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Trying to figure out a Tudor 9411 build


asf

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So i've been bitten by the 9411 bug. I've been thinking about putting it together in an affordable manner.

Yuki Dial/handset

josh 1680? or should I go yuki case?

If I go josh's 1680, I could use the movement in there if I got the swiss version and use the wrong kind of date wheel until I get another.

if I went yuki case, I'd get a 2824-2 movement to go in it. Would I need to snip off the dial feet of the yuki dial if I were to use the 2824-2?

Moreover, id need to get the gen crown/tube correct?

Id get a clarks crystal (125?)

And use a rep bracelet.

Hows this sound so far?

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Hmmmmm...

I'd say avoid using any 1680 case as the dial for a 1680 measures 26.5; a 9411 dial measures 26mm. With a 26.5mm aperture, the dial will likely not have enough case lip to seat against.

For movement, go with a 2783 or 2784 if you can find one. The 2784 is what the gen uses, and will allow you to use the dial without cutting dial feet. The datewheel also lines up perfect. The 2783 is the same except in lower beat rate. Still usable, in my opinion and you can sometimes find these cheap. I used to pick them up for $20 a piece ;)

Wish I would have known you were going to do one of these! I just gave away a gen 25-125 crystal!

Doh!

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I agree the 2873-74 is the route to go. I just went over to Ebay, and nothing on there right now, but if you check frequently, you will find one.The 2873 is cheaper. the 9411/0 is a great watch.

Here is mine. The lumi pearl has been replaced with a tritium, which gets it back to the same shape as the day it left the Tudor Factory.

9411-04.jpg

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I must have typed in something wrong, I just did a search on Ebay "2783" and got 35 hits . several watches, a whole bunch of movements, mostly selling as "For repair or parts" , but the watches looked OK. i bought a 2783 a year or two ago and it came out of a Certina. Got a few hits under "2784" ,only a couple of watches, both Tudors and the prices are too high for a movement. Keep looking I'm sure you will find something pretty quickly.

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OK you said "on a budget" I built a very credible Tudor date Sub from a rep 1680. I had the dial redone sucessfully by International Dial in blue along w/ the date wheel in red. Add a rep blue insert aged a bit & have the caseback engraved. JMB provided a lovely fliplok Tudor Sub bracelet & not a "super-franken" but a credible Tudor Sub none the less...Regards, mcotter

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OK you said "on a budget" I built a very credible Tudor date Sub from a rep 1680. I had the dial redone sucessfully by International Dial in blue along w/ the date wheel in red. Add a rep blue insert aged a bit & have the caseback engraved. JMB provided a lovely fliplok Tudor Sub bracelet & not a "super-franken" but a credible Tudor Sub none the less...Regards, mcotter

Just out of curiosity, Do you have pics of your Tudor Sub and would like to see the engraved caseback if you did have it engraved.

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  • 11 months later...

There's a Phong Snowflake for sale right now, around $700-ish. For $100 more you're getting a MUCH better case, correct caseback, and far better dial and hands. Plus his date font has very accurate small serifs. I spent near $1,100 on a couple cheaper builds before I finally bit the bullet and did it right. Sometimes you gotta spend more to save a lot. At least I do.

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I agree that the MBW 5513 case works great. Built a super-franken Tudor Sub and a franken sub with those.

While the caseback isn't correct, the Yuki and Phongs aren't correct either....Sure, they have the same profile and the right words but the way they are etched into the case, the fonts, everything about them is really bad. Having owned many real Tudor subs, I personally can't find that to be appealing at all. NOt to mention the whole ethical thing I have about selling fakes as real watches. With an MBW that isn't possible so for someone who really understands a tudor sub so the one that I sold outright and didn't break up can't be passed off as a gen.

With these cases with...ahem...correct casebacks, those can be passed off easier to a less versed person trying to get a Tudor Sub.

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  • 2 weeks later...

E, for a Snowflake there are some exact measurements for them to be right. Yes, unfortunately, I've spent a LOT of time looking at them.

The tip of the hours hand just touches the 6 and 9 markers. It's a small tip that extends past the diamond, unlike Yuki's long tip. The width of the tip should appear narrower than the width of its shaft.

The minutes hand just extends to the back end of those markers and its body is slightly narrower than the hours hand.

The diamond of the seconds hand is bisected at its widest point by the outer edge of the 6 and 9 markers. It also has a long tail on its opposite end.

Checking the 'bay here are some that look pretty good, though I wish the minutes hand shaft was slightly narrower: item #170700711490

Here are mine:

snowflake_dome3.jpg

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I was looking at the measurements and going back to the hands I had before from the parts I sold and comparing them to Yuki's and it looks like Yuki's seconds hand is perfect for most dials(Raffles included) but the length of the minute hand is almost a full mm longer. I guess hybrid is the way to go and then color match.

Thanks for the link Nanuq.

BTW, we are finally getting your kind of weather in NY ;)

E

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Yep, hybrid all the way. It's embarrassing how much time I spent looking at Snowflake hands online to come up with the right blend. :blush:

You're getting some winter weather? Nice! It's been a wild winter here, five storms with 100-120mph winds, PILES and PILES of snow, humongous drifts, and now nasty cold for the last month. Raahhhrrrrrrr!!!! Put on the Ride of the Valkyries and let's go!

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