezel, or no other bezel can compare to this MBW bezel.

v3 bezel is measured 39.90mm. If they lengthen the bezel teeth by .01mm, we have a perfect bezel, and exactly 40mm in diameter. Something to wish for.

-bk

Edited January 29, 2010 by bklm1234

[stilty]

My understanding is the new V3 is machined for a gen 3135, correct? As well as the new upcoming SD.

So if this is the case (no pun intended), then the stem position on the V3 and SD will be 1.75mm. (1.75mm is the stem position on a genuine 3135 movement) This measurement is center stem to dial seat (back of dial).

On a 2824-2 the stem position is 1.80mm.

On a 2836-2 the stem position is 2.25mm.

So anyone attempting to install a 2836-2 in a V3 case is going to have problems with the stem binding and eventually snapping. This will cause stress and eventual failure on the movement. That is to say, if the case is in fact machined for a 3135 movement. If it is machined for a 3135, then the absolute best movement to use would be the ETA 2892-A2. The 2892-A2 stem position is 1.50mm. Use my movement holder which has a built in spacer for stem alignment and you will have perfectly aligned stem. This will also give you 0.25mm of clearance between the dial and movement. Just enough to glue in a genuine date disc. The 2824-2 will work in a gen spec case, but the tolerances are very, very tight. In fact your stem will be 0.05mm off center.

As for fitting the 2824-2 in a V2, should be no problem. Just as long as there is a shim or spacer of 0.45mm between the dial and 2824-2. I have movement holders to fit a 2824-2 in a 3035 case. they have built in spacer to align the stem. If there is no spacer, your stem will bind and eventually snap as the stem will not be aligned with the tube hole. it is easy to retro fit 2824-2 into a V2, just not the other way around.

Hope this helps.

[perry563]

Bk

Just sold that watch unfortunatly. Tough losing ones job in this lousey economy.

[Tribal]

On mine V2 Case is a gen Tube installed and I tested if the the stem is centered.

So there is no trouble in stressing the movement at all.

Maybe a effect of the new designed movement holder.

[gtanak]

Sorry to dig up an old thread. Just wondering about the conclusion. Is V3 >> V2 out of box but it loses out on ability to accept gen parts? Thanks guys

[d-rock]

AWESOME THREAD !!!

Thanks goes out to all who contributed.

(and yes, I'm fully aware of the date this thread was started.)

................thanx, Star.

[Ruprekt]

Sounds like nit-picking to me. I just got the V3, and it's a pretty awesome watch. You start splitting millimeters and your being ridiculous. A woman in your life might help too.

[By-Tor]

Sounds like nit-picking to me. I just got the V3, and it's a pretty awesome watch. You start splitting millimeters and your being ridiculous. A woman in your life might help too.

What was the point of this post, and why did you post the insulting remark in the last sentence?

Then tell me what's wrong about one of our best 16610 experts posting his objective, informative opinions about the different versions?

[Ruprekt]

What was the point of this post, and why did you post the insulting remark in the last sentence?

Then tell me what's wrong about one of our best 16610 experts posting his objective, informative opinions about the different versions?

The point was oblivious. Sorry my post failed to make it's point to you. Picking apart the minute inaccuracies of the best rep Sub out there is informative? How about enjoying the watch your lucky enough to have? No insult intended in the woman comment. Humor, eh? And expressing my opinion is what I did the first time. Clear to you now?

[perry563]

"The point was oblivious. Sorry my post failed to make it's point to you. Picking apart the minute inaccuracies of the best rep Sub out there is informative? How about enjoying the watch your lucky enough to have? No insult intended in the woman comment. Humor, eh? And expressing my opinion is what I did the first time. Clear to you now?"

If you have not discovered already "picking apart the minute inaccuracies" is what is mostly done on this forum.

Without such critiques the rep industry would still be in the dark ages. An informed customer base pushes all dealers to sell the best. This in turn pushes the factories to make better watches and so forth. By-Tor is one of the most informed posters on this board and he desreves a good level of respect.

[panerai153]

Sounds like nit-picking to me. I just got the V3, and it's a pretty awesome watch. You start splitting millimeters and your being ridiculous. A woman in your life might help too.

I'm sure that at times we all think we are picking nits, however to all of us who mod watches, the information that is posted is very valuable. it's always better to find out beforehand that something you were planning to do just won't work, or it will work, but it is so compromised the watch/movement, etc. that the longevity and or accuracy is seriously impaired.

I have a v3, and it's absolutely my favorite non vintage Rolex. I have a couple of genuine parts on it, and have a genuine bezel assembly on the way.

I see what the posters are talking about the case having too much material removed between the crown guards. Does it worry me? No, because I believe that it's so small a difference it's indiscernible. Will I try to work around it? Possibly if I get around to installing a genuine Crown/tube. Some of the difference can be made up by seating the tube out a fraction more. Unfortunately, this is a great watch right out the box, but it does have a few flaws, as does every single rep ever produced. Fortunately they are minor, and the quality and correctness of the watch more than make up for the flaws. As far as modding, unless you have a bunch of Rolex parts lying around that you bought pretty cheap, it's not a good value to mod this one very much. this was all covered in a thread from a few days ago where a member was gong to put a 3135 movement in his v3. When all the costs were added up for the mods he was contemplating, he was within a thousand dollars of a genuine.

I appreciate the contribution that all who have examined their v2's and V's and contributed to our knowledge base. You sir, unfortunately don't fall into that category.

[marrickvilleboy]

"The point was oblivious. Sorry my post failed to make it's point to you. Picking apart the minute inaccuracies of the best rep Sub out there is informative? How about enjoying the watch your lucky enough to have? No insult intended in the woman comment. Humor, eh? And expressing my opinion is what I did the first time. Clear to you now?"

If you have not discovered already "picking apart the minute inaccuracies" is what is mostly done on this forum.

Without such critiques the rep industry would still be in the dark ages. An informed customer base pushes all dealers to sell the best. This in turn pushes the factories to make better watches and so forth. By-Tor is one of the most informed posters on this board and he desreves a good level of respect.

Each person is entitled to their opinions on this board - to the majority of collectors - a couple of millimeters may not mean anything but to others they may everything.

I think Ruprekt was advising we should all take a step back and look at this hobby within a larger picture - life certainly has alot more to offer than nitpicking on replica watches - perhaps he's right?

Lastly, someone's seniority within this forum shouldn't deter others from stating their views.

Thanks for the review Tribal

[perry563]

Each person is entitled to their opinions on this board - to the majority of collectors - a couple of millimeters may not mean anything but to others they may everything.

I think Ruprekt was advising we should all take a step back and look at this hobby within a larger picture - life certainly has alot more to offer than nitpicking on replica watches - perhaps he's right?

Lastly, someone's seniority within this forum shouldn't deter others from stating their views.

Thanks for the review Tribal

Nobody including myself is saying anyone should not post their opinions/views. The point is that insults should not also be included. Every rep watch forum is dedicated to discussing the pluses and minuses of specific rep watches. Its because of these very specific discussions that rep watches are what they are today.

[d-rock]

Wishing a safe and Happy Holiday Season to all.

[Ike73]

Where can I buy this?