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Gen Dial and hands question?


danza1812

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Quite often I'll just glue the dial spacer to the bottom of the dial. Once it is in the case and the case-clamps are tightened it's not going anywhere...

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"1 more quicky - are the tiny sticky Dial pads the best thing to attach the dial to the movement?"

Sticky dial pads aka 'Dial Dots' are basically Ok for cheapo quartz watches and lost cause emergency repairs but not really suitable to use on watches with screw down crowns or watches with much room between the movement/movement spacer and case because Dial Dots allow sideways movement. When you screw a spring loaded crown down or pull the crown out to time setting position (when there is room for the dial or movement to move), the movement and/or dial may slide out of place and allow the hour wheel tube or hour hand hub to be pulled against the dial hole, stopping the watch...while scratching the outer edge of the dial.

Gluing the dial to the calendar spacer on Eta 2824/36/46 is usually the best method like JMB said. Sometimes you can glue 'platform' type dial feet to a dial and use them to hold the dial to the movement but you must have room for the small platform (washer) that attaches the dial foot to the dial and you have to use very strong cement of some sort. Superglue does not work very well because it is too brittle.

Something else about superglue is that it raises fingerprints and if there is a fingerprint on a dial etc and superglue vapor gets to it...the fingerprint becomes permanent, just like on CSI.

On watches with tight clearances between the dial, movement/movement spacer, and the case...you might get by Ok with dial dots as long as the watch uses movement/case clamps and screws that hold the movement securely in place. Dial Dots work in this situation only because there is not enough room for the dial/movement to slide around...providing there is enough tension from the case clamps/screws.

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Please can somebody recommend where I can get hold of some slightly aged Rolex submariner hands to fit the eta movement?

White seems to be easy but my gen dial has a slightly creamy/yellow patina, I'd Luke to try to match the hands as best I can (although im aware I'll never get an exact match)

Wso sells them but they are $50!

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You have 2 choices for ETA/Sub hands - standard rep hands or hands made for Tudor Subs (which are ETA-powered, so will fit most ETA movements). However, I have only seen these types of hands sold with white lume. It is relatively easy to change lume color. Check out the pinned articles here & use the Search feature.

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i bought a pair of ETA hands from Yuki and still waiting on those. They seem to have that creamy color to them. I'm using those in the Tudor sub build. Not a bad price and should fit the bill. You can always do the coffee tric on the ones you have.

E

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I've ordered some yuki yellowy Tudor hands, I'll see how they look.

Anyone got a tip or pictures of how to glue the dial to the spacer ring making sure it's centred correctly? I'd hate to get it wrong! Also what's the best type of for work inside the case?

Thanks in advance.

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I put the spacer on, then the dial and with a toothpick add contact cement to the outer rim. Make sure it is even all around first. I am sure there are better techniques and procedures. The trick is ensuring proper alignment. If you want to use one of those dial dots to help you until the glue is set, it would not be a bad idea.

E

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I've had a lot of issues with dial tape. I had to replace the 21j GMT movement in a rep I ordered as it was DOA. Ordered one from CousinsUK but found when I removed the dial that it had no feet. The dial spacer however meant that I had to layer up the dial tape 3-4 times in order to get it stuck to the dial. Using a GMT movement also means that you can't put dial tape on opposite sides but only on the topside of the dial (near 12 o'clock) and so when I go to install it all the dial has a tendency to move about. Compounding the issues in this build are other factors. The hand canons seem too short for the rep dial spacer and the GMT hand will rub the dial if installed, but if I use the included dial spacer the stem height is wrong as well! At the moment the watch is sitting with no forseable solution any time soon. Very frustrating.

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The dial spacer however meant that I had to layer up the dial tape 3-4 times in order to get it stuck to the dial.

The hand canons seem too short for the rep dial spacer and the GMT hand will rub the dial if installed, but if I use the included dial spacer the stem height is wrong as well!

I'm not clear on why you needed to layer the dial tape.

You don't say if the stem is too high or low. But what I have done is to take the spacer down, thin it out a bit, using emery cloth on a sanding block. I did it the tedious way, measure the thickness, take it down, measure, fit, remove, take it down a bit more, etc. It won't take much for the GMT hand to clear the dial, so the stem position will be your guiding factor.

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Other than crazy glue, what would work to glue the dial feet back to a dial? Just curious as I had the feet break off in a dial I need to use.No use for glue as the date wheel is not a ring, but a wheel.

E

I've been told to NEVER use 'Crazy Glue' or 'Super Glue' inside the case. The fumes are supposedly toxic to the movement. I use a 5 minute epoxy, and I cheat using an old movement body to line it up.

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